Well isn't it aluminum and the stocker is brass? That alone should reduce temps. IDK though good topic I was thinking of gettin on of these but if it doesn't really reduce engine temps why would I????
No cracks or flakes at all. It will scratch though but not too easy. Every now and then it will start gettin to me and I'll take a q-tip soaked in paint and fix it.
One reason they look so good in the last pic is because the benifit to paint is you can wax it lol
I was thinking about that location at first but went the other route instead- still a cool idea.
I'd use small PIAA rectangle shaped lights with a blacked out backer.
You can step sand them starting at 400 and work your way up to 1000+ grit. You can also step sand them using steel wool the same way.
After that buff them out and you have new plastics. If you want to change the color Krylon makes plastic paint thats pretty good. Use a wax/oil/greese remover to prep before paint.
Here's mine I think they came out looking OK.
Before:
After:
Thank you guys for all the replies guys and thanks Matt for crackin that egg of knowledge on me.
I'm def going with a stock shock rebuild/re-valve.
Does anybody know if there is a dual rate spring up grade or is that something not really needed?
Can someone recommend a re builder?
I tring to decide whick route to take (always a price vs performance thing) with my rear shock.
How does the stocker re-built, re-valved compare to say an entry level Works unit?
Whats the cost vs cost?
On my Shee I deleted all the stock lighting and their mounting points.
Cool idea with mounting them underneath though.
I chose the bars so my light always points where I'm going.
That basket looks worn but I'd be surprised if thats your problem.
I watched the video and it sounds like your motor is out of breath- not reving up.
If the clutch was slipping it would still rev up.
I use the entry level Eastwood gun myself. Everything I could fit in the over on my Banshee and Blaster is PC'ed.
I'm a fan of sandblasting anything that isn't PC'ed already for prepping a piece.
Make sure you clean the part real good after Blasting and use a propane torch to burn off the lint from your rag and pre-heat the part.
Buy yourself a silicone plug kit it makes life alot easier and use tin foil to cover the odd stuff you don't want the powder to get on.
Best things I ever cooked in my old oven were quad parts haha
Don't know if you thought about this yet but have you taken steps to keep it cool? 66.5mm jugs don't leave much for heat transfer.
Outside of that I'd love to rock a 10mil stock cylinder bike
That wire is my on/off or kill switch. I don't run a key. My brake light and main lights are self contained with a battery independent of the harness.
I did wire them into the stock switch though. The low beam selector is for the brake light only and the high beam selector runs both my brake and my leds.
I deleted my wires right out of the CDI.
You have the wiring diagram what more do you need? Start by taking your harness off the bike and untaping the whole thing it's easy after that because alot of the stuff you don't need has a plug on it.
Cut off the plugs and delete the wires leading to it. Here's a pic of my harness for shitz and giggles.
Its the methanol in the rc gas suckin in all the moisture. I like to squeeze all the air out of the bottle then cap it. I run nitro in my 28.5cc hpi baja. Shitz rediculous mang.