old put-put

what jet kit do you have? If you have the dynajet kit, if you are below 5000 ft, install clip in groove #4, top of needle is groove #1, if you are above 5000 ft, clip should be in groove #3, since you only have aftermarket exhaust and k+n filter put jet DPX280, make sure you are changing the main jett, turn the air screw in untill it seats then back it out 2 and a half turns. Did you reinstall the main jet cup? this must be put back in. These directions are straight from the k+n jet kit I installed on my bolt on bike and it works perfectly, GOOD LUCK, hope this helps.

Try dropping your needle one position (raise the clip if you are in the middle go up one) , also if your kit came with the little 1/2 step washer try inbetween.

Thanks, most times when things go really well there is a problem later, so hopefully the struggle bs is over!

I ordered new stock studs and then went to the hardware store and found some 8x1.25x6mm set screws and it was about perfect. Torqued everything down and leak test was good, whoohoo!

what carbs, stock? What jets, what other mods, just pipes, jet kit, and filters?

thanks for the reply, is your setup close to what I have? Kevin said it should be right at 100hp, cain't wait to get it all together to see what it runs like should flat out shit and git!

Wondering what size and number of paddles everyone runs, I've never had paddle tires on anything, but my setup is a stock frame with +6 swinger and a HJR 421 drag ported cub. I hope to have everything put together by Oct. 4 and do a little test and tune ot Little Sahara, I don't know if it will be done in time or not. I'm just not sure what tires to put on this build.

Have run elkas and works, elkas flatout blow the springs off of works hands down!!

Just take the caps off and the slides will come out, should be pretty self explanitory from there.

I've got asr on two different banshees and have held up well.

It held 6 psi for 15 minutes then dropped to 5 psi, in an hour and a half it was about 0, any opinions?

Kevin at HJR built the motor, but fedex mashed it in the delivery process, so I sent the cylinder back and putting the cylinder and head back on, then leak down test so just checking on base gasket and orings and intake.

What did you come up with on the threaded plug on length and how did you thread them in? Did you find some short set screws or something in a 8 x 1.25?

I'm running 15/39 on my 02, with bolt ons don't know top speed but will lite the rear end up pretty much off idle. will leave 12 ft of black mark when hitting sixth gear on pavement.

put a patch down as wide as your tire, do burnout and it will make your tires really tacky to help with the launch. Used it many years ago on drag cars, work well.

When doing a leakdown test how long does the engine need to hold 6 psi to consider it a good seal?

Sand blasted, covered-plug all threaded holes and stuff 1 coat silver metalic, 1 coat transparent reddish orange, 2 coats clear,= $203

Just ordered stock studs from rmatv. the old ones were pretty nasty looking any way still usable but don't look the best. I read that someone on here just didn't screw them in as far and held up fine with blue locktite. This whole build thing is causing me stress, everytime thing start to go well something else goes to shit, but what ya gonna do I'm very impatient about these things. How long does the average build take? I took a basicly stock 96 tore it down to nuts and bolt completely and started ordering parts and off to the powder coat shop, everything but cases, frame, fuel tank (new dual pingel) for it, and wiring harness, stripped the tors wire bull shit off, all else is new. Can anyone say "money, money, moooonnneeeyy" All for something that will probably scare the living shit out of me and park it. I'm too damn old to do shit like this, but gotta have fun building it, and will look good.

Finally got it apart and luckily it was the nut and stud that striped out , not the cylinder. Whew, I thought I had big problems, just ordered new studs and getting new nuts. Don't know if i should get the acorns that stripped out or just get the regular nuts. any thoughts, I know that the acorns won't need siliconed but the regular I've never had strip, so what should i do, what to do, what to do as usual everything has to be a struggle.

Are you talking about the transfer bar, that joins the frame behind the motor, not the connecting rod that connects to the swing arm? If so there are two bushings that drive into the end that connects to the frame that can be replaced along with the bolts and such.

yeah the problem is they won't backout , just my luck fedex fucked it up, finally got new parts start to rebuild the rebuild and now this, WTF!!

what do you torque your noss coolhead nuts to? The 20 ftlbs the factory settings is somewhat of a problem 5 ok 10 ok 15 problem, two of the studs are turning i guess, but will not get tighter, so now what they will not back out, just turn, this is in a new cub cylinder. any help would be appreciated.

Kevin at HJR built my 1-5 n down, and told me that you could let off the throttle without pulling clutch just don't do it at 10,000 rpm.

I was thinking of running a 17/38 on a +4 421 cub with drag port by HJR with +6 swinger and 20-11-10 tires to try and see what it feels like.