ride.race.live

11.5 12 if it has a boost bottle

You can use Imgur.com to upload pics n what not its a hosting website... you can direct link it to here and it will work

hehehe.... dbz ftw

I will say ive been sent items before anything was actually fully paid.... but at the time I was a repeat high volume customer...

Tyler.. I know your not shy to do whats needed and I know your EXTREMELY lenient on whats posted and let people say what they believe ect without ban hammer repercussions which is a biggie!.... putting this all aside like anywhere a builder / sponsor will be favored over a customer on here (its normal, its always been like that and ofcourse you cant keep everyone happy) The reason i brought up funds is because people are saying its only 350$ cut your losses and move on... NO ONE just willfully takes a loss for no reason (when they believe their in the right) Yes I do tend to favor the customer because I was personally in a situation with a sponsor and my issues got throw out the window because "there's no way a builder can do wrong" heck a shit ton of members ended up contacting me personally after wards saying they had identical issues but never posted just to save face on here.... if the final invoice was NEVER 100% settled / reviewed between builder and customer (which should of been done even before the motor hit the dyno) so be it that DOES make a difference... not one customer or builder can 100% promise its going to stay within budget or estimate... however it is up to the builder to keep track and keep the customer up to date on that not wait to the last minute once shit hits the fan to say well you actually still ow me for.......... the second the customer was contacting you on a reg basis should of been a red flag from the start.... instead they chose to ignore?... still a few BS issues on the table that shouldn't of ever happened either way... I know shit happens but damn....

Typical response from members when it comes to a sponsor with issues... been there done that.... I dont get how people arn't following the OP (more like they don't want to) .... sent a motor asked to go over porting improve where ya can sent cash upfront for the pre planned work including a dyno run (wouldnt it be great if it was RE PORTED and LOST HP LOL, I Know most of us here can think of a certain builder that used to be here that had that happen) then sent additional $$$ to get some unknown at the time cobbled parts fixed. So now Kan is trying to justify not refunding $$ for the dyno time by charging time to install / remove motor out of dyno chassis (which should of been pre charged in the initial build invoice upfront (also apparently dyno chassis / motor was ready to go for 4 months but yet the dyno wasn't plugged in / working.... sorry but this guy is getting hosed and kan is hiding behind a paid sponsorship and nut swingers. everything was paid for and was AGREED BY BUILDER to run the motor on the dyno for 350 (which would account for the install / removal of motor on dyno chassis) 2400 for a cub rebuild within the US isnt that cheap... it cost me 2500 CAD to rebuild my 10 cub which involved nika, new domes and crank rebuild.... (which included retarded shipping costs to the US and back to me) no matter the amount OP paid for a service that he didn't get... sure as fuck i'd be pissed and wanting my cash back... im sure as hell Loco don't give out free hand outs either (cause rich people are stingy fucks with money and loco you claim to be well off so lets face it.....)

TSS is how

100% agreed!!!! id be livid! Heck I know when I shipped brandon my motor and he shipped it back we went over various options on how to ship it to make sure I was ok with it! covered his ass if anything happen at the same time....

hahaha and would you look on that.... Im still not a fan o(everyone has their opinion) but yea... ... IMO shouldnt of accepted work or should of advised of that kind of delay to begin with... and slow responses (royally sucks) a building willing to work with junk parts... ehhh... there's a reason if a builder refuses to use certain parts.... to ignore 1 builder to make another builder use it is a joke.

Reason I would never ask who to send a motor too on the BHQ Facebook group..... no way of telling who's a knowledgable member and hose some newbie nut swinger to some newbie builder with MAJORLY questionable ethics on these motors. If you would of done a post on here on who to send your motor to.... Kan wouldn't of even made the list nor been recommended by any reputable member here

Welll DDQ got HOSED the last time he sent his shocks to custom axis lol... Your missing the bump stops on those from what i see too so def get them re done to the a arms specs.... you may want to find out if the current spring rates are going to work with the arms you want.... changing out springs can get $$$$$$ for example i got quad rate stage 1 elkas.. it be just as expensive to go back to new stage 1's vs re springing both

Shocks are built around arm specs.

Heres the new style lower shock mount that they recommend 19.25" Heres the "older" style that they recommend from now on 18.5"

DDQ... I find the lower shock mount style that actually goes through the arm is superior to just a tab welded onto the top portion. I am not sure 100% but if you look at the pictures of the new style it seems like the mount is ROUGHLY 1" lower and 1" closer to the actual hub. (would answer why they now are back recommending 19.25" shocks) Here's the little bit of confusion I personally had from what I remember..... back in 06-07 fireball recommended 19.25' shocks for their LT arms. a few years later they started recommending 18.50. I had their old Heim style arms back then... after a crash I bought some new style ones (same as DDQ now) and mentioned I still have the 19.25 shocks and said I would be fine and typically anything in the 18.5 to 19.5" range would work fine. I think they did a bit more testing and found the 18.5" may have been better with their specific specs / valving / spring rate? no idea on why they changed that but this is what I figure...

Yeah... im shocked they didnt go to a lower shock mount style like that earlier on.... half tempted to update my arms to those (if I actually rode lol) but I do prefer the sealed ball joints like the ones I got... though apparently people weren't maintaining them properly so they stopped making them

You will be able to ride much faster and longer in just investing into suspension / chassis components vs jacking up your motor with shit stock suspension.... the motor wont be "faster" per say but youl be able to get more power to the ground and actually use it with proper suspension / arms. just me .02

lmao... jesus... im with DDQ on this.... people wanting more adjustments on their shocks but yet cant even dial in standard adjustable shocks.... that coupled with not knowing what to ask for when buying shocks. "rides bumpy trails and asks for MX valving? rides average trails and asks for XC valving? all about budget when comes to suspension..... Elka's stage 3 KIT is next to impossible to beat for your best bang for your buck... but there are other options depending what you want and how much you want to spend

about 1400 more lol... permitting you already had a lock up and straight cuts

You probably should of went to 10 mil lol

And thats where you fucked up! lol... ya should of went big at the very least on your 2nd build LOL.... something like I did.... stock stroke ported motor... to a 10mil cub (the go to trail build these days)

Fireball, ALBA LT, laeger ect.... all have gull wing style a arms... so yes...... fireball does have that "max" ground clearance gull wing style a arm... Fireball doesnt quite have the same gull wing style but still considered gull wing.... Fireball arms run one of the most longest shocks for a banshee on LT arms... Laeger ect all run 17.5" if I rememeber right.... doesnt mean it offers more travel though... just becuase you go from a 17.5" shock to a 19.5" doesnt mean your gaining travel one bit... from my exp the only real upside to fireball is the pre load sag.... meaning it takes longer for your front tires to get off the ground vs other LT arm styles that dont utulize as much zpl sag

what bike do you have right now thats bogging out after 10 mins... did you change anything and then it started doing it... or did it just start doing it out of no where. Loosing coolant?

Alright.... so it could be over heating or developing an electrical issue once hot... or be something as basic as needing a carb clean from partially clogged jets. Thats not a 4 stroke "breaking on you" all the time.. its the same issue you cant fix or figure out. Any other bike can and will come up with issues sooner or later... Not trying to be negative or bash you but... owning toys... this will be part of the game... unless you go new and stay with new unmolested toys

what exactly is taking a shit on you when you ride it? im actually curious..