xander450

Hoping one of you transmission gurus can help me out with this one. I just got an RZ350 tranny that I planned to drop into my shee motor this weekend. All was looking pretty good until I came across this: a little nick in one of the shift drum grooves that seems to bind up the fork when it passes through that part of the channel. Thoughts? Any hope for it? It doesn't seem to be raised, so not sure if filing would get me anywhere.

I think it's your jetting, yes.

Well, oil can only come from two places - either from your premix or you're sucking up oil from your trans. If you've done a leakdown and you're good there, it has to be your jetting/mixture. Jetted correctly, I've never seen a 2 stroke fail to burn oil as a result of a mixture ratio as high as 20:1. Surely some oils are more resistant to combustion than others, but I doubt that's where the problem is. Moral of story, I'd work on dialing in your pilot until you're able to do some plug chops for the mains. Something else worth contemplating... things that cause inefficient/incomplete combustion can produce some very confusing symptoms. I recently had a setup that was spitting oil out of the exhaust at the cylinders, but also had bone white plugs. Turns out i had a massive air leak - fixed that and both problems cleared up.

Nah, it wasn't a bad idea, or a particularly hard one to accomplish. You could drill and tap a low send and high return fitting on your clutch cover, add reservoir, electric pump and inline coolers and you're there. But as said, not really necessary - it was done on GP bikes, but they run WOT for long periods. Btw, not sure your oil is the best idea - wet clutches don't get along well with synthetic motor oils, which is why there are bike-specific trans oils. If your clutch starts slipping, you might try klotz, bel-ray, even ATF.

Do these cranks require professional installation?

I'm a little unclear on your plan here - is the banshee motor going into the ZX6RR frame, or is the ZX6RR motor going into the banshee frame? Or both?

Myself and a couple other people have been asking about those g-115 rods - so far no one has brought up a known failure. Would love to hear people's experiences with these - thus far mine has only run for about an hour's worth of tuning.

Stupid question I'm sure - but it looks to me like if the coolant level's not all the way up (which would be a likely cause of overheating) it wouldn't reach these rad cap temp gauges, which strikes me as a serious flaw in design. Am i missing something?

Perhaps you're thinking in keihin jet ranges? Stock jetting is in the low 200s. Plenty of ported stockers are running 300+ mains on stock vm26's.

Anyone? I tested for a short while today at 440 main, 40 pilot - a bit lean which surprised me, that was my surely-too-rich guess. Next shot will be 480/50.

Radar, was that jetting for a 421 serval? That seems way low - I tested for a short while this afternoon on 340 main/35 pilot with needle in the middle and it was definitely lean (and tested with leak down, motor is tight).

Aren't the stock banshee carbs mikuni vm26's?

As title says - just put together a serval 421, need to jet. I'm using a pair of VM32's, mostly just because they're what I've got around. I know they might not be ideal - let's skip the bit where we talk about why PWK 28's would be better. So, on to jetting - setup is: serval 421 w/ 24cc domes at 500ft, squish at .042", uni pod filters, stock timing, mixing Motul 800 at 32:1. Anyone got a ballpark on jetting? Thanks!!

Unfortunately not... their shit turned out to be vaporware. http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51542

Fair enough - i, for one, plan to carve my next crank from brazilian rosewood. It'll probably fail, and will also be expensive, which i understand means i have chosen wisely. Neat.