SheezFast02

Hey Josh, how much for the stock intakes shipped to K0E 1L0 Lansdowne, Ontario? Ryan

While test riding my Shee after some carb work the other day, I managed to touch my leg to one of the Fatty's. I didn't think they'd get me, but they sure did. Ouch!

Although nobody has chimed in yet, I'll go ahead and post my progress so far, as it may benefit another jetting newbie such as myself. After letting the machine sit for a couple of hours I decided it was time to go back outside and tinker so more. I went ahead and turned in the idle knobs a few turns to raise the slides just a little as a starting point. Along with the idle knobs, I also backed out the air screws another 1/2 turn (total 2.5 turns) from seated. Low and behold, one kick fired it up with the chokes up and after about 30 seconds I shut the chokes off and it idled on it's own. After warming it up, and throwing my new helmet on, I hit the shoulder of the road and went through a couple gears to see how she runs. The bog is still present, only not nearly as sluggish with the 50 pilots as it was with 52's. It's getting into the powerband after a slight hesitation. I'm sure a set of 48 pilots will get me pretty close to where I need to be and I presume I'll be able to dial the air screws back in a little closer to 1.75-2 turns. Does anyone have anything to say about my needle? It says "NAPE" on it. Never heard of it before. Would it be a good idea to switch to another needle or will this one be ok? I did a search and all I could find is that the KX85 uses this needle. Would appreciate some advice on what needle to use.

I had a low-end bog after installing PWK 28's with 52 pilots and 155 mains, so I just switched to a 50 pilot. The Shee fired right up with the chokes and idled fine. I gave it a couple revs and it stalled, but won't fire back up. I'm guessing it's just flooded but I'd like your thoughts. I have the slides bottomed out because I was going to finally start syncing the carbs. So before I could do any adjusting with the idle knobs, she flooded out or something and now I'm stuck. I'll try starting it again later this evening to see if it was just flooded, but where would you guys go next if it won't fire again? By the way, here's some info: FMF Fattys PWK28's UNI Foam filter No lid 300' ASL 50 pilots 155 mains "NAPE" needle??? Needle in middle groove Float @ 19mm

I'm still working on my Trail Shee, but I have 22's and I think they're a must for trail riding. The extra ground clearance is great and IMO the handling is still decent.

Damn that would be a good B-day present for my gf. What all was done during the rebuild?

Josh is the man. Great communication and very accomidating!

I've done dealings with a few of our site sponsor with only good results. I really like to deal with FAST Racing and Alfie's Toybox. I'd rather buy my Banshee parts from dealers who know their stuff and are great to deal with, such as the two I previously mentioned, than buy anything from a local shop where the guys selling the parts don't know anything. Do yourself a favor and buy from site sponsors! sangheraent, where abouts are you located? You're not close the the 1000 Islands border in Ontario, are you? I'm about 3K from there. That would be quite a coincidence.

I've decided to try and sell my helmet since I've sold my 600RR and won't be needing it anymore. This is an excellent, quality helmet for any sportbike rider. It's very light, clean and has a brand new clear visor. Easy on/off clips on each side of the helmet allows the rider to change visors in less than 20 seconds. I really love this helmet. The only reason I'm selling it is because I have a little girl now and I don't have any interest in taking the chances of being on a sportbike on the street anymore. Offroad only for me from now on. This helmet has not been worn or even touched since these pics were taken, so what you see is what you get. There are a couple very minor blemishes, but nothing you'd notice without looking at it very closely. NO ACCIDENTS!! NEVER BEEN DROPPED ON GROUND. Comes with KBC protective carry bag seen in pics. Will also be shipped in original box. I couldn't get this helmet here in my area so I had it shipped up from Florida and I was extremely impressed by it's quality and light-weght. I'd consider trades for a good MX helmet or maybe a some sort of trade involving a billet intake that'd fit my PWK 28's. PM me if you have any questions. I'm in Ontario, Canada, but have no problem shipping it to anywhere in the US. Asking price is $260 or trades. Will entertain offers. Thanks for looking.

-The spring loaded screw facing downward is your idle screw. One for each carb. Carbs must be sychronized when doing this. -The tube connecting the stock carbs is you "choke tube". The PWK's have a choke on each carb, so there is no connecting tube to worry about. Each carb is completely on it's own. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the help, guys. I ended up getting the boots to stretch over the carbs, which was a pleasant surprise. I guess the problem last time I tried to fit them was that it was freezing outside so the rubber boots weren't very easy to work with. I think I'll still run pods, though. I'd love to get rid of the big clunky airbox for good.

I've been considering running K&N Pod filters on my PWK 28mm carbs. Since it's a trail/play machine and from time to time there's a little water on the trails that might splash a little, I was wonder if it's safe to run Pods with Outerwears without running the risk of getting water in my carbs. I'd really like to ditch the airbox and gain the extra power if the Outerwears will protect from light water splashes. I don't go looking for mudholes by anymeans. Also, if it's not recommended to run Pods anywhere near water, what are my options for connecting the PWK 28's to the airbox? The factory boots won't stretch over the new carbs like I thought they would. Anybody use the rubber couplers from Home Depot or Lowes? I'm ready to start riding to play with jetting, but can't do it until I have the airbox connected or buy Pods. Thanks for any help!

That's exactly what I needed. Thanks a bunch.

Thanks, but I already knew the importance of syncing the carbs. Was just looking for a starting point.

Been searching all over and I can't find anything pertaining to the idle adjuster on the PWK 28 carbs. I know where I need to start with jetting and air screw, but my slides are currently bottomed out and I don't know where to begin with the idle adjusters. Bike won't idle without choke and I don't want to just start turning the adjusters in without an idea of a starting point. Should I just turn the adjuster in the same amount of turns on both carbs and keep doing until the bike idles perfectly? Please help!

Thanks. I have 50 pilots as well, and a couple other main sizes. I'm not overly concerned with jetting as I am with the idle screws. Can I get some advice on setting the idle up perfect on both carbs? Thanks again for your help.

Oops. I meant 300' above sea level. Nobody has anything to say about my setup?

Just figured out my electrical issue and bike started up great for the first time with my newly installed PWK 28's. It was only running on one cylinder at first but I tapped on the bowl of the other carb and it lit up fine. Just need some baseline settings to be safe. -Eye sync seems alright/ no hanging of RPM/ decent response -Won't idle without choke (I backed the idle screws out to let the slides bottome out for so I could sync) I'm just wondering what the best way of setting the idle screws even on both carbs is. Also would like to know baseline mixture screw settings for these carbs. -Stock internals as far as I know -PWK 28's / currently 52 pilot/ 160 main/ mix screw 1.5 turns out from seated -FMF Fattys -Airbox on/ LID OFF -UNI Foam Filter -Sea Level is 300' above I'd appreciate any help you can offer

Just want to say thanks to everyone for lending a hand, especially David (Starwriter). I ended up finding a broken wire that must've got pulled when I was messing around with the FMF stingers. Got looking at the harness very carefully and near the harness connection under the seat the White/Green wire was pulled out of a stupid crimp connector. So I pulled a bunch of tape off the harness and found a shitload of crimp connectors holding the wires together instead of solder. I did a quick re-attach with a new connector and got spark! Then she fired right up for the first time with the new PWK 28's. Now I gotta go back and solder all the wires together so this can't happen in the middle of a ride somewhere. Thanks again, guys!

I don't know where you would find replacement wires, but, you can find the boots at any bike shop. I just bought the NGK caps yesterday and they were only $13 for the pair. Just be sure to use the little rubber sleeves from the old boots to keep water and moisture out. Good luck. Oh yea, and to change the wires is super easy. Just remove the coil by unbolting the 2 mounting bolts, and unplugging the 2 spade terminal connectors. One wire is orange and the other is black. Once you have the coil in your hand, Very carefully bend the retainer tabs that are holding the wires into place. I suggest using your fingers very carefully and not a flathead screwdriver, as you'll break the tabs like I did. They're very brittle. Installation of the new wires is opposite of removal.

Test with the boots off to be accurate, then test the boots for continuity to be sure they're still good. I just had some issues with my coil and my readings from both wires were 5.4K ohms and when I add the caps (had to buy new cuz old ones were toast) I get a reading of 15K ohms. Starwriter (member) has been helping me and came to the conclusion that the caps are adding 5K each. I hope that helps. It's tough to get a straight answer about all this stuff because opinions and experiences vary, but that's what I came up with.

Strange.. Correct me if I'm wrong, but are you saying that your bike runs fine, yet you're getting bad readings from your primary? I've just decided to keep the new coil. I'm thinking that either I'm doing something wrong or the coils somehow fail to give a reading sometimes. This has me stumped.

Shit! So you're testing plug wire to plug wire and getting 00000 for a reading? I don't see how that's possible with a coil that's any good. Anyone want to post up with their current reading and specific method of testing? Thanks

LOL I noticed that as well. If you bought those ones in the pic, you'd be wasting your money, as they won't fit. I installed PWK 28's on my Shee and now I can't get the factory boots on the airbox to fit. I also couldn't seem to get a clear answer form anyone as to how I can run these carbs and keep the airbox. Pain in the ass!

That's what I figured. It's so weird that my old coil is totally shot and getting no readings from cap to cap, and this one I just got is showing nothing. Thanks again man. Looks like I need a new one.