Starwriter

Try to stick a magnet to it. I'm betting it's aluminum. There's a lot of aluminum there. That's why it's heavy. Great idea. Bad implementation.

Yep, that would be a 2009.

Make sure you get the new style rotors and hubs too. The rotor bolts on the old style stick up farther, and I'm pretty sure they'll hit the caliper mount on the new style caliper.

Has somebody actually done that? LOL

Only 2 ways coolant can get into the clutch cover. Bad waterpump seal or you pushed the water tube O ring out of place when you put the clutch cover on and it's pinched in between the cover and the case where the gasket is. Always put vasoline or something on the O ring so it slips into the clutch cover properly.

Weren't you the one that was going to run 795 pistons with short rods? How did that turn out?

Take it to someone with a hydraulic press. Real easy and doesn't smash the threads on the end of the axle.

If the stock A arms have shot ball joints, they're scrap metal. You can't replace the ball joints.

Cool, glad it was something simple. So, if the front hub is loose, you need new wheel bearings.

^There you go. Nice pic.

It's supposed to go under the bolt rearward of the actuator and sit between those 2 nubs on the case, as shown in the pic on page 153 of the Clymer manual.

Potato

Not completely. Looks like there's still about a 1/2" gap there. I'm talking about ALL the way forward to the number pad. Maybe even flush with the top surface of the number pad, so cosmetically, the number pad just kind of flows into the case saver.

Somebody should hit him up to make one that goes all the way forward to the case# pad to hide whacked cases.

Buy Jay's setup and be done with it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176161&hl=%2Bplate#entry1615821

I bet the carb slides are swapped. When you have them swapped, the slide cutaway ends up towards the motor. The cutaway should be towards the air filter.

That sucks. I just checked the online parts lookup and 99 is the 1st year that they show the riveted on warning labels.

http://texoma.craigslist.org/sno/4491298392.html

My 87 OEM fenders didn't have the riveted on warning labels. I have wondered for a little while now, if you can buy new OEM 87 fenders, or if they'll just ship you newer white fenders with the holes drilled. I'm also not sure if the white is the same color. They have all they're weird codes. Purplish bluish pinkish white solid or some shit. Do not even attempt to buy from boats.net. They are awful!! No communication. Didn't ship parts. 2 weeks later, I called and demanded a refund.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57758 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85115 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=155100

Probably not much. Read this. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176143&hl=

This is exactly what TwistedMethods needs, but he's too cheap.

Oh, OK, that makes sense now. So you don't have a short. You have a key switch circuit that is going open when you turn the bars. Wire broken internally or at the solder connection on the switch. Ohm meter and wiggle wires if you want to find it. The best place to wire a tether is to the black/white kill switch wire.

Could have got more money for it if you hadn't mentioned the Ricky Stator.

OK, you want help? I'll give you help. You don't need the yellow and black headlight wires to make it run. There. You do need a known good BANSHEE CDI, a tested good stator, a tested good Banshee coil, wires connected PROPERLY between them. Scotchlocks do not make a proper connection. Wires twisted together and taped do not make a proper connection. They need to be soldered and heatshrinked. Butt connectors are a step above scotchlocks, but still should only be used for car stereos and things that won't leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. From there, you're going to have to trace out the white/red to brown trailer light connector wire through the trailer wire connector and back to the white/red CDI wire, etc. and make sure all the necessary ground wires are connected together properly. If you can do all that, then you ARE good at wiring. Go to it. I wasn't being an asshhole. I was just pointing out that the junk wiring you have is going to cause you problems FOREVER, if you ever get it running. I AM good with wiring and and even I wouldn't try to salvage that mess.