Starwriter
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Posts posted by Starwriter
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What's a good brand ? Can't really find any polished or chrome ones on eBay or here
I was gonna suggest Cascade Innovations, but I just checked and they have gotten stupid with their prices. So, if you go new, I would buy from FAST.
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Why would you want OEM if the park brake has been deleted? You'll end up with that park brake chunk just flopping around looking stupid. Buy a new aftermarket lever with a ball bearing. They're not that expensive.
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Have you guys seen the colored ti bolts?
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These are pretty bitchin too.
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This is the look that I am going to go with sometime in the future, with contrasting bolt and washer colors.
Here's another way you can go.
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Yep, that rear caliper is stock. They're the same through all the years.
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Be sure to only use the Vforce2 gaskets on the Vforce2 reeds between the reeds and the intake boots.
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Early brake lines have a fitting on the end that screws directly into the caliper. Late style calipers use a banjo bolt. Someone on here used the late style lines with the banjo bolts on the early style calipers.
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Sure, as long as there's not metal chunks in the bearings, just hose it down with brake clean, carb cleaner, solvent, lacquer thinner, acetone, or whatever. Just make sure you oil the bearings before you install it.
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Just make sure you get the cable for with or without TORS, depending on what you have. If the TORS has not been removed, now would be a good time to get rid of it.
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Uses stock hangers. Buy OEM from your Yamaha dealer, Rocky mtn atv, fast, or buy used. Or buy chrome hangers from Cascade or billet hangers.
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The reason I ask is because if the older setup is no better or worse, why swap these onto a 98?
Because that's what they had laying around.
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Actually that style is 87-89. The 90 was a J arm bike with late style brakes. The spindles, hubs and rotors are different between the 2 styles.
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Let me guess. Ricky Stator or RM flywheel? OEM is the only way to go.
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No, they're the same. However, different manufacturers make the width of the slot different from other manufacturers, so make sure you get the bushing that goes in the slot with it. Also make sure you get the 2 caliper mount spacer bushings and the big snap ring.
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Well, buy stock if you want, but here's what I bought. Ported motor, wiseco pistons, trued and welded crank, billet clutch basket, billet intakes, 33 PWK carbs, K&N filters, VForce reeds, T5 pipes, chrome Lonestar +4 roundhouse swingarm, lonestar axle, billet sprocket and brake hubs, blue label wheels, Skat Trak paddles, mohawks, chrome stock A arms, polished clutch cover, billet foot pegs, billet shifter, chrome rear brake lever and kicker, and all the usual billet cosmetic goodies, with a title. $2500.
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Still not a great deal. If they have documentation that the crank was trued and welded, it would be a so so deal. Personally, I would look for a better deal.
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If I were you, I'd seriously look at this one. Although I've gotten better deals, this one has some nice stuff.
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It's a lengthened stocker. Even though it looks like it's fairly well done, it's still only worth about $1.14 for scrap.
I bet you can play a tune on that brake hose.
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So, you tipped the motor to the right side, and the rod slid out, but no ball? Just for info, the rod goes in, then the ball, and then the clutch pusher/ adjuster with the pressure plate. If you have an aftermarket pancake bearing, make sure it goes washer, roller bearing, washer, then the pressure plate. While it's apart, you should check the clutch actuator(that the clutch cable hooks to) for wear.
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I'm in the minority, but I wouldn't buy either of them. Not enough aftermarket goodies. Look for a bike that has more money in aftermarket parts than the selling price of the bike, making the base bike FREE. Aftermarket wheels, tires, roundhouse swingarm, pipes, air filters, cool head, billet clutch basket, A arms, shocks, cosmetic billet goodies, etc. That way, even if you have to rebuild the motor, you're still money ahead. There's a gamble that you will have to rebuild the motor in ANY bike you buy. There are 2 good reasons not to buy a J arm bike. 1. As mentioned above, harder to get aftermarket arms for it. 2. Lower resale value, because of the "perception" that J arms are weaker than A arms. Granted, the J arm is a crappy design, but you have to hit a tree, rock, or wall, really hard to bend one.
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If that piece of o ring is the same length as the water tube O ring, then that's where it came from. Somebody got sloppy and left it in there. I would be more concerned about extra metal pieces floating around that could get in between the gears. Whether or not you choose to split the cases(assuming it passes leakdown), is up to how willing to gamble you are.
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Good job getting the broken eccentric bolt out. That's not good that you have all that miscellaneous junk floating around in there. Check the back of the clutch basket. Originally the plate is riveted on. If someone removed the plate to replace the cushions, they would have drilled out the rivets and put in bolts. Maybe that spare bolt came from there. That ball that you're pointing at... Is there another ball inside the trans shaft? There should only be 1 ball like that in the whole motor. Did you account for the bendover lock washer from the eccentric bolt? There are small passages that feed oil into the trans. Hopefully no spare parts went into the trans. The only way to know for 100% sure is to split the cases. If I were you, I would do a leakdown test before you go any farther. If either of the crank seals are leaking, you need to split the cases anyway.
New plastic bolts
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
The 3 that hold the radiator plastic are smaller. Don't know the size. I'm not near any of my bikes.