sprinklerman

Millennium for cyls, crankworks for crank. But you might get faster turnaround times by letting a builder with accounts/good relationships at both places send it in for you.

^^^^^^^^ Mr chow has spoken.

Any Oregon clues included?

Edit: Good choice on the brace btw. Simple and effective. Better than the strut style that you have to mount to the frame and drill a hole in your cover.

Wheelies at 150' out FTW!

Not worth restoring imho. That's the LEAST desirable years of quadracers and parts are rare/expensive. So I'd part it out and use the cash into a savings account, or if you like spending, buy banshee goodies.

Good choice. Ryans 10 Super Serval on pump gas was spanking it's fair share of drag bikes at LSOK last ride. Although he only weighs 80lbs wet....

Blasterforum.

Right on. Don't take a dime less than 300.00 plus shipping.

JL engineering

Intake port to be exact.

A bike is either clean or not....whatever color it is. Although I'd suspect a white frame would show any scratches / stains/surface rust the worst.

The "anodized look" PC can go either way depending on top coat. Have you looked at prismatic powders website?

black and chrome is classic. If you want to put a twist to it, try black anodized bits. Or black anodized powder coated frame .

Wildcard got me a set fast and reasonable. I'd hit them up.

Trail bike = stock carbs.

Imo, at least both A-arms.

Is that an OFFICIAL call out?

I'll be bringing a stock teryx he can race to make it fair.

Still won't matter. Until the unicorn bike shows up and races something, it means nothing. You can have pictures of a 100 cyls on your bench, if you aren't faster than the people you call " parts changers" , what difference is it? I'd bet a good chunk of money the " parts changers" whoop the unicorns ass.

RUs banshee skills >>

Haha! Nice try. If you think for a second that'd I'd share a scrap of good info with you..you must have bumped your head. Not even a picture. I know your game...but you're not getting any free tuition from me. Especially since you act like you're a know-it -all...and everyone else is just a parts changer. I know your type, ,you gain a little knowledge, then think you know it all. But have no real world experience (banshees in this case). I met several of your kind on MacDizzys website back when it was free .. Rick was like that too btw...could talk all the lingo..but never could let a fast bike do the talking.

Although I agree with this...I DISAGREE with speaking in absolutes ( as registered user does) when he/she dosen't have any direct experience with said topic.Also I disagree with talking down to and or belittling people who HAVE done more than he/ she has done on said topic. ( banshees)

My deal is this registered user...you come on here calling people "parts changers" and saying things like "don't ever do this" (knife edge) ... but you can't even wrap your head around why a certain piston pin height is preferred? You dwell on minor stuff ( whether an intake port has a knife edge or not...which isn't going to make any HP difference one way or the other btw) but can't comprehend which piston and rod combo has been proven to work for years? ...which btw, has proven to be dependable and been part of engine packages that produce in excess of 120+ hp. ...but good lord!!!.. Don't dare put a point on that intake bridge! FFS. You strike me as someone who THINKS he knows more than everyone else on here ( who btw, have ACTUALLY OWNED and BUILT many fast banshees), when you have yet to do so yourself. Seems odd to me.