Starwriter

It will run slobbery rich.

That bike has been for sale for at least a year. Maybe 2. Has a lot of aftermarket parts, but it's sure ugly. Time to strip, repowder coat the frame, and recover the seat.

Measure the stroke with calipers. Read the number on top of the piston with a borescope. Don't have a borescope? Make friends with a local auto tech that has one. It's amazing what you can see inside a motor with one. It's even worth taking one with you when you're going to look at a bike you're thinking about buying.

Welcome to BHQ. Nice Banshee. Your English and grammar is actually better than a lot of people around here. LOL. Those carbs are actually 33mm PWK carbs. I can tell by the way they are bored below the center of the casting. They should be stamped S46 on the side. Perfect size for a stock cylinder, stock stroke bike.

Looks to me like the footpegs are moving up and down.

I have thought for a long time that if you're looking to shed every single pound, use the front master cylinder to activate the rear brake. The front master and line to the rear has got to weigh less than the rear master, pedal and associated brackets. Also, If you're buying titanium bolts to bolt on billet pieces that are heavier than the stock plastic parts, you're not sheding any weight. It would be interesting if someone would start a thread showing weight difference, + or -, between stock parts and aftermarket parts. Foot pegs, kicker, shifter, stator cover, water pump cover, rear reservoir, etc. What amazes me is guys that weigh 250 lbs and they take off the front brakes to "go faster".

If it's all stock and IT HAS A TITLE, I wouldn't give a dime over $400. If no title, not more than $150. If it has $1000 worth of aftermarket parts, I wouldn't pay more than $750.

I want a set of those bowls with the big jet change hole for my 35mm PWKs.

Yeah, here you go. Bid, win, "Bill me later". LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Yamaha-Banshee-Special-Edition-Brand-New-In-the-Crate-/281310886160?forcerrptr=true&hash=item417f6f7910&item=281310886160&pt=ATVs

Local gun shop?

Good job on getting it sorted out, but I am a bit skeptical that someone just put it together with the spring out of place like that. I'm thinking that the spring popped out of place for some other reason. There's supposed to be a white plastic bushing inside the spring. Is that missing? The tang on the shift shaft is supposed to have bumps on each side of the end to keep the spring from popping off. Are they both OK?

This is what it's supposed to look like. After you shift up or down, it should return to this position. That tang on the shift shaft should go between those 2 straight ends of the spring. Yours is out of whack somehow.

WTF? No, something is way out of whack. Your shift lever is in the down position. The shift shaft should be positioned so that the eccentric adjustment bolt is in the middle of the window in the shift shaft. Then you adjust the eccentric so that there is equal distance between the claws and the pins.

Where do these people live? The Ozark mountains? Get off the couch and go to your local stealership and lay cash on the counter. No paypal, no shipping charge, and sometimes no waiting.

If you're going to unbolt the rotors from the hubs, heat the bolts a little bit to soften the loctite, so you don't round out the allen heads.

Thomas put together about an $800 3rd party deal on some parts for me that are only available in Canada. He paid the seller for the parts with his own money and then let me paypal him the funds for the parts and shipping. He shipped them fast and everything arrived here in the US in perfect condition. He kept in constant communication with me and sent me pics of the parts. I couldn't have put this deal together by myself. I really appreciate him jumping right on this and getting it done. Thanks!!!!!!!!

Wow!! That's impressive. He spent a LOT of money building that.

Sell the Trinity crap on ebay and buy a decent head.

I found a VW valve head, a leatherman tool, and a digital watch out in the dunes.

Nice!!!! Post a pic.

https://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&ei=qJY_U96NBciWyAGVoYHgAg&q=metric+conversion&oq=metric&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.0.0l5.6204.16842.0.18854.21.17.4.8.11.4.1627.9249.3-5j0j5j4j0j1.15.0....0...1c.1.39.mobile-gws-hp..6.15.1666.3.zhIF_VzklfI

Dumb post of the day. Send your cylinders to a site sponsor and let them decide how far they need to be bored and let them supply the pistons. If you do it any other way, you're just wasting bore sizes.

WOW, never seen one that stuck.

Impact driver? The kind you smack with a hammer? That's not gonna do it. Or do you mean an air impact gun? That should do it, unless you bought it at Harbor Freight. I always just use a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar.

I ALWAYS check an ebay sellers feedback before I bid. 2 clicks would have shown you this. http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=blowoutpriceperformance&iid=-1&de=off&items=25&which=negative&interval=365&_trkparms=negative_365