Paulie B

I had a job cancel on me today so I decided to take the shee out for a blast. It never overheats but today after about a 5 minute ride it was massively overheating. I heard water boiling inside the radiator and steam coming out my overflow tube. I'm about to break her all down for some new carbs and take the head off to mill it down some more. Anybody wanna take a stab at what just happened? I have a billet impeller and oversize radiator.

Just for fun, heres a mid 4's blaster

Vid of john beating the rappy. The guy is pretty cocky but at least he puts up the vids of being beat.

It looks nice all dressed up to ride.

haha I saw the slip 4.6 Baby banshees are heart breakers mang. I'm building one next year

A set-up blasty will run mid 4's in the 300. John 10mil is NOT set-up completly btw. New motor and chassis from this year.

The 787 rappy I seen was a few hundreads off going into the 3's. John beat him with a 465 running a 4.038, then Jeff knocked him out running a 3. something.

I didn't even think that was possible with the pin still in.

A hardware store like true value should have rubber plugs. Think the kind that goes on top of the beakers in science class. 2 of them and 2 hose clamps would be a quick easy fix. I use them to plug my exhaust before a wash. Savage I heard if you lengthen that hose by about 6ft and route all around your frame it gives you a super boost bottle effect- about 5hp per foot

A janked up key is either from the flywheel slipping or carelessness installing the flywheel. Whn the flywheel taper matches the cank taper right and it's torqued correctly, technically you don't even need a key. Get some valve lapping compound from the auto parts store, dab it inside the flywheel taper and work you hand back in forth and around while pushing the flywheel on. Pull it off and wipe it with a rag, repeat, repeat, repeat. You will know when it's enough by the whole inside of the taper as well as the crank taper being the same dull sheen. Brandon gave me tip for monster HP motors that doesn't apply to me but since were here, heat up the flywheel taper with a torch then install. Obviously not glowing hot but around say 200-250 degrees. Once installed and cooled down they will be married. I didn't do the torch part. I'm paranoid about gettin the flywheel back off which I had bad luck with before.

A 787 rappy laid waste to ALMOST everthing my last time out. It took a 10mil and a snomo to take him out. In my observations the 4 stroke comes off the line with a lower rpm, a butt load of torque, and did not spin. All the banshees leave the line spin a lil and then catch up. So besides the $$$$$ aspect, higher maintenance, and weight disadvantage, I think a 100hp poker would beat a 100hp smoker

Looks like the work of an impatient 10-16 yo kid all over that bike.

I used to just strap mine down real good on my open end trailer but the noid in me used to pull over at least a couple times to check the straps on long hauls. Do your self a favor and add a back to it. I drilled 4 holes and simply bolted a piece of 5" oak to the back. The piece of mind is priceless.

You would also need the right side slide to match correct?

No problem

lol you can't even see the jugs. No it's not a Cheetah or even a PV motor. I'm not too sure how much experience you have with PV's but all they do it raise and lower the exhaust port timing. It will not make you faster in a drag race but it will lower the exhaust port timing on the low end for more power and a flater torque curve. I will bow out at this point cause my 10mil isn't anything like yours I'm sure someone will chime in for you brother. My .02 for what it's worth is, I'd run the PV unless your just drag racing.

If you have google earth installed it tells you the same thing FWIW.

It's simple. If your drag racing then the PV's don't have any work to do, your at high rpms the whole time. If your trail, woods, or dune riding then I would use them for the extra low-end they were designed to give you.

Wildcard went way out of their way to make sure I had the parts to make my riding trip. Good peeps over there!

I could prolly do that. I'll definitely have the new carbs on board by then. My goal is 80hp

Sounds like a great excuss to visit 'Vaaaa' beach! I've never been.

They could be close though brother. Throw some top-end porting, 41mm carbs, top-end pipes, not alot of timing and not too much compression on the stock stroke set-up. Get it to turn up some rpms and hold together and it would make serious HP just not alot of usable torque.

I've never been impressed by them in fact they run like crap in my relic 74' Yamaha MX175 while NGK's run fine. I have not seen any gain from them in any 2 stroke I own from my dirtbike, quads, weedwacker, or 1/5 scale r/c.

10mil set-up all the way. It has a better balance of bore and stroke + the CC advantage.

You pretty much got it covered but you forgot the oil drain bolt.