ride.race.live

My bud runs the alb LT arms and had 0 problems... Im highly confident that its your steering stop as Toy and I mentioned.

Permitting you got actual banshee a arms on... there shouldnt be any issues. They will come close but shouldnt hit. Just more so poor design of the chassis more then anything...

your steering stop is more then likely worn out / bent causing you to over steer. they really should of gusseted that stopper. Try banging it back in place with a punch... or just dont over steer. the bike I had did it all the time until i banged back the stopper... as you ride the stop will bend back... pretty annoying but just a shit design from yam on that part.

Yea.. as the guys said... those plug locks are a joke and the fact that trinity even created such a thing is a horror story in its own. If your pushing plugs out you have issues with the motor.... trinity can't design domes worth a neutered dogs left nut... Quit riding it or your not going to see past 3.5 hours on the motor

that just means its making REAL POWA

OHHH now this should be interesting! havent heard anyone ask about those in AGES Why in the hell are you even looking for those to begin with lol

What kind of dirt flat track racing are you doing. Everyone here is assuming your running oval.... which in that case they would be right If your racing in tighter tracks with hard turns and hairpins... your going to find yourself fighting the motor if its too top end oriented.

ive seen motowoz far and few between.. def an under rated shock from what I hear. that color is def nice!

yea... I'd say the stage 3's are solid and do well

If your looking other shocks too... I'd HIGHLY recommend Stadium suspension... IMO way better shocks all around but their also $$$$$$$$$ (Canadian company as well)

looks nice a bright! what color plastics you going with? Is that PC or paint?

Hmmm carefull here if your running those "stroker" pistons with the .060 base gasket I think that corrects the height so you don't need cut domes.... I will say though that there's a HIGH chance your port timings are all out of what running it as is. Wont cause damage but could make tuning a nightmare and wont run half as good as it could

check your float level. research what setting they should be at (no idea what carbs you have) and make sure their set. Also make sure the needle valve is clean and free of debris... a q tip with a LITTLE bit of toothpaste will polish the tube and ensure its clean

LOL... nope.. Quebexico..... but at that point by the time you get him to port your cylinders.... you could have a whole new as cast Driveline top end for the same cost to your door.

Sometimes its worthwhile getting a fresh start.... (been there done that and would of probably saved me a bit of coin in the long haul) You need to verify what the porting on those cylinders are for (drag, trail ect) getting the port timings would be able to give us a general idea of what they were ported for to some extent. Now ontop of that being said, I wouldn't waste money shipping those cylinders to a builder in the US to see if they can be massaged or "tuned" Shipping is expensive enough for us and your still risking a call back saying "nothing I can do" as porting was done too far. Again this is something that could be somewhat figured out by knowing the current port timings. If your gun ho on going 4mil and the current cyls are for sure for a stock stroke, sell the current cylinders and get a virgin set or better yet as Toybreaker said go get a full Driveline set up. Going new with a full set up from a specific builder your going to save yourself A LOT of headaches and guessing compared to figuring out whats going to work with your current mystery motor set up..... again from experience I heavily recommend going this route.

He's a Quebecois... you shouldn't expect anything less. They like to be different

You could get a hold of a good few site sponsors on here but they wont be able to hold your hand through the whole process. As far as your location for builders, your pretty limited in my opinion on reputable shops that know the banshee well enough to be able to give you any kind of logical input. (im just East of Ottawa) I tend to deal with FAST now and days when I have any questions but I have spent some $$$ there. Who did your porting and roughly what kind of porting was done? Was it done properly for a 4mil? if you have a proper built 4mil you cant just run any off the shelf domes. contacting a builder with your port specs would be the best route to take to ensure you land where you want it to be as far as compression goes and other more specific specs such as squish ect... for jetting... im not super familiar with stock carbs but i'd say you would be around 27.5 to maybe a 30 pilot and i'd start off with a 380 main which should be rich (someone correct me if im wrong)

Your going to need to verify your jetting to start with... what shop did the mods / jetting? (non the less its going to be the 1st thing guys here will ask about as that could cause the issue) Also what gearing are you running?

lol looks like that box taken some abuse next up.... wrong bolt pattern!

well for starters could be lean with pipes.... you more then likely need at the least 27.5 pilots when did this issue start ? did it just start doing it after installing pipes or did it start randomly out of no where and no changes where made

its a nice touch as long as NOTHING can get in and is a tight seal... otherwise its going to always be wet in there and rust the bolt out to shit down the road

I def like the new lower arm style shock mount better look wise. But I 100% prefer the old style sealed ball joint like I have mind you apparently not as durable long term according to fireball however it was easier to maintain and rebuild as there was more so just a teflon basket that would need to be changed

nothin but love from me,.

lol psh

well considering its a street bike.. technically the wider the stance the more stable its going to be.... You could go as far as +3 arms and extended axle upgraded shocks will greatly help prevent body roll and smoother power transition if you get on it. You are going to be limited when it rains as far as traction goes, these bikes like to float at higher speeds because they are light... and running cookie cutter tires can kind of suck any other time For tires you have plenty of options.. gold speeds or even some hoosiers .. you would just have to look at what options would be best. Also considering your doing mostly road... try and find a place that can balance your tires on the rims or look up balancing beads or what not... I think that would pay off in a lot of ways