Starwriter

Yes

I'm guessing that it hasn't run in a very long time, and the bogus CDI, trailer wiring, and scotchlocks were an ATTEMPT to get it running by someone who thought they were a wiring genius. For all you know, they may have mixed up the stator wires or wired in a CDI from a KX250. If you do somehow manage to get it running with that mess, don't ride it any farther than you can push it back.

So, the stator has the matching trailer light connector? You admit that you're not good with wiring. You have a better chance of winning the lottery than getting your bike running with that mess. Scotchlocks and trailer wiring. LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trailer light connector? Seriously? And all those blue scotchlocks? You've got a mess there. And that's not even a Yamaha CDI. Scrap it ALL. Wire harness, CDI, switches, probably even the stator and coil if they look anything like that mess.

Something fishy there. Unplugging the key switch should make it not start. The key switch contacts are closed in the run position. What color are the wires on the connector you unplugged?

Looks to me like the air in the rear tires is not equal and the whole bike is leaning to the left. Put it on level concrete and start checking the frame with a level. If the rear tires are level and the whole frame is leaning, the swingarm could be twisted.

Depends on how much you weigh. If you weigh 300 lbs, no. (How much is that in kgs?) If you weigh 200 lbs or less, you'll be fine.

Here, somebody's slamming RS on ebay. LOL!!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Yamaha-350-Banshee-Rickys-FAKE-Stator-Flywheel-Chinese-SCRAP-Metal-DECOR-/111365510236?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ede6d45c&vxp=mtr

AXLE IS SOLD. Thanks mjaske

The #2 fork goes in the left rear position. The #1 forks go right rear and front positions. If you got them in those positions, they're right. As mentioned, you have to turn the trans as you try to shift it. Also for the shafts to be in the right positions, the clutch basket, washers, hub and nut and the sprocket, spacer, and nut have to be installed.

Very nice OEM '03 Blaster axle. This is the poor mans Drag axle for a Banshee. Straight and good splines. Checked for runout in a lathe. Only has .002" runout. $100 shipped including paypal fees.

There's one in the back of your Clymer manual.

This is the 3rd time this guy has listed these. He keeps dropping the price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RZ-350-motor-cases-/131192200297?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8baa1c69

Did you start it in between pouring oil in the cylinders and doing a compression test? If not, have you considered that your compression reading is higher than reality because of the extra oil on the rings?

On the VForce 2, you have to use those gaskets between the reeds and the intake boot, to keep the middle cage part from rattling around in the outer frame. You use ordinary gaskets between the reeds and the cylinder. Be sure to do a leakdown test after it's assembled.

Here you are. A bit of a roadtrip for you. Don't know if you want to trust somebody on Craigslist to ship. http://kpr.craigslist.org/mcy/4469926912.html

I hate it when fucktards sell their shit and don't delete their ad. Makes me want to put their phone number on bulletin boards all around town. "1969 Camaro Z28 302 4 speed. All original. Never wrecked. Needs restored. $3,000. No phone calls after midnight, please. (XXX)XXX-XXXX"

No.

So, not DISengaging is what you're talking about? These things aren't like a car. You can't just disengage the clutch and push them around.

Explain YOUR definition of engage and disengage. Let's see if it matches everyone else's definition.

I wouldn't be afraid of that at all as long as it's signed off properly by the registered owner, and no name filled in as the buyer. If there is a name filled in as the buyer, you just need a DMV bill of sale from the buyers name on the title to you. If there's still any question about it, have him send you pics of the paperwork and go to your local DMV and ask them.

I wonder if this one is still for sale. http://reading.craigslist.org/sno/4416708176.html

Slides are probably in backwards. When you have left and right swapped, the slide cutaway ends up towards the motor. The cutaway should be towards the air filter. Also make sure the bowls aren't swapped. The left bowl should have a brass BB on the outside,at the front, near the bottom. Yes, that's the choke tube.

If it were me, I would box up all the cylinders, pistons, and domes that you have and ship them to Redline. Let Cam look them over and figure out what's gonna work the best.

I wonder if this cheap bore and hone is going to include chamfering the ports.