SheezFast02

Go to a detail shop and get some wheel acid. It'll take that shit right off. I use it everyday.

Josh I'll take the billet in-line cooler if it's available. I can send payment as soon as I hear back from you. Let me know!

Shit! I wanted the levers lol

Didn't end up watching it, although I did catch an episode of UFC Unleashed that featured Brian Stann pounding Chris Leben, which was great. I'll be watching Stann fight in the future forsure. Seems like a great fighter on his way up. I can't fucking stand Matt Hamill. I'm glad Rampage won that fight.

I bought a "project pack" of pink insulation from The Home Depot for $8 and packed my FMF Fattys with that. I still have enough insulation to re-pack my silencers 4-5 more times. Can't beat that for $8, can you?

Beautiful bear, Ruko. Can't wait to get a bear for myself one day. I'll be looking to get one with my bow. Do you do any bowhunting at all?

LOL you know what.. Not even Yamaha themselves, could describe the Banshee so perfectly.

Say fuck it and tear up the street for a couple of passes. Original post got me laughing my ass off. WTF?

I looked around for you and found you another option. Check it out. Try to avoid ANY machine that isn't running right before you buy it. You never know what kind of problem it could have. This one seems decent for our general area. Needs a little cleaning but after looking at a bunch of different areas, this is one of the better prices for ready-to-ride Banshee. Was looking at Ottawa ads and holy shit! People are out of their minds! lol http://belleville.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-ATVs-snowmobiles-ATVs-1994-Yamaha-Banshee-350cc-W0QQAdIdZ280355412

Definitely different bowls than my 28's. Mine take hex jets, so yours are likely not authentic.. Doesn't mean they're not just as good, though. Good luck with the sale.

Wow, don't everybody help at once lol.. I'll get it figured out.

The frame # should match the VIN on the registration. The frame # is located just below the stator cover on the left side of the engine, right behind the shifter.

Awsome lookin Banshee right there! Very clean looking!

Also remember to ask anyone you speak to on the phone, if they have a title in hand for the bike they're selling. No offence to the stright shooters from Quebec, but there's a ton of stolen shit floating around that province. There's bad guys in every province, but IMO an over-abundance in Quebec. Just gotta check ownerships and be sure the numbers match before you hand over the cash. As far as the carbs go, you can buy the factory carb rebuild kit, as well as the sync tool from F.A.S.T racing for a reasonable price. The rebuild kit is super easy and the carb sync tool is easy to use as well. I highly recommend you pick one up.

Dallas, keep in mind this is in Canada and ALL Banshees are overpriced lol. Although both of those machines are overpriced, even by Canadian standards, you can expect to pay somewhere around $2000 for a stock machine in decent shape. Unfortunately, you don't find really clean built-up machines around here for a reasonable price, which sucks ass. V8HUNTER, I see you're in the Peterborough area. I'm in the Kingston area. It's extremely hard to find a good deal around here. I'll keep my eyes open and let you know if something decent pops up.

Why not just go to an outdoors store and pick up a clear Plano tackle box? They come with dividers so you can make a shitload of little compartments for all your different jet sizes. Can't get much better than that.

Sorry to hear that...

Hey guys, so I got my Banshee running pretty good after starting my jetting out really rich. I still feel like the bottom end could be better, though. I'm down to 45 pilots and 148 mains and it's pulling hard through the powerband. I pulled my plugs yesterday and they seem to be a good colour (tan) and both plugs look the same, but they're still a little wet. Does anyone think I could drop one more size on my pilots and mains, or could the issue be something else? This bike starts first kick, and doesn't foul plugs. The plugs are just a little wet after a ride and they clean right up with a rag. Would really appreciate some help with this. Mods: -PWK 28's -"NAPE" needle on middle groove -UNI dual stage foam filter -No lid -FMF Fattys w/ PC2 -Boyesen Rad Valves - 300' Above sea level -45 Pilots -148 Mains

I'd be all over that bike for that price. Listen to the great advice in the above posts and you'll be fine. That's a good deal forsure!

I like your style. What intake setup are you running? Never seen that before.

Very clean! I like it!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but, isn't that Dex-Cool shit that's in GM vehicles eat up gaskets? I've never seen so many blown head gaskets and cooling problems with any other manufacturer as I've seen with GM vehicles that use Dex-Cool. In fact, alot of people do a flush and replace that shit with the regular green stuff... I'd never think of putting Dex-Cool in my Shee.. I just did a coolant flush yesterday and used 50/50 Prestone with Red-Line Water Wetter. I'm hoping the Water Wetter will do the trick. Still gotta get a billet impeller. Anyone have pics or writeups on installing a small fan infront of the radiator? It's something that I'd consider doing forsure, just for added peace of mind.

I just did mine with the tool from F.A.S.T. (This is for PWK carbs so it may differ slightly from factory Mikuni's) Carb Sync at idle -First, remove airbox or pod filters, exposing carb opening, to allow the use of Sync Tool. -Start by screwing in the cable adjustments on the carb tops -Next, set idle screws for desired RPM's at idle -Use Sync Tool to check vacuum on both carbs; adjust one carb to match the other until both carbs read same number on Sync Tool. (Back and forth several times to be sure) -Once carbs are Synchronized at idle, move onto mid-throttle Sync, to achieve best mid-range throttle response. Mid-Range Sync -Remove thumb-throttle cap at handlebars -Screw in cable adjuster at thumb-throttle mechanism to give cable as much slack as possible -Use a screwdriver bit or anything of the appropriate size to wedge into the thumb-throttle mechanism to hold the throttle at a mid-range RPM (don't go too high) -Use Sync Tool to measure vacuum from both carbs and carefully take up cable slack via the cable adjusters on carb tops, back and forth several times to be sure they're accurate. -Once both carbs are synchronized to your liking, take up the remaining slack in cable via the adjuster at throttle mechanism, leavin approximately 1/8'' of freeplay. I hope this helps and is as thorough as I intended it to be.

No problem. If you come accross one I'd be interested. Mine could use replacing and I don't think I want to spend the coin on a billet intake setup just yet. Let me know. Thanks.