ride.race.live

So this issue has happened twice so far. the 1st time around was when i was getting the bike ready (both tires went cock stiff) and all i did was crack the top banjo and it released them. I figured the MC was just over full (as it was over the full mark) so I drained / bled them again and they felt good / better. i'd say about 5 hours in of ride time and it happened again this time it was while he was riding he mentioned his bike was hard to push but never thought anything of it at the time until mid ride his front wheels went solid.... so this time around it took a bit before they fully locked up. Not sure how he released the pressure on his outing but I would assume it was at the MC as well. He did say his right tire fully locked while the left was stiff but not fully locked.

Sounds good No he got fireball j arms and needed longer hoses. Only thing that changed.

Yea its 2 separate lines going to the 1 long banjo.

Yea its both sides and he has brand new streamline dual brake lines. reason im somewhat leaning on a funky MC.

My buddy's front brakes on his banshee are hydro locking. I would assume their not seizing as when he releases the pressure through one of the zerks they go soft again and work for a bit until they buil up pressure again. any ideas on whats going on? I was thinking maybe his MC is messing up?

only one from hinson id buy is their spring loaded clutch with straight cuts..... yes expensive but durable as hell and no damn cushions to worry about!

ive never seen that! jesus.... maybe on a 250R frame as their already know to take a shit just looking at them.... but never heard or seen that happen on other bikes. Streamlines 11 way rebuild able stabilizer works great for the cost... ran one on all the bikes ive owned.

yea but you rewind back to HM's prime here on bhq and the forums were plentyfull of stupid people too lol...

your squish is way out of whack... .060 is wayyy to big for a stock motor to begin with. 1st off you need to make sure you got the right base gasket. and pistons at that... once you narrow down your squish issue... then do a compression test... because a that much variance in squish can effect compression.

slow down the compression of the shock if its too fast your not getting good weight transfer and it will just slam down and lift... or your compression is too stiff and its not compressing at a good enough rate it took me a lil bit ti dial in my 10cub the few times I had it out with a -1 swinger. also another biggie is too aggressive studded tires SOME slip isn't bad.. will also prevent from spitting studs / tearing lugs. sick hybrid non the less!!!

what needle at what clip? and 25 pilot.. i hope you mean 52? which would make sense.

what pipes are you running? its easier for peeps to figure stuff out with a full motor details... what needle and pilot turns on AF screw. Compression..... sea level.... pods? airbox? OEM stator or an aftermarket? You confirmed / verified that the float level is to spec. timing? even the temps your riding in could have an effect... if you jetted your bike in warmer temps and the temps have cooled some... you could be on the lean side..

do a 1-3 then but make sure you run through 3rd fully. make sure you pull clutch and shut down before you stop.

Are you sure your doing the plug chop right? warm up bike on old plugs then swap to new plugs.. do 1 solid hard pull right through to 6th gear peak rpm then pull clutch and kill motor. once you come to a stop change out plugs back to the old ones and go back to shop and chop plugs.... those 1st plugs look like you rode around on them..

for the love of god... do some research on builders here ...... USE FAST (he will build it in a timely fashion and GREAT to deal with and easy to get a hold off) lets leave it at that.

if you want to do it right.... do it from scratch and get NEW PARTS.... leave the used junk with the junk...

if you want the best money can buy.... pick up phone... call your builder of choice. (which many of can recommend our preferred preferences) Talk to builder on what you want and build you want. That way your going to save a shit ton on piecing it together by the time you pay for shipping on 50 different parts... get it all said and done at 1 place then ship it to you whole.... a full motor costs around 120-200 TO SHIP depending on how much you insure it for. Now that you have your motor atleast... its time for chassis.... some do custom TI chassis or you just get a full throw in motor LSR chassis which would be the simplest and quickest. NOW that your bike is done.... deal with the add ons light DOT approved parts (tires, lights etc) which are obtained in Canada. THEN move on with the process for paper work on getting it street plated. FINISH the bike build then do the paper work for legalizing it.... don't try and do both at once.. your going to get lost with too much happenin.

your not the 1st in canada to do it as weve seen one already floating around here lol... build a banshee for 20K canadian and call it a day..... if your coming on here for help to legalize a bike on the streets your already going backwards... this is going to take COUNTLESS calls to the licensing bureaus and reading through countless regulations. Did you even do the 1st most basic thing.... finding an insurance company WILLING to insurance a sport ATV on the road IF it gets blue plated....

yea... he was being a twat about that.... almost made me wonder if he was full of it or not lol. not like it really matters if your street legal... your going to be a major heat score and get pulled over constantly... 12k for that street build is nuts lol

a hydro clutch will still have some pull to it... ive had a magura and it was stiffer then expected.. .ended up selling it as the master cyl was leaking. I found the streamline hydro clutch was smooth but lacked adjustment for the clutch pull

Broken coffee machine as for 375's comment.... that could very well be possible... no one except quebecois like quebec lol... the land of rusted out hatch back honda civics with an exhaust and oversized spoilers

fun fact of the day... let that last little line sink in for a minute too.... US trade with the province of Ontario alone is bigger than with all of Japan. Canada is the largest foreign market for US goods and services. Millions of US jobs depend on Canadian imports from the US. Canada is the leading foreign source of energy supplied to the US.

so seems like your going in the right direction. Try going to 1 and 3/4 turn on fuel screw or even turn it out to 2 turns from lightly seated and see how that does. and report back

check this site out... go over it... it can definitely be your needle setting... http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/carbtuning.php

i also replied the same thing sheerider said in your other thread.... yes it will make it richer... 99% of the guys here will always tell you to go richer.. as to not risk a big lean out and cause damage... always go richer.. if the issue worsens then you know its too rich....