Fastassbanshee96

You will notice a huge difference with the 4mil. Not sure about the spacer plate... Everyone says not too run them. But you will need to either mill the head or get a cool head with blaster domes. But IMO go with the 4mil. I was going to do nos too but after alot of looking around I'm leaning towards the 4mil. If you do go nos I heard that boondocker makes a nice one.

Well Im not sure if this is a stock carb or stock jetting. He just bought it not too long ago. Is the stock carb a kelhin? It looks like the intake boot is stock but I don't know a whole lot abot these things. I usually only work on banshees.

I'm actually in the process of doing a 250r for my brother inlaw... What is the stock jetting on those things and what's a good starting point for one with pretty much stock everything except for pipe and air box removed.

I would get a cool head and drop the dome size or mill the head. Jet it correctly. Gear it. Advance the timing. And put a v force3 reed in it. After that it should bump it up quite a bit.

So you don't know of any glue or anything I can use as a quick fix on it.

I have a set of haulers and one of the paddles started to lift from the tire. It's not too bad but am wondering if there is anything out there to glue it back in place or something. I know it probably won't hold for long but would just like to get atleast another season out of them.

Thanks for the info guys.

So let me see if I've got this right.... It looks like in the pic, the key is actually on the shaft where the notch in the flywheel slides over it and the holds the flywheel from spinning on the shaft? If so I have that. I just didn't know exactly what I was looking for. All I knew was it was alittle haft moon piece. And as far as setting the pick up, from what I have read is that you want about a bussness cards thinkness between that and the flywheel or the nubs on the flywheel. Is this correct.

Thanks. Good lookin. Yeah I didn't know for sure about that. The guy at homedepot told me it would hold it but obviously he didn't know what the hell he was talking about. I'll probably just switch back to the stock for now so I don't have any problems.

I just put on an adjustable timing plate and followed all the directions as posted in the forum. It says in there that when you take off the flywheel the key will fall out... Mine didn't. This is the first time I did one of these and don't know where the key is located. I looked all over the place and did not see anything. So I said screw it if it was running befor it should run after. Lol. So pretty much where is it located, if anyone has a pic that would be great, and can you run without one without it effecting performance or anything else. It seems to be running fine. Haven't really gotten to open it up cause my neighbors hate it and always call the cops on me. Just wanted to know befor I take it out and either have problems or end up screwing something up. Any info would be great.

What about the stuff with the braids. That's what I'm using now. I've only gotten it up to running temp a few times and it seems to hold up but haven't had it out for a long period of time yet. Would like to know befor i hit the trails. Also how much does the real clear hose cost.

Thanks for the info... I was already kinda leaning toward the 4mil stock cylinder setup. I just seen the cub kit for a decent price and was wondering how it compared. What is that 370 kit listed under on eBay? I just tried looking and alot comes up.

Yeah I'm already running fmfs and a cool head will be going on it with probably 20 or 21cc domes... Whatever it takes to run pump gas. And that was another? I had... With running the cub setup do you still need to use blaster domes on the 4 mil crank. I would guess you would but just wondering if that right.

Been looking into doing a 4mil setup and fount a good deal on a new cub cylinders gaskets pistons and the 4mil crank from hotrods. What I'm wondering is if anyone has used this setup and how it was as well as if you can still ride trails or if this will be a straight drag bike. I don't need to have them ported if it will be too much for trails but would like to. Any info would be great.

Well I wish I would have known all these tricks to get that shit off. It was a pain lol. The 80 hours wasn't just to get the gold off it was also to get out all the scratches and shit but alot of the time did was on getting the gold off. When you guys sanded did you do everything by hand or were you using tools like grinders and dremals? Everything I did was all by hand. By the time I got done with everything, rims clutch cover throttle box brake res ect. My finger tips were bleeding. Not fun. I wish I would have done dome more reading befor just grabbing some sand paper and going to town.

I did all my stuff by hand in my garage. I think everything turned out pretty good I also didall the the wet sanding and polishing of everything by hand too. The front rims were the stock gold rims but after about 80 hours of wet sanding they came out the way they are now. Pics are in my sig. Sorry about the photobucket but I'm using my iPhone. Lol. Let me know what you think of all of it.

Will either of these fit a 05 stratus sxt special edition. I would like the 8000k.

Do you still have the crank and did I read in here you would be willing to do a parcial trade for stock crank. If so how much and can you send pics.

I lookng for a 4mil long rod crank. I only want hotrods.

Do you still have this crank.

Do you still have this crank.

Yeah I just did mine and you need the spring compressor... Just compress the spring and pull the bottom clip off but watch out when you let out cause that spring has some force behind it. Lol

I already got it fixed... The tool was only like 7 bucks so I would say it's definetly the cheaper rought. And of corse I'm not using an impact. I actually spun it in by hand but for some reason when I was pulling it out (cause the left side wasn't firing) as soon as I put the wrench on it, it just snaped the threads off in the dome. But it's all good now.

Yeah I don't think they were too bright. Lol. I think the guys at the store who sold me the tool said that it had a steeper pitch on the thread. The new plugs seem to be holding great.

I think they were nkg or something like that. I got the rest of the plug out and tried to put a new one in but the top threads were wasted on the dome. I took it to Yamaha to talk to there techs and they said I couldn't fix it cause every time they started the tap it would go side ways. I don't thing they knew what they were doing.... I ended up getting a plug chaser with alittle bet steeper pitch on the thread and ran it in thru the bottum of the dome and got plugs to match. Now it runs like a rapped ape.