Fastassbanshee96

Ok cool thanks. I guess I have the 2s. Is there much of a gain switching over to the 3s? Or is it just a better design. I hear from everyone the 3s are some of the best but unless I will notice a big difference I can't see spending the money on them. Also does changing the tension change the performance of it at all. If so which is better as far as performance.

What is the difference between the vforce 1,2 and3s. And which ones have the purple tag on the side.

As far as the timing goes... Everyone says to do +4. That's what I have done and I like it. As far as reeds go I like vforce 3s. They might be a little much for the mods you have now but if you end up porting it they will be perfect.

Mill the head more or geta cool head and change the domes. Take off the air box and put on pods. Advance your timing. Change the gearing. But all that stuff won't compare to doing port work. By far porting is the best bang for the buck.

Looks pretty bad ass. I like the all black look and I like that beadlock look rim. Those things are pretty sweet.

I'm at about 150 with 19cc domes on stock cylinders and no porting.

Well I switched to a 27.5 pilot and after alittle tuning it seems to be running pretty good. I have only had it idleing in my garage cause it's only 8:30 in the morning when I put them in but when it gets alittle later I'll rip it down the street to see how snappy it is now. My neighbors hate this thing so I'll just have a make it a quick pass and hopefully they won't call the cops on me again.

Lol. That's what I thought too but I figured the dealer would know what they are talking about. Also this was befor I found the HQ.

I don't remember what # the plug is but I was told it's one step hotter than the 8s. I do know they are NGk. Will this effect my bike at all.

Ok cool thanks guys. I will switch that pilot over tomorrow. Also will that make my bike alittle more snappy on the low end. It doesn't seem to do very good unless I'm up on the rpm pretty decent.

I thought the pilot was way too big. The guy at the yamaha dealer told me to run a 40 with the mods I have and that was before the cool head and domes. I will deffinetly switch that. What about my main. Am I on par with that or is that too big to.

So my banshee is 40 over with a cool head and 19cc domes. It's got v force reeds fmf fattys with I believe turbine core 2s, +4 timing and the air box removed. I live in Roseville mi. Near Detroit. I'm running 110 octane gas on stock carbs and I believe my jetting right now is 320 main and 40 pilot with the needle set in the middle. When ever I take it out it seems like I burn thru gas wayyyyy too fast. I know these things are gas hogs but compared to my friends I run out way befor he does. Am I even close on the jetting? When I do a plug chop they have a decent chocolate brown color to them so I would think I'm close. Any ideas on what I should be running? Or what is burning my gas up soo fast.

I've been working on restoreing my brother inlaws 250r and he wants it faster. We raced the other day and he was pretty sad... He has been looking into a cool head but has been having a hard time finding one. I told him about shaving the head but to tell you the truth i don't know too much about it myself. How much does it cost? How does it compare to a cool head? How much should he get it shaved? I know this isn't a 250r forum but I don't know any.... I told him I would try to look into it. He mostly rides trail or dirt roads. Once in a while we will go to the dunes or race eachother or some of our friends. Any help would be great.

Danm that sucks ass. Hopefully someone got there ass beat... Something like that happened to my friend, he bought a banshee off this guy that said it was only like 40 over or something and recently rebuilt. The first time we took it out he blew a rod bearing and wasted his cylinder, piston and dome. We tore it down and come to find out it was 100 over as well. Oh well it gave him an excuse to build a 4mil. It's out at F.A.S.T now and should be getting it back soon. Well best of luck to you and hope you have some words with the guy that traded it.

Looks pretty good. I painted my plastics too and as long as you clear the crap out of them you should be good with the gas. Atleast I've been pretty lucky soo far. I would still try to be careful though. But none the less looks good.

Ok thanks for the input guys. I'm glad I asked and didn't just go get it and find out the hard way. I hate buying shit off craigslist and eBay. Guys always post shit that isn't what it actually is. I just figured if it did fit it would be a nice semi cheap upgrade from my stock swingarm. But thanks again for the info.

Ok try this one.... http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/mcy/1744074795.html

Ok I don't think it worked. But if you go on craigs list in Michigan for the metro Detroit area and type in banshee it should come up. I think the title is something like raptor/banshee swingarm and axle. Let me know what you guys think.

I dont know if this will work but I think this is the link to the swing arm. mailto:sale-vkcyr-1744074795@craigslist.org?subject=Yamaha%20Raptor%20%2F%20Banshee%20All%20Aluminum%20Swing%20Arm%20%20-%20%24200&body=%0A%0Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fdetroit.craigslist.org%2Fmcb%2Fmcy%2F1744074795.html%0A

I just heard back from the guy and I guess it's off a 01 660. He says it will work for the banshee and it looks like it might. Are you sure they are completely different.

I'm looking into getting a +6 swing arm that came off a raptor. Not sure on year or model but the guy says it uses the stock shock for the raptor. Is it the same setup as the shee. Can I use it on mine pretty much. I'm waiting to hear back from him on what year and model it came off. Aslo he says it's an all aluminum swing arm and axle made by R.P.M. Has anyone ever used one? Are they as strong as some of the others out there? I do alot of trail riding so it will be getting some abuse. Any info would be great.

That is one bad ass lookin shee. Keep posting pics as you get it done. What motor are you putting in it?

I'm running a gold o-ring chain now. It real dirty but i think there's a pic in my sig. I'll pull the shee out tomorrow and get a pic in the sun for you.

Well it all depends on how bad they are and if your trying to sand out scratchs. If there deep then start with a heavy grit like 80 or 120. If they aren't too bad then I would just scuff them with a 220 grit then prime and smooth that out with 400 or 600. And then paint. The first time I painted mine I went to automotive color supply and got a single stage paint with clear in it. This last time I just used rattle can dupicolor paint from any auto parts store. Needless to say after you paint ( if you use rattle can) then wet sand with either 1500 or 2500 grit paper to take out the orange pealing befor you clear. And put alot of clear on it so it holds up good. I put on 5 coats of clear over 3 coats of paint this last time.

I've never had a problem with swamping the stator and I too have been in alot of water and power wash it after every ride. But a while ago I was trying different front gear sizes and got real sick of always taking off the foot pegs shifter and entire stator cover just to change out a gear so I just took a cut off wheel to the grill peices on the cover. I have pics of it in my sig. It may not look the greatest(kinda like something is missing) but it sure makes it alot easier to switch out gears. Check the pic out and let me know what you think.