ride.race.live

easiest way I found to tune needle is to play around in the 1/4 throttle area and aim for a smooth transition as you roll into the throttle (not stab it) your not going to have that motor with CPI's come alive at low rpm putting around and stabbing the throttle its going to load up and hesitate unless you feather the clutch to pick up rpms. usually or atleast from what ive found if you can get a smooth transition in the low end your uptop from 3/4 to wot follow suit permitting your main is where it needs to be.

2 strokes can be a little touchy under load. the new build may actually fix that and have the power to keep the bike "loose" through the whole turn. sometimes a gearing change can help if your too high up in gear and the tires are loose hitting traction puts a too big load on the motor and slows it down just enough to prevent it from keeping loose. he can also practice slipping the clutch you usually typically can feel and hear when the bike is loosing that "power" and RPM range to keep loose. i had to do it quite frequently ice racing on a banshee. and would usually always keep a finger on my clutch in a turn and just put enough pressure when needed to get the RPMS back up quickly. Just note slipping the clutch can be tricky while you do increase the rpms you are technically putting less power down to the ground which can also cause loss of momentum on a hard turn. When possible taking wider turns at higher speeds also seemed to better suite my bike and allowed me to maintain a better pace and rpm range / gear. depends on rider and bike of course though. by no means am I a seasoned racer and been out of the game for quite some time but I've definitely had that happen to me and while I didn't perfect it I did work on some solutions and the ones mentioned seemed to work the best for me.

Contact Elka directly and they should tell you. But throwing on a X" shock that matches the required length isnt going to give you the proper ride or performance. the shock still needs to be built / tuned to the rider and bike. By the time you add in the cost of new springs and re valving to spec your more then likely not far off from just buying a new one.

well what.. you dont live off of tuna sammiches or burgs anymore?

10/10 would drink with them anytime of the week tho. bud with claude and tuna sammiches and vodka shots with ddq

Yeah Claude I saw the videos everything seemed spot on except when he mentioned the plug tolerances being 5-10k. didnt make sense to me. Ill try adding a ground from the motor to the frame and see how that goes as well! Seansy when i took out the VF3 reeds and re installed the stock reeds i inspected the bottom end and there was no abnormal amount of fuel down there. (so ive tested 2 separate reed cages) i can double check the wire harness but it is a brand new harness for South Texas Banshee.

wut you talkin aboot willis... my old 10mil is with Canadianshee lol. im working on a locals banshee... bought a 1987 in 100000 pieces.... bought a motor from a sponsor as the one he had was beyond fucked. now dealing with a miss fire lol

thanks for checking!!!! and good call on the tags haha. So from the looks of things a coil is not the issue on this bike.... UGH... back to the drawing board. guess next thing to try is swapping flywheel at this point.

yeah i got the clymers. it already shows wrong info on how to check a coil. the info i got so far was from blowit on here when doing a search on how to test coil (he's the one that mentioned when testing secondary with caps it would test higher) but i can not find for the life of me what the actual tolerance is for just the boots. I always though it was 5K or under... then i read some places its 5K+ within reason. so now im back to being as clueless as skeeter when he was 21. (didnt think i could hit rock bottom that hard )

With the boots on it will range from 15ishK ohm. without boots its 4.7-7.1k without boots its reading 6.5k so thats fine. and primary is bouncing from 3-4 which is within spec im just not sure if the boots should read at or just below the 5k or at and just above 5k.

Ok can someone confirm this one... When testing a plug boot.... should it OHM UNDER 5k or above 5K within a tolerance..... did some digging and mixed views on that matter. right now i got one boot at 4.56 and another at 6.87

I have og reeds next thing going on. Yeah i should of just done carbs 1st but they were due. Pipes are clesr re insected them Didnt try orher carbs yet no. Single filter but im testing it with no air box just straight carbs

soo little update... i did leak down test again passed. i switched reeds sides rebuilt carbs The issue seemed to have followed the reed to some extent.... now Mag side is miss firing a bit (not as bad as pto side) but it is... so i guess only thing to blame for that is the reeds which i can't wrap my head around considering it has brand new pedals and when i took them out they looked spotless. also another thing to note... PTO side is still smoking like a siv and spitting fuel. but atleast its getting up to temp unlike mag side now. what could be wrong with the reeds?

Thanks! i just got the carb rebuild kit in so ill be doing that set up. im hoping its just a fubar float needle that isnt sealing 100% (enough to seal when not running but when motor running floods out the motor) long reach but hoping its that simple lol Otherwise ill prob take out reeds inspect and swap them sides to see if issue follows reeds. I also got a buddy that can loan me spare carbs so i can rule out the carb. i triple checked the reeds when i put them together as the reeds where out of a blown motor and were a little messy with shavings I had to clean them a good few times to get them spotless.

haha tried that actually no luck!

Brand new pilots from RMATV. even double checked them. carbs been gone through 3 times lol. going to be a 4th time once rebuild kit on the way so i can change dump tube and float needle.

tried that it just dies out or bogs down pulling the choke while its running. I'll double check the bowls but highly unlikely as i usually only remove 1 at a time.

took pipe off there was no obstructions that i could see. could jam something in the stinger to see if its clear but no debris or anything when i reved the motor up.. aside from the miss fire causing the pipe to be wet there was no fuel puddle in it. the bike sat without the gas tank on it for most of the winter as well so it didnt "self flood"

So went and installed used VF he had on another motor with brand new reeds and re jetted to a 27.5 pilot as the previous 30 pilot was way rich. Came to start the bike to fine tune the air screw and idle and its miss firing on PTO cylinder. Its popping smoking tons spitting fuel. pipe only gets warm to the touch. FMF pipes durablue pro flow intake no lid and lightened flywheel is only mods. Jetting is 270M middle clip and went from 30 to 27.5 pilots. TORS removed Bike ran great before parked for season. tank was emptied and added 1 gal of fresh fuel mixed 32:1 carbs are synced and have been cleaned a couple times now. (air leak jet and all) ive tried playing with air screw and idle to see if the miss fire would go away no luck Swapped around plug boots and problem stays on the same cylinder both have new plugs even tried another new plug no change Ohmed stator and was within spec. Pick up gap is on spec Swapped cdi's no change 120 psi each cyl slides are in right and choke tube is on (bike wont run without it let alone start) I got a carb rebuild kit on the way and i'll adjust float height once thats in but i doubt that would be the cause Leak down test was done previously before motor ran last year and I 1211 the intake gaskets so there's no way he's getting an air leak in the intake track. Ground is intact everything is plugged in (aside from TORS brain) and it doesnt have a rear brake light. Wire harness is brand new from last year as well. Next step im guessing would be to swap reed cages sides and see if issue follows the reed cage for what ever reason, re adjust float height and another leak down but aside from that and swapping flywheel and stator am I missing anything?

Season around the corner got a replacement master and so far brakes havent locked up. but well see when he gets some ride time in... new post incoming as there's a new issue that popped up doing some pre season TLC

Banshee has been parked for winter but getting it back in the next couple weeks to do a pre season tune up with vf reeds n stuff. Looking at buying another mc to start with and go from there. Ill definitely report back lol

Part of me thinks its his Master. but time will tell!. May get in touch with Streamline to see... the front brakes locking up on you isn't all that safe lol.. especially considering it happened unexpectedly... the only difference is usually by then its too late but the MC goes rock hard

ive always used streamline and had good luck! first time ive seen this happen

crazy! well see if the company even offers a replacement then!

yeah i would of figured it would just go mush and not prime the calipers. i know the 1st time it happened. it felt like the MC was super stiff to compress and engage the calipers. then 5 mins later they locked up. so its almost like the fluid isnt able to flush back into the reservoir cause the fluid to keep the brakes engaged.