Starwriter

Po dezine cooo head. LOL

When you drill aluminum, grind the bit like this. It will prevent the bit from diving in when it punches through.

The OP wants to trade a 40 for a 35, so would need narrow 35 bearings. I tried to convert a 40 to 35. A friend of mine works at a bearing supply place. He couldn't come up with anything. What is your source for these "special" bearings?

If you get a titled bike with $4k-$5k worth of aftermarket parts, for $2500, none of that matters. As long as it runs, is clean, chrome not all rusty, and vin matches title, that's all I care about. I've bought several bikes this way. Never even rode them or did a compression check before buying.

See if the slides or float bowls are swapped.

http://www.mrblingmotorsports.com/

It's not that simple. 40mm bearings are narrower than 35. At minimum, you would need a different spacer tube. Some carriers can be converted. Some can not.

More money in aftermarket parts than the selling price. If you find that, then the base bike is free.

Headlights are important when you're "cruising the trails" at night with your rigid rear end.

You're in Indiana, right? Have you checked with Hazzard? http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176599&hl=

Cheap Keihin knock offs. Good luck with that. Or maybe I should say, cheap knockoffs that aren't made by Keihin.

If you want to have aluminum chromed, this company is really good. http://classiccomponents.com/

I went BAC to Ohio but my city was gone. Nope, not a sponsor. Look at the sponsor list.

Apparently some people haven't noticed our latest BHQ sponsor.

It sure sounds like your pressure plate is not aligned right. Is this how you did it?

Why not go right to the source? I'm sure there's plenty of other cool goodies on their site you need/want/lust for. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=3&store_dept_id=16

Is that the cub motor you just bought?

1st, they're smokin crack if they think a bent frame is worth $90. IF you get title with it, it's worth no more than $50. 2nd, do you have a title for yours? If you do AND you are good at MIG or TIG welding AND you can get the A arm brackets for under $50, I would convert it. I have a J arm frame that I plan to convert. My plan is to make a flat bar with holes in it drilled the exact distance apart that the A arm brackets need to be apart from each other and bolt that on the back side of the A arm mounts from side to side with the A arm bolts going through the J arm mounts, with spacers between the rear J arm mounts and the rear A arm mounts. This will locate the A arm mounts in the correct location from the front mount and should locate the mounts correctly left to right. Weld it up and then cut off the rear J arm mounts.

I was pretty sure Europe uses a different rating system. I found this. As far as the difference in numbers, it's entirely because of the method used to calculate the octane. In the states, we use the ((R+M) /2) average, which sits about 5-10 octane lower than the standard RON measurement Europe uses.

I just looked back at that one you posted in your other thread. That is a VERY nice Banshee. http://fresno.craigslist.org/snw/4511340836.html

It's only 338 miles round trip for you. I did that in an evening for a bike and went to work the next day. The 2 best deals I have gotten were 600 miles round trip each.

The guys an idiot and it's overpriced for what it is.

Fill the front tires with calcium chloride/water mix. LOL Seriously, why not just keep that bitchin front end a hang a steel tube, filled with lead, from the front bumper mounts. You'll need less overall weight by putting it as far forward as possible.

I'll save someone the effort of looking up where area code 402 is. It's Eastern Nebraska.

Nobody can have just 1 Banshee. Here's 1 2/3 Banshees for $3,000. Ones pretty nice. The other ones a NASTY. http://santamaria.craigslist.org/snw/4531026457.html