ride.race.live

The shock's arn't pre built and shipped to the service centers in the US... most of those places should have the supplies in stock to build shocks in house and get shipped out. The Canadian warehouse im sure supplies all their service centers with the supplies needed but I highly doubt there's 1 shop that builds / assembles all their shocks.

I am starting to think the elka distribution shop in the US is being run by chimps from the sound of it. (elka has a Canadian and a US production shop last I checked) Because 3 of my close friends got the legacy series kit 1 for ltr 450 1 for a raptor 700 and another for a kfx 450. and all 3 bikes run smooth and perform very well with the elkas. I did spend some time with then dialing in the shocks for their bikes (out of the box they where abit all over on the settings) but the shocks werent even close to as bad as what people are claiming from the US. their shocks performed just as well as another bike (450r) that was running floats with a rebuilt / valved rear.

dont bother trimming wire ends till you get the new caps in that case. if you trim the wire and it still shows some rust / corrosion keep trimming bits until its clean.. if its all shit through out... either get new plug wires or a whole new OEM coil which is aprox 97 bucks or so.

curious. you did remove the caps right? if you did you should trim a little bit off the coil wire to ensure a clean contact re installing them. also if your not getting a reading on one of the boots odds are its shot and needs to be changed. Boots are a easy and cheap swap regardless.. Boots can cause all sorts of odd problems small and big... i'd say its a cheap enough insurance and super simple thing to swap out and try. You have 2 options for plug boots TB05EMA is what most guys run or Radarracing a reputable member on here has been using LB05EP for boots and claims they have given him less issues ( I personally never got to try those yet though but did plan on buying those if I ever needed to replace the ones I got) Also note... you should test the plug boots right out of the box.... I ended up getting 1 bad boot out of 4 that where brand new in box.

one side seems pretty light vs the other. pull plugs see what they look like. maybe even ohm plug caps should ohm under 5K

are you getting even smoke out of both pipes.. its sounding like its running on 1 cyl.

considering you got the 10mil with shearers id prob just recommend getting the SLP's. youl have 1 big motor with high end oriented pipes and another motor that will be ideal for MX / trails. you could always throw on the shearers on this one if you ever wanted to change it up for a weekend or what not if you dont plan on running the 10

hes going to end up scaring off anyone else left lingering that zillafreak was unable to scare off lol

There's a chroming place in Montreal I was in touch with a few years back for my shearers and they where willing to do them even when used. Wasnt cheap though

unless she's really rich and makes more then you... lol But yea I know my account is staying separate.

haha reason I added that little zinger in my reply... "SHOULD" be better haha...

Roll arms are / should be definitely higher quality a arms. Fox shocks are solid shocks... I wouldn't worry about your weight AS LONG AS their set up to your weight and specs.... if the shocks are lets say set up for a 140lbs rider and you are 3x that weight... well your not giving the shocks much of a chance and your going to destroy them lol

their shocks are def solid... but forget any kind of "custom" applications for your generic riding styles and CS can helpish if you got a very common standard set up lol. I know for sure loco has been through the loop with them as his suspension is a 1 off set up and not your avg or standard LT build. I'll always refer people to stadium and 2nd elka for that main reason.

fox customer service -

I didnt read through the whole thread yet.. but I dont get how his high priced arms bent like that... when I rolled my bike WOT in 5th or 6th I slightly bent the chassis, ripped my axle out of the swinger etc but never damaged the arms.... the impact warped all 3 rotors and popped the beads off the tires too lol... I also slammed into a wall ice racing and broke the A arm at a weld (they didnt even bend) .. so seems to me this "high priced" company is skimping on their material.

ohhh gotcha yeah haha. yea I think it was only from like 2010 or some BS.... I remember seeing a date just dont remember what dates exactly

Yeah.. it wasnt the cleanest of "mods" as I just sprayed some kind of airsol glue shit to stick it lol but worked well.. Uh didnt I give you a full package of that exhaust wrap? or did I go stingy and keep it LMFAO... FYI... I went through my shop looking for my ohm meter.. tore the place apart head to toe... still no fuckin skid plate! I can't see myself selling it without the damn mounts lol Yea USPS is nice for shipping a lot of the times you dont get dinged (permitting the value of parcel being shipped doesnt stick out.. or is shipped as a gift (which then has to be valued under 100 or even 50$ if I remember right. I actually got a letter in the mail a few weeks ago about UPS... their going through a class action lawsuit because of the brokerage / customs fee's they were charging people.. (100$ item and 200 in fee's type of BS) well see how much money i get back in the mail for all those BS fee's ive paid over the years from US shops not listening and using UPS and not USPS when shipping shit to me.

nice! Also if you check the 10cub youl see I added a "pad" at the back near the end of the filters... it prevents them from bouncing around and also prevents them from wearing out on the frame. Maybe over kill but something to take a peek at... make sure you wrap your exhaust stingers... they end up pretty close to the filters

LOL... that would help....

I got to Canadian tire testers at home and both read the same and have read within the proper specs when I tested electrical crap. also when guns ohmed tested his coil (without boots) it ohmed numbers within spec... Low battery on them will cause them to read funny but yea.

awesome no expensive fix.... still would figure out why you couldn't ohm the stator properly though in my opinion lol

LMFAO...... YOU ARE LISTENING TO THAT VORTEX PRODUCING FRENCH CANADIAN???? COME ON CHIEF..... YOU KNOW BETTER THAN THAT! Hey.... im just going by what im seeing... If the tester is set up properly the readings he posted show that the stator is pooched... no 2 ways around it... so I don't get why no one is taking any attention to that.... seems like its a no brainer there unless the settings on tester arn't correctm, the stator should test 13.5 to 20ish if I remember right.... also the fact that his coil ohmed out properly within spec (the test he did without plug caps) figure he had the right setting...

Claude I had the chariot extended thumb lever. I never noticed any tension difference when I went from my 35's to 39's. But I will say it took some time to get a hang of the extended thumb lever.

Maybe... but I have never forgotten to tighten my PTO nut or flywheel nut guns4children style

Yea thats for sure... I dont know now, but they used to offer some time for a tech to watch you rip around a track or a strip of a rut section ect to see how they perform and make adjustments to the shocks to get them dialed in. I think some of their "finish" quality (not build or product quality) its almost like at some point they lost their main peep that was able to get them dialed in properly. I'll also say stadium suspension has been AWESOME.. ive rode on a few different bikes with their shocks and has left me speechless. They re did my oem rear banshee shock a while back to their specs and it was spot on. Even making adjustments to the pre load and rebound where WAY more responsive. If I had the cash and wanted high end shocks.. I wouldn't think twice and opt to their stuff.