Paulie B

When I bought my motor it was missing a shift fork shaft case plug. I replaced it and it came out again. What can I do to keep it in? Would some red loctite help or something else?

What the hell pipes are you guys running? I never burn my leg/pants on my PC's.

Would you trust Trinity for this? They have drums already modded with the bearing for sale outright on Egay. Reason I ask is because I don't think I'll have time to ship it somewhere and get it back in time for my trip.

I just got the gears side cut. I'm wanting on my crank to put it back together.

My shee started like as a 00' model. The radiator cover is factory carbon fiber from an 03' SE. I did a ground up restore on her to look like a 70's model. It's a tribute to the legendary Bob Hannah

Steam fitted? First I've heard of that. How long does it take? I stop waering my Thor Q1's cause they fit so bad.

Same happened to me 5 1/2 hours from home on a trip. I tried no less then 3 different masterlinks. I had to buy a new chain and also 4 extra matching masterlinks. The closed end points in the direction the chain travels like stated- it keeps the weeds and sticks from catching on the clip stipping it off.

I'm so happy to read this right now. I have the exact same problem as the OP. It would shift when fun riding but when ever I race someone I would miss shifts- it's pretty embarrassing really. My shift style is like a track bike. I backload coming into turns and such... I have every mod listed except the bearing on the drum mod. I can't wait to get it back together and feel better now thanks.

^^^This fixt my midrange problem + adding dyna needles. Try a 310-320 main jet also

MSD, Nology...

Jes for the sake of arguing. The org/blk is the 2008 The wht/red is the 2010 model Personally every year they made the yellow/black colors are the best but you already knew that

Guys I don't know if you know this but craigslist uses those midget horses for the HP ratings. My trail ported, PC piped shee put down a healthy 105hp on the craistlist dyno.

Thats with the swinger parallel to the ground and the chain is tightest.

I do the 2 figers deal on mine, thats about 1" + or - I did notice that once the TM wears down to the chain rollors, the amount of wear slow down a bit.

Rite on. It will no doubt be better then that stock roller. I took me about a month to wear 1/2 inch slot into my TM. I figered it would have worn slower.

This might be a stupid question but have your lubed your cable recently?

This is how I check my rod bearings. This works for both the upper and lower. Pull your rod all the way to TDC. Wack it with the palm of your hand. If you hear a 'tink' then it's time for a rebuild.

Heres a good answer best buddy ol pal ol friend Nikki lol I bought my 10mil crank with no intention of dragging. In fact my set-up is basically all stock except PC pipes and raised compression. I only want more torque for the trails like my 400 Blasty. From what I have been told and shown is this crank- specifically it's rods ain't even comparable to stock. That's complete BS. The rods on this crank are useless. Mine came from TDR BTW who should be ashamed for selling it. The pic is of a TDR crank.... The age old 'no warranty for high performance crap' should not apply here. They are shit even when not racing.

This is not my motor. This is a pic sent to me from a friend to try and stop me from putting together my motor with my 'cheap' crank. It worked BTW What I know about the pic is it's a 10mil serval duner on only a few outings.

You sure it's not warped? You could maybe lap it flat.

Once you get it out cut a slot in the needle retaining bolt so you can use a flat head screw driver on it next time.- it makes it soooo much easier to get out. Like it is you practically need 3 hands.

What came first the bend or the snap?

My cheap 10mil crank has been nothing but a nitemare. Cost shipped: $412 Cost shipped for new rods: $450 Ride time missed 2 months so far.

Is this something that previously ran good before? What pilot jet are you running? Did you do a leak down test? It could be sucking air.

No worries I was pretty UN-impressed with my aftermarket TM designs slider. Your chains too tight or your too fat. You could try chain waxing it. That will help it slide and keep your chain from rusting too.