ZillaFreak

Any update on this? Has the money for the dyno tune been returns since you never got that because it takes over 4 months to run a 240V power line from the fuse box to the dyno. Have you only been getting excuses? I see the post on FB has been deleted after someone turned comments off.

How can the dyno not have power for 4 months, but the shop have power? A 240V 30 amp line isn't anything special.

Just a heads up, they are a sponsor. With that said, hopefully you or no one else makes this mistake again.

When did I cuss, bullshit isn't a cuss word. Only one cussing is you. I think you missed a few fucks in your useless post. Again, you are clueless about banshee. You wouldn't do shit if you saw me. Why would I come find you? How stupid are you? You are the one with the problem, not me. As for lying, who is lying? Where did I lie? Please find them. The picture of the engine is about a yamaha manifold, nothing else. If you had a brain, you would have known this because I already told you this, but you lack this vital organ. I had experience with motofast shit. Pipe is tiny and garbage, manifold lack proper air flow. As for Ricky's win, do you really think it matter what quad they are on?

You really are clueless. That isn't a dyno from a magazine, so all your bullshit about advertising is just that, bullshit. You have a lot to learn. That is a picture of a Yamaha manifold I ran on my banshee. If you had a clue, you would know about this. I had a motofast manifold and exhaust. The exhaust chokes top end badly and the manifold doesn't allow enough air in. Cascade and trinity are better manifolds that motofast, and the yamaha is better than those. If you want a single exhaust that has too end, go with shearer.

I did check my facts, maybe you should. Motofast manifold is the worse on the market. Yamaha makes a single carb manifold. Duncan racing won gncc events. The motofast single carb and single exhaust will choke the top end. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Issue with the CFM air box is that it hinders so much air flow into the filter. Reed spacers are not popular, they are only used when clearance is needed for the carb bowl and case. Other than that, no one likes to use them. If you want to test your thought, get a piece of metal pipe that is the same ID as the carb intake side and use some pods. Cut it long to start. Find a dyno. Make runs. Record data. Cut tube to shorter. Repeat dyno runs. Keep doing this. Plot all data with the different length tubes. See results.

nope

No, god no. Moto fast is garbage. Also, full of lies. Moto-fast isn't the only one to win a GNCC on a banshee. Have you heard of Duncan? If you want a single carb, use a yamaha manifold. If you want good low end, use PT pipes. If you really want a good trail/mx engine, talk to DDQ about his setup. Suspension will be key and take most of your 2500 budget.

buy something, stuff is taking up space in the garage

Stink bugs. Must have been in the packing stuff I got from my parents house

Sold some parts, updated the list

Why do you need a digital display on the battery?

no. You need to make sure the rectifier can handle the power the stator puts into it. Needs to be 12v and handle so many watts (roughly 75 for stock stator). You still need to float the ground for many rectifiers. You don't need a battery for DC conversion, but it is always nice to have.

This. Most likely, the idiot left the gas on, it leaked into the carb, then into the bottom end. It flooded. The guy couldn't start it so he pull started it, and hydro locked the end and broke everything.

what top speed? you are already running a large sprocket ratio 3.385, stock is 2.929. The larger this ratio, the less top speed you will have. Put some more gear into it, a more powerful engine like to have some gear. You will be able to use the power as it actually puts a load on the engine and doesn't just rev right out.

It can when you float the ground and use a rectifier. You need a rectifier, not a regulator to convert AC to DC

I will double check to be like 99% sure when I get home tonight.

those are pro-taper bars in the picture, and they are for sale. they are not the racetech bars.

(2) stock swingarm - $15 each + shipping stock linkage - $25 shipped stock axle - sold headlights - sold carrier - sold front shocks - $35 shipped front hubs - $15 shipped rear hubs - sold Pro-Taper fat bar - $25 shipped Steering Stem - sold A-arms - $75 shipped Front spindles - sold Radiator - $15 shipped On/off/headlight switch - sold Front MC - $15 shipped Rear mc - $15 shipped Sprocket hub - $15 shipped Brake hub with rotor - sold Pretty much everything but the frame is up for sale Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I got a black MC and lever.

You can remove it with the shaft in. I just find it easier to take the shaft out, then remove the seal. Then you can check the shaft for any damage (scoring or bent). Then you can clean out the casing where the seal goes. You can try to clean it out with the shaft in, maybe you can visual check for scoring, but I just rather take the time to take it apart.

If you can pull the seal with the shaft still in, then do it. Best of luck removing the seal with the shaft still in and clearing it though.

I have a set of calipers. I know the fronts work, not 100% about the rear as the line was off. $50 shipped for the 3.

Turbo it.