SheezFast02

lol I bet half of BHQ agrees. Hard to beat a gloss black frame.

Moneypit... But holy fuck are they awesome!

joshb is right. Now is the perfect time to do something big with that motor if ever.

Zilla, you're a fucking moron. Guilt by association? Responsible because he didn't force the driver of his own vehicle to slow down due to road conditions? Who do you think you are? Grow a sack and quit guilt tripping a guy who had no control over the situation. BTW, judging by how up tight you are, I think you're the one who needs to get fucked, moron.

A bit harsh, don't you think? Did you even read what he posted previously? Far from being his fault if he wasn't driving, especially if there was ice on the road.

Thanks, loco. I'm current running a 155 main, which seems to be doing the trick, but maybe I'll go up one more size. I'll grab some pilots going from 48 down to 45 and see where that gets me. This bike is running awesome, aside from the bottom end bog.

I need your help, BHQ'rs. I'm finally back on my Banshee after taking a break from this moneypit. I'm in need of some help with regards to my PWK 28's. I'm a little rich down low, as I have a bog up until I reach the powerband, where it clears up and hits pretty hard. I'm running 50 pilots, and I know 48's will get me close if not perfect. The mixture screws are out past 2 turns, so clearly it's a rich pilot. I think part of my problem is also the needles I'm running. They are "NAPE" needles, which IIRC are a factory KX85 setup. Can someone point me to the best needle for my setup? I've seen people use JJH, CEL, and N68A needles in Banshees and I don't know which one to go with. I believe the rebuild kit comes with the JJH needle if purchased from FAST. If I order the KX85 kit, I can get it through Royal Distributing and have it in one day.. But what years did the KX run this carb? I'd appreciate any help to get me on the right track My current setup: -Stock internals -FMF Fattys w/ PC2's -Dual PWK 28's -Fro-flow plate w/ K&N -No lid -Boyesen Rad-Valve -Elevation approximately 1100' -40:1 on 91 with Amsoil

Thanks for your suggestion..I tried that as well. The cable itself will reach to the lever. It's the amount of actual cable sticking out of the black sheathing that I'm having a problem with. It shouldn't be this hard for a cable to reach the lever... It's being retarded. I'd love to hear more suggestions. I'm dying to start riding this thing again and it's one thing after another preventing me from doing so.

I've used that method before on different bikes in the past, but in this case the cable won't reach around to pop into the slack adjuster. If I stick the cable into the adjuster first, there isn't enough cable to reach into the lever. I've tried everything that I can think of. I guess what I'm wondering now is if it'll be the same story once I buy a new cable. I can't see any reason for the cable not to be long enough. It doesn't make any sense. I might try carefully trimming away some of the outer sheathing to allow more cable to stick out. Thanks.

I went to install my ASV shortys today and had a bit of a hard time getting enough slack in my clutch cable to remove it from the old shitty lever. Once I got it off, I tried to install my ASV perch and lever and for the life of me, I cannot get the cable to pull out of its sheathing far enough to get around the adjuster. I checked the lower clutch adjuster at the case and it's already all the way in. What gives? The cable is old and could use replacing anyway, so if I get a new one, will my problem be solved? I've never had this problem before. I wonder if the previous owner had been using a cable from something other than a Banshee because after removing it from the old perch, it's too short to go back on. FWIW the clutch actuator arm lines up perfectly with the alignment point on the case (but I assume that means nothing in this case). Would really appreciate some help here. Thanks.

PM returned. I'll definitely take the bumper. Gotta wait til I get home from work to send paypal payment. Thanks.

PM sent on bumper. Just need a price with shipping to 13624. Thanks.

Price and pics?

Interested in front bumper. Is it bent at all or perfectly straight? Thanks

Still no pics of the 2-1 setup. You can keep it.lol

Still waiting for pics of the 2-1 setup.

Price and pics of 2-1 carb setup please.

How much longer are you going to have this bike listed on the HQ? I'm going to advertise my bike locally and if I can sell it quick enough I'd buy it, no shit. Everyone around me thinks their bike is worth $5K so mine probably wont sit long. Best of luck with the sale. If I can unload mine right away I'll scoop this thing up. I can't believe it's even still for sale.

Damn I'd like to get my hands on that bish.

WTF? Same kinda deal as ECshee was talking about?

Pics of the skids please.

Here's what I have: -Stock full exhaust system in excellent condition -Stock heelguards with plastic in excellent condition -Stock air filter mount with a freshly cleaned UNI 2-stage foam filter (mounts in factory airbox) -Stock coolant overflow bottles (x2) Let me know if you're interested and I'll send pics of everything tomorrow after work. Not looking for much from these items. Thanks.

Your main jet shouldn't cause any issues with your idle. Your idle is controlled by your pilot jet/air screw. Again, I suggest you start with a slightly bigger pilot jet and make sure the air screws are backed out the same amount on both carbs. I'm also assuming your carbs are not synchronized. Do some reading on carb sync. I highly recommend you get the sync tool from Jeff at FAST Racing. You'll be glad you got it. Also, have you checked to see if the idle screw isn't in too far, causing your slide to stick open? This has to be either an airleak or something minor going on within your carbs. Be very thorough and you'll figure it out.

First thing I'd recommend you do is pick up a Clymer manual. It covers everything and is a great tool when something's going wrong or even just general maintenance. Then pipe and jet it. You'll love how it wakes up compared to stock. Welcome to the addiction

Sounds like you have an airleak. I just went through this on a kid's Blaster I'm working on. It had a major airleak right at the reed cage that I remedied with some RTV. I've aso heard of this happening when one carb isn't getting adequate fuel delivery. You may be told by the more experienced jetting gurus to go up a little bigger on your pilot jets, as 42's seem a little on the lean side. I'm running 45's and I'm at 300ASL, without timing advance or coolhead. First thing I'd do is a leakdown test, then bump up the pilot a couple sizes and work my way down from there. Always start rich, then lean it out little by little to dial it in.