ride.race.live

raise your needle 1 clip see if it gets worse or better... if it gets worse well go down 1 from middle afterwards your pilot seems ok. main seems in the ball park... also what setting is your AF screw at as that does have an effect through out your range though minimal above 1/4 throttle. read through this post on this link.... it has helped me out a ton when i 1st started http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/carbtuning.php

you need to specify what you really want then... you want show bling... or performance? or chassis upgrades etc... not really clear on what your shooting for when you say "old school" can get a nice 4mil built with shearers / chromed a nice billet head. billet intake boots and lock up see through clutch, billet covers all around etc.... the list can be endless... can go as far as + size stem chromed +2arms round house swinger. braid brake lines . drag cut harness, relocated CDI box to under seat. seat skin. etc....

you need to list what you already have and what motor etc... keep list simple... VF4 reeds FMF pipes Stock carbs... etc...

nah not stock port timing... but dune porting it will... cant really compare a stock 4m serval on pump... to a ported 4mil serval on race

huh.... last i checked pump gas serval where in the mid 90's...... https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/189428-90hp-redline-pump-gas-421-serval-duner/&page=1

thats odd.. the customer support ive gotten with them has always been solid but then again its been a solid 5+ years since ive dealt.. prob some new shit heads running the place now

thread topic..... once you surpased the 1st 3 posts you should of gotten your answer.... from there on out.... let the fun begin

man im so happy i bought mine when our dollar was at par and going for 650... lol...

Fireball a arms ... ommited? Last time i checked they also offered a lifetime warranty on the arms as well... sure pricey but atleast you got the warranty to back you

yup

the only way your going to get better at launching is trial and error... what gear and rpm you launch on all depends on over all bike set up... from tires to chassis to motor... what sprockets to run is another thing that all depends on track length... heck even track condition ... from dirt to asphalt etc... most guys playing with their clutch adjustments are running hefty motors and create a "zone" of clutch slippage. for a harder high rpm launch without ended up flat on their back .

ive always done it as well as anyone else I know in the racing scene... is it better or worse... no idea... but its the quickest way as there's no clutch pull delay. you need to go out and just ride and self develop... no one here can truthfulyl fully help you unless you plan on moding your clutch or something

once ya find sweet spot for launching.... see above comment... forget using clutch after launching... just let off a bit and shift... only time i used my clutch in a race was for the launch, if I had to come to a stop and or feather the clutch to keep rpms up (which you shouldn't need to do in a drag race)

in the past I jimmy rigged a "suction" hose... i could explain what i did but I just found this which is straight to the point If you have an air compressor and a air gun and some extra fuel line laying around you can get it done... the fuel line is a good size and easy to maneuver inside the cases to clean it all out.... that way you can drop some pre mix down in the bottom end suck it out... repeat until happy... No need to be lifting and shacking the shit out of a complete bottom end. hell you can even do it with the motor in the frame

just saw this post... haha cheers mang! was a day filled with full time baby watching and servicing the wife LOL

Yea nothing worse then a guy loosing control of his bike on a hard turn when your on his ass or have him spin out into you because he wasnt properly set up. sure it happens regardless but there's a definitely a big difference when its set up vs not.

good catch.. I went and assumed he was ok with knobbies.... lol... I know around here most "back yard" racing events are almost a free for all. The issue with back yard racing events is.... poorly set up bikes can cause havoc on the track... ive seen guys show up to race at events and get bitched out by other rides for not being properly set up to run the track as that person becomes an obstacle and liability on the track for himself and others. A big reason why a lot of places but in certain "rules / requirements" for the bikes .

everything is different in one way or another... a custom cut dome is designed specifically to run best with your motor specs. Claude mentioned the more popular known changed specs of what they alter in a dome...

The thing is.. the better you are set up the more fun your going to have. right now as is... your going to have a hell of a time taking hard times while keeping the speed. I would for sure look for some lower profile tires.. esp considering you have 22" tires on there. and go from there. If you did consider the drop kit down the road... it takes 10 mins to do the front and maybe 10 for the rear.

high profile tires will make your bike extremely "tippy". for flat track you want low profile tires.... 19 fronts 18 rears is the more popular choice for flat track . for now typically any tire would work for you at the mentioned profile but ofcourse actual TT tires would definitely benefit you (also depends on what kind of dirt track) also a cheap alternative to lowering your bike one of those drop kits. Now there's nothing wrong with using those on a budget.. I actually always used the rear lowering link as well as MANY others do. the front links are somewhat MEH as your much better off with proper shocks but yea. If you can get your hands on atleast lower profile tires and a drop kit.. youl be fairly comfortable for a starter.

hahaha... i think it was a lack off.....

want to join the pen 15 club?

I think the variance is lot more then that claude. most builders around me have always recommended and used the clay to do squish. Less chances of inaccurate readings. have you ever done 5 plus squish test on the same cyl... you usually always get a few that give "off" readings. Any high end drag motors use clay as well.. def not measured with flux core solder

Clay is supposed to be the optimal / accurate way to measure squish

.038 is a little tight from what most run. Also the solder squish test isn't a perfect reading. from what ive been told it can vary + or - a few decimals.... in this case... you definitely wouldn't want it to me any tighter... and 100% with skeeter lol..... and i know from experience