Starwriter

Yes, they fit over the stock headlight brackets. They slide sideways over the brackets from the outside. I have these exact covers without the hole drilled for the headlights. I put them on to cover the brackets when I'm not running headlights. When you use them with the aftermarket headlights, as above, you must trim the outside frame bracket so that the bottom mounting nut of the headlight clears the bracket as you slide them on.

Choke tube

Make sure the carb slides have the cutaway towards the air filters. If they are swapped, the cutaway ends up towards the motor and it runs like crap. Make sure the choke tube is in place between the carbs and make sure the left float nowl has the brass BB at the front.

If you want a white radiator cover, it's gonna have to be aftermarket. Yamaha never made that part in white. Grey or carbon fiber is as close as you get.

If you mean the stock kill switch, yeah, that grounds the black/white wire to kill the motor.

The 1st dyno pull with the 11882 pistons.

Yes, the red/black key switch wire must be grounded for it to run. The black/white wire should not be grounded for it to run. Ground the black/white wire to kill it.

Thanks Windy. After reading through that 3 times, your concepts actually occurred to me. The initial flow through the piston windows (and boysen ports) is simply the release of pressure from the intake area, to assist in filling the transfers. The intake area is never closed off from the rest of the bottom end by the piston. It's just more accumulated space that gets dumped into the transfers. I originally thought the piston windows main purpose was to allow incoming AFM from the reeds into the bottom end.

I have an honest question for somebody that REALLY knows what goes on inside a 2 stroke. We all know that when the piston is on it's way down, it is creating positive pressure in the bottom end. This pressure builds higher and higher until the transfers open and the AFM flows through the transfers. At this point, the reeds are still closed. When the piston is at BDC, the reeds are still closed. The piston then starts moving upward, and at some point, negative pressure is created in the bottom end, pulling the reeds open. In my mind, negative pressure in the bottom end can not be achieved until the transfers close at about 60 degrees ABDC. So, here's the question. There is obviously no flow immediatly at BDC. When does flow into the bottom end actually start?

This thread needs some eye candy to tip the scales in the other direction.

<The only person here with 3 of ^ motors

^Ponch!

I guess this explains why he won't post pics. GAWD, that's FUGLY! http://southjersey.craigslist.org/snw/4540514294.html

I Googled Banshee box, and I came up with Peter Frampton playing, Do you feel like I do?

Someone ship them a Banshee master cylinder and ask them to see if they have something that fits. If not, might have to buy a R1 or R6 master. The clutch lever and perch would probably be a bolt on.

Well, these are pretty bitchin! Anyone ever deal with this company? http://constructorsrg.com/levers/carbon.html#

If you're talking about the rears, 89 and 90 are 4 on 156mm. If that's what you have on an 87, someone swapped them on there.

I'm pretty sure ALL he has is a frame. He's one of these new guys that can't afford a Banshee right now and figures he'll just buy a piece here and there as he has money. 2 years and $6,000 later he might have a $3500 bike.

So, you're gonna run full or mostly full rear fenders? If not, cut those lower fender brackets off. As for the 2 flag mounts, some people run 2 flags, "because they can". I always thought it looked dumb.

Sell your frame and buy a complete bike. A lot cheaper than buying a piece at a time and paying for shipping.

Sometimes you make sense and sometimes you are so far out in left field you can't even find the ball. Raising the cylinder 2 mm results in the EXACT same port timings as raising the cylinder 1 mm and using your "special" piston with a 1 mm lower piston top. Until you can back up any of your claims with port timing numbers, or dyno charts, you are just another backwoods, hillbilly bench racer.

Somethings getting off track here. These were touted as a way of dropping in a 4mil crank with no porting, no head machining, no aftermarket head and no spacer plate. Now you're CNCing domes? Here's an easier challenge for you. Put those pistons in with your .060" base gasket and post the port timings and squish clearance.

I'm gonna bet this didn't include a leakdown test. Don't ride it till you do a leakdown test.

Minky is endorsing these. That's all the confirmation I need! I better buy a set right now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Wiseco-ULTRA-STROKER-pistons-Yamaha-Banshee-4mm-long-rod-gasket-64-50-NEW-/271520642825?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f37e43709&vxp=mtr

Even if you have case fed reeds, it's still not going to run for shit if the port timings are wrong. You're side stepping the port timing issue, in favor of a "drop in" setup.