sootman73

were you running resistor plugs then when the vapor wouldn't work on your bike? And did they try that? Sounds like if it doesn't work on my bike they will make it right so i guess its really no risk. Now did you buy yours directly from trail tech? or third party?

Well that really evens it up! i dont know of any better way to keep track of the temps and also have a speedo though. and the data is recordable on the vapor isn't it?

Is a computer from trail tech worth buying? i've done searches on here and some people like them and others seem to have nothing but headaches with them. I found a vapor new on ebay for under $100. Whats the consensus?

The carb slides are dead nuts synced i checked that a few times as i rebuilt the motor and changed jets.

sitting on the bike its the right side cylinder.

What would cause un-even smoking from the exhuast between cylinders? on idle its very noticeable and even worse on the pipe. plus it has a different ping on the right cylinder than the left. they are jetted the same and the needles are in the same location. the plugs are new and the motor was just rebuilt. Any ideas what needs adjusted or gone through?

thanks i just wanted to get the thing started and broke in plus i need to do jetting so i wanted to get them on tight. In the future i will be just getting new stock mounts for it but in the mean time ill have to deal.

well aren't you a bag of sunshine..... i did fix that problem thank you for the help but i have a different issue now. the coolant line is done but I just spent $600 this week on this thing and couldn't justify spending $75 for hangers when no one would see them anyway.

My t5's had no hangers they bolted directly to the frame where the hanger would bolt to. but i made some little hangers with some 1/8" bar stock since the chrome was pointless as the plastics cover it all up anyway. I put some radiator hose pieces in to help absorb vibration but while breaking in the motor last night there was a lot of vibration coming through the handlebars and foot pegs. I unbolted just about everything on the exhaust and it didn't seem to help at all.

I dont have any hangers just the mounting hole tab welded on the expansion chamber. my question is if there is a hanger. and where its touching the hose is right where it connects to the water pump. cant move the hose at all. can i move the pipe somehow? bend it or something? shitty thing is i can't spend any more money on this thing and i already sold and shipped my t5's so i cant even break this motor in

I got a set of FMf fatty's while the bike is down and now that its back together I went to fit the pipes and the mounting bracket on the top of the expansion chamber is 2 inches forward to match up where my T5's were. Is there a hanger or something that im missing? I bought these used off ebay and the seller made no mention that there were any fitment issues. Also the right pipe is very tight against the coolant hose that comes off the water pump area. can the pipe be bent at all because there is no way that i can run this thing like it is. it'll melt through that hose in minutes....

Are there any air filter adapters to k&n that allow me to use the stock air box lid? i really need a lid because I find mud and puddles in woods trails and want to keep the water out of the filter. With the new pistons, cylinders machined, gaskets, pipes, and water pump parts I want to make sure the dirt stays out of the carbs to prevent blowin this thing up again.

Thanks man! I went over there today and talked to Lou. What a guy! He's really helpful and said I was about 4 sizes too small on my main jets by looking at the pistons. plus he's gonna help me get my powerband down lower since I have no bottom end whatsoever. Little more pricey on the machine work but I figure its worth the money to have it done close. I think things turned south about 75% around the pond cuz thats when it stopped running on both cylinders and I had enough rpm to keep er going. but no wonder it wouldn't start after i slowed down and it died.

thought so, ill find out this weekend what the bores measure as I have been told that they have been bored over before by the previous owner but the kid was not very sharp.... Whats the recommendation for a place to have the machine work done? There are alot of site sponsors and I would like one fairly close to northwest ohio to save on shipping.

Well been a long time but finally got some time to take a look at the shee. Re-did compression test on both cylinders and got: Left side - 70psi right side - 15-20 psi Went ahead and tore into it and didn't see any problems with the headgasket where it might have blown, but then I noticed a decent size burr on the right piston. Looked like someone took at hammer to the edge of it. got a mirror and then saw the carnage through the exhaust port. Here's pics of what I found when I removed the jugs. So i'm thinking that the exhaust port needs to be re-chamfered? and then new pistons and rings? and def hone on both cylinders as i dont feel hardly and scratches or gashes that would be cause for boring? I have a list of things that i'm going to replace during the install but as for the main engine components does this sound like a good plan?

Well the tester i''m using is brand new. bought it for this machine and i've only used it about ten times. I meant when the last time i checked the compression was before it quit running on one cylinder once it started acting up i got the low reading. needles and slides all come up as everything in them is new and I have already been through the carbs since this problem. But thanks i hope nothing is serious, a top end rebuild wouldn't be too bad....

Got a compression check on the left side and could only manage 70 psi. throttle all the way open and did it like 5 times cause i couldn't believe it was that low. last time i checked it was 110 what should i check next or should i pull the top end off?

i didn't order it new dude lol i got it for $11 off ebay but i like the design of the stock bumper over the aluminum(worthless against a tree) ones that all look the same. But if you have some rubber ends let me know i'm still interested in them if you got some!

okay ill do that i completely forgot the compression check

Put new plugs in it and got it running on both cylinders most of the time now but no power and i cannot start it by kicking unless i spray a little brake clean into the carbs. im gonna pull the carbs off and inspect them to see if there is dirt in them again just to make sure. whats the next step after that then? at the same time im going to re-pull the tank and see what i can see into the spark plug hole. how much do i have to replace if i pull the head off? eg bolts, gaskets, anything else?

yes there is only one way to install them but the level at which they shut the fuel off needs to be set. if your floats are too high they will float all the way up yet still not seat the needle. there are a few threads on here somewhere that explains how to do this.

well for carbs either the floats stick or they are set wrong. are they pouring gas out the overflow tubes? shut the gas off and see if it will start. if there is no supply there can be no flooding. might still take a few kicks to clean the extra fuel out though.

they are in the right carbs. i never take both slides out at the same time. i take one carb off, disassemble, clean, reassemble, and install. then repeat for the other one. im gonna get new plugs and do a compression check. we'll see what happens.

im asking $150 for it. shipping included. email for pics.

both plugs were pretty fouled but we cleaned them up and swapped them side to side, still no changes. I will try that