Starwriter

Page 28 of the Clymer manual has the range for each of the years 1987 - 1999. Somewhere on BHQ there is a thread where people posted their case numbers and what year their bike is.

All Banshees after about 2002 had a brake light. New Hampshire had a brake light earlier than that though. To look for the brake light, 1st look at the taillight. It will be about 3" tall and the lens will be about 2" deep. The earlier one will be about 1 1/2" tall and 1/2" deep. The front brake light switch is in the front master cylinder. The rear switch is bolted to the right frame tube and has a steel rod and spring going down to the rear brake pedal. The case number doesn't have any association to the vin#, but there is a number range of case numbers for each year.

Most people run Skat Trak paddles. There is a huge range of sizes, number of paddles, and type of paddles, depending on how much horsepower you have, type of sand/terain, and personal preference. Get ahold of dirtydownunder on here. He's in Australia and can probably help you out with suggestions on buying parts. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=28527

Put it in the free section of craigslist. "Will deliver to your front yard". Someone will want it for a kids play structure. If that doesn't work, see if your local dump will take it whole. I dumped an old outboard flatbottom boat at our local dump. Of coarse that's going to cost you.

The "9" in 20X10-9 is the diameter. You can't put a 10" tire on a 9" wheel. 9" is not a common size for paddles. Most of them are 8" or 10". Almost everybody buys aftermarket wheels to mount the paddles onto. Don't know anything about a Viper. A lot of people run a Trail Tech Vapor.

Now that the emergency is averted, let me say, Welcome to BHQ. The best Banshee forum on the planet. Even though some of the adult humor here is comparable to what you would hear in a high school locker room, there really are a lot of very knowledgeable guys here.

If you call leaking gas all over the garage floor and catching the garage on fire, "nothing", then yeah, OK. BTW, the footpegs are well known for catching wayward bolts.

LMAO!!!! Sorry, but that's the funniest thing I have heard today. If I were you, I would drain the tank. Pull the hose off the fuel tee and poke it into the spout of a gas can. Put it on reserve and drain away. You could put a towel on the top of the motor to catch the spills. Just don't catch the towel on fire somewhere. Once the tank is empty, then you can deal with properly reinstalling the petcock. Of coarse, keep track of what's premixed and what's not. You don't wanna be melting down the motor with unmixed gas.

Sounds like partially clogged petcock screen. That would be the case if you're burning gas faster than the petcock flows and you're running the bowls dry. Try switching it to reserve and see if it solves the problem. It's pretty unlikely that both screens are plugged the same.

I can't say from experience, because I would never run a crank that was subjected to broken piston chunks. However, it's obvious that there's no way to get all the pieces out of the bearings. So, if you choose to run it, that's up to you. Just don't be surprised if you have a catastrophic failure.

Split the cases. What else do you want to know?

WOW! This is not going to have a happy ending.

Well???? We're waiting for pics, gawdammit!!!

Once you get the stem out, and you pry out the seals, you need a special tool to get the bearing out. Here is the one I made. You need a 3/4" bolt which will have a 1 1/8" hex head. You can also jam 2 nuts together and use a 1 1/8" socket to turn it or you can use a pipe wrench on the 3/4" bolt. Here is the bolt kit that we all use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Polished-Stainless-Steel-ATV-Bolt-Kit-/300352177883?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ee6286db&vxp=mtr

Sounds like the threads on the stem or in the nut are stripped. Try to get a screwdriver behind it and pry while spinning it. If that doesn't work, you need a "nut splitter". Either buy one or find an auto repair shop that has one.

Yep, that's why you strip it to a bare frame. "I bought the frame at a garage sale. I don't remember exactly where. I went to a lot of sales that day."

They don't do any good and they crack the rubber intake boots, creating an air leak and melting down the motor.

Hell yeah!!!!!! That's a deal. From what I can see, there's Pro Circuit pipes, aftermarket A arms, Works reservoir front shocks, front braided stainless brake lines, extended roundhouse swingarm, G Force or Durablue rear axle, as well as aftermarket wheels, tires, front bumper, and grab bar. Can't tell much more than that with the crappy pics. Looks like it might have a boost bottle. Get rid of it if it does.

Out of curiousity, I looked around Craigslist in your area. Man, you're right. A lot of raggedy POS bikes. I did find this. Kind of a long road trip, but if you could get him down to $3,000 you would have a pretty sweet bike with potential. Before driving that far, I would ask a LOT of questions. What is the compression? Was a leakdown test done when the motor was built? What is the squish clearance? (If he knows that I would be impressed) Does it have a billet clutch basket? What kind of reeds? (Hopefully VForce) What kind of crank is in it? Was it trued and welded? Were there any mods done to the transmission? Does he have a title for it? http://semo.craigslist.org/sno/4443170896.html

Drill the head off.

Yeow! That's a mess. Especially this one. http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy107/TroyBrock/IMG_4829_zps1578a1b0.jpg

Stock pressure plate that somebody polished.

This is the kind of deal you want to find. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/sno/4435735044.html

Neither of them are a smokin' deal. The black one looks like the frame is bent. I would keep looking for a better deal.

Are there any pegs cut off the shift star?