gofast5

If the cylinders arent sold already ill buy them pm me or something. Thanks

Ya luckily I have 2 spare sets of cases but still i'd rather not screw them up if the piston chunks. The kicker gear ended up going out of it or something and you like cant kick it and then it started having shift problems so looks like this motors going for a complete rebuild from the ground up some day.

Yes they do but theyre identical pistons. I rode the bike an hour it locked up. I tryed to turn it over and it was stuck and locked good. I tryed hard to kick it over and it gave all the sudden and still had compression so we put a little oil directly into the cylinders and turned it over to lube everything well and then bumped it and it ran fine. I rode it bout an hour today like this but now it only wants to bump start even with 110 psi. Doesnt matter if its hot or cold.

You would figure its blown but if you bump it it starts right up and runs great till i broke the kicker gear atleast.

So I had a set of cylinders laying around a guy gave me he put this bike together with a brand new topend and everything and put a bad crank in it and what do you know the one side lost compression but the cylinder seemed fine other then 2 scratches I could feel with my finger nail but nothing serious. So I go over to a neighbors house I bought my original shee from and what do you know he has the exact matching piston still in good condition and gave it to me. So I slap it all together thinking what the heck if it runs it runs. I start it and ride around some both sides are showing about 110psi which I know is a little low. After riding it for a little I take it through a field and it stalls 2 or 3 times the thing wont start for a damn even when warm so a buddy pulls me and I bump start it and start to head down the road to the house and baaaaaaaa all power gone. Its locked up well fun while it lasted we pull it into the garage and my friend sits their trying to kick it and slowly but hardly it turns over so he pours a drop of amsoil dominator in the plug holes and turns it over a few times and what do you know it turns over fine and still has compression and everything. We start it up and ride it some more but still doesnt start for a damn even when hot and sometimes when you start to kick it, it gets real stiff like its locking up again but after you push it through the stroke its absoloutley fine and will bump no problem??? My last bike only had 90 psi but it would atleast start without bumping it. I figure im just going to run it until it dies and when It does ill start all fresh new bore and everything.

I tried some TDR super modified carbon fibers (think thats right can't quite remember) I put them on some ported cages and there was a nice difference. Its been a while but I remember them being pretty stiff so im not sure if thats going to benefit top or bottem end. I can say they were nice and quality made and to me they worked pretty nicely.

LMAO I couldn't help but laugh durring that whole story. I want a video lets do it again!? This time we'll bring a tranculizer gun so if it starts going buck wild you can take some of your anger out while its not trying to kill you.

I have a set of t5s the headers are black id be willing to trade. No dents I saw but ill double check. Black straight from toomey im asuming.

I have a set of t5s the headers are black id be willing to trade. No dents I saw but ill double check. Black straight from toomey im asuming.

Correct 87-89 have j arms nerwer have a arms, 87-89 has a different ignition and rear hub size as well other then that theres nothing I can think of. As for the 450s they sound modded pretty good but with the setup you mentioned you'd have a good chance. Id get the t5s or dmcs personally or pro circuits I didn't care for my fmfs. Port your reed cages its free and easy if you have a dremel some bits and time. Also you do some porting to your cylinders even if you just clean up the casting flaws and open up the intakes some youll see some gains. If you smooth out the exhaust ports or if you raise them your going to see alot more and if you do transfer work. Your going to need some good tires to hook up because those 450s get some good traction. I went with a -2 swingarm and wont ever regret it. Better jumping traction ect even with bald 18 inch carlisles and can wheelie through a field no problem. Hope that helps!

I always liked the maxima castor oil. Im more interested in the protection then anything and it offers alot. I have heard of cases where if you realy dog it or run alot of it like 28:1 it gummed up the power valve some. If I remember right its supposed to help fouling to. I've use motul im not sure exactly how to judge an oil to much. To me a thicker oil is a more protective oil the motul seemed more watery but it burns very clean and smells like bananas before its mixed, when it comes out not so much. My father used amsoil dominator in his kx500 at 32:1 and the power valve worked FLAWLESLY. No carbon build up or anything and it seems to protect pretty dang good. Just my opinion I guess good luck!

The cylinders are 69.5 If I remember correctly and it will be on a stock stroke long hot crank. The bike has dyno port big volumes and t5s have to test both, pwk 28s with pods soon to switch over to a cfm box, +4 or +5 timing havent decided which to use yet, trinity stage IV porting and thats about it. It has boyesen dual stages and ill probably port the stock cages and mabey the cases if I get a chance. Thats about all I can think of hope that helps.

My comment was more toward the other post. I'm not going to use the 2 into 1 I have a guy who was interested in one and I could make alot more money off it then my stock carbs. Im going to be running pwk 28s. What type of power band are these pipes why do you recommend me changing them? I remember for blasters they were a real good pipe but I know the banshees a whole other story. My current setup is pwk 28s running pods will be switching to my cfm air box, +4 or +5 timing havent decided what I will be using yet, ported cylinders, going to port my reed cages, stock stroke long rod crank, big bore jugs wiht trinity IV porting, and probably 22cc domes. I might port the cases its just a play bike it had plenty of power with more or less stock porting, t5s, and the 28s.

Personally id go up 1t on the front. It will make the gears a little longer and you wont spin as much. Get the adjustabletiming plate and set it at +4 or +5, Get a cool head because banshees are notorious for being hot when you aren't moving fast in technical stuff and trust me if your line blows off it HURTS. Pwk 28s were awsome I switched from stock to them and don't see why yamaha didn't use them from the get go, the throttle response is much better, the top end power was better, even the bottem felt nicer. Another cheap thing you can do is port your reed cages and get some dual stage reeds. As for tires deffinatley 21x11x9 kenda knarlys!!! I rode a banshee with a set of 20 inch ones that were pretty beat and they were fun. Hope that helps!

Ok thanks bud I think im going with 21 or 22 just to be safe.

No lol sorry I didn't explain good enough. Its not a big volume 2 into 1 its 2 seperate dynoport big volume pipes. Twin pipes just like a t5, dmc, or any other pipe but they are prety big more like an inframe drag pipe. Sorry for the mix up!

Id be glad to test some free rdz cylinders and spread some good word

Dont let that scare you away theyre a good pipe. Thats the first time I've ever heard of that happening.

Im at the beach so as soon as I get home ill post some pics. By the way I didn't trade him my silencers. Why are you saying to get my fmfs back? They were in decent shape I just though these were pretty cool and the kid gave me a deal I couldnt refuse. My pipes, cylinders, pistons, reeds cages and stock carbs for this kids cylinders, cool head, 2 into 1 carb, and the dynoports. He also gave me a bunch of misc parts he didnt want, pretty much a whole bottem end but the cranks shot. Some shrouds, used mxr6s, stock pipes, clutch side cover and alot of other random things.

40:1 castor 927 im suprised no ones mentioned it. Castor oils offer way more protection but dont burn as clean as a synthetic and on power valved motors can gum the power valves in some cases. Ive been told its supposed to help prevent fouling but couldn't tell you forsure. Not to mention it smells AWSOME.

I dont even know what to offer bud what sounds fair to you I guess we can just go from there

I traded off some fmfs for some hand coned dynoports. Apparently their big volume dynoports any one have any experience with them? Only problem is I didnt get silencers but I might be able to snag another set with sileners for dirt cheap. Its kind of akward both sets have a dent in I want to say the right header on the back side and they both have a little crack and weld in them.

Might be interested in the crank. How many hours is on it how are the bearings?

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good call im newer to the site I need to watch post dates.