Paulie B

OP is a bot but I'll chime in. I've got a predator 90 2t that's been pretty durable. I dont jump it or take it through deep mud. Out of the box they are pretty tame but can be upgraded to be pretty quick and strong enough to pull wheelies and do doughnuts with a 250lb rider! Perfect for a kid

How do I get in on this? Do you only have one?

You wont run them. I check out some pics of those cat ambush tires. They look like standard razor knock offs. I dont doubt you because you know but why are they so dominant?

Far as I know they come small block, big block, and with an optional large flange on the head pipe if you have the cylinders cast with large flanges.

Ok you added a weld on oring bung with reciever grooves??? Your other pipes is that heater hose?? Does the hose melt???

Both sets I used came from sniper. First set were supplied with the pipes, large flange in frames and the second set I order direct from sniper. My pipes have an oring reciever groove cut into the silencers. They are a very tight fit but will come together with some muscle and twisting action. The front set has no reciever groove. I cant see any way they wouldn't leak there. Someone needs to make a silicone joint for these things

The dyna coil is a pretty solid unit too for another option. Bolts right up to the stock location and you dont need to make your own wires.

The snipers are 3 piece and have 2 oring joints. One after the expansion chamber and another at the silencers. My set leaked right after the expansion chambers right out the gate. I replaced them and still they leak there. They will spit hot oil on my legs.

My sniper inflames are loud as shit on a 521 SS. I'm currently looking into adapting a couple 250 silencers for it. They also leak at the mid pipe joint bad.

I'd like to see someone try goldspeed sc4's with every other row cut.

Yeah I did not lock tite it before. I def applied copious amounts of red loc tite this time around. The key was a lil janked up but the key way was fine.

Ok to update this thread it was something totally else that I just tracked down. The flywheel came loose! After pulling the head and checking the pistons they looked fine. I still heard that grinding sound. I ended up pulling the side cover and the flywheel came loose with the key wedging itself in there. That was causing the grinding and the hard to kick over feeling. Thank you guys for taking the time to try and help.

It kicks over fine just has a really weird rattle now. It has compression. It doesn't want to fire. I haven't pulled the plugs yet. I'm inside the house now doing the family thing looking for answers before I goto bed lol

$1200 on a billet crank gone just like that? Naw WTF. What would cause the floats to get stuck open like that? I was running Klotz R-50.

I haven't rode my shee for 8 months mostly because of the record rain we had last year. Wet riding destroys my trails. This weekend I'm having a riding party and said fuck it I'll ride anyway. Last time I rode I did the right thing and shut the fuel off and ran the carbs close to dry. Today I went out to start her up. I pulled the chokes, turned the fuel on, and shee started 2nd kick. I pushed the chokes back down and was doing some reving out to get warmed up. The motor started to die so I gave it some gas to keep going. This is when I noticed fuel running out pretty much all the vent lines on my PWK's. The motor slowed and died. Now it's hard to kick over and has a funny rattle when it kicks over- I don't know how else to describe it. I doesn't want to start. WTF happened and WTF should I do now????? Motor is a 521 Redline with all the good stuff