ZillaFreak

So you want to run like a 1" hose on a system designed for 3/4" hose. That is going to work great on all the clamping locations....... The banshee already has an expansion tank.... Also, ever idea you posted about increase the fluid volume is complete stupid when the easiest is buy a larger radiator.

what is hotter? Are you going over 220F?

Go faster. Unless you are riding in super hot weather, have a big modded engine, and/or running at redline in 1st gear, you shouldn't have an issue with cooling.

That sucks, figure it could be cheaper to use local. CSL does some cool seats, I am pretty sure Jeff is done (which suck as he did some great stuff), cascade seats look boring to me as they seem to be the same design. I would say talk to Ben at CSL and see what he can do for you.

Since you are in england, have you tried any car upholstery shops?

Gary the gay is great with stators.

Gary the albino rapist. GT stator aka sheerider1026 on here.

Did you replace with known good parts?

The lights and ignition share the stator but don't use the same coils/pole on the stator. First thing to do is check to make sure your wire from the coil to the stator doesn't have any breaks in it. If this is good, next, you check to make sure the pick up gap is correct on the flywheel to sensor. If good, next would be to check that your stator is good on the ignition side. If this is good, next would be check coil. Finally, check the CDI.

If the bushing is tight in the a-arm, but loose on the bolt, you will always have slop. Either you have the wrong bushing or the wrong bolt. Dust cap will help take up space along the bolt to stop any sliding along the axis of the bolt, but will not fix slop because of wrong bushing ID.

Take some pictures of how you floated the ground and how you hooked up the wires to the rectifier.

The hose length shouldn't have any effect on compression tester if the valve is in the tip.

The thing on top in this picture is part of the TORS. They are used to set the idle and to monitor if the slide gets stuck open. They are not needed for the banshee to run. Many people remove them using the kits. https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/tors-removal-kit-banshee.html

What I would suggest doing to get the best answer, is email someone like Redline Racing (http://redlineracing.biz/) or FAST (http://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/index.php) and give them your info, make sure to let them know the fuel you want to run (and that it is measure by the RON). They will give you the best answer as they builder a few of these motor and know them better than the average member on here.

I am 100% positive that the 98 super gas in europe is the same as our 93 pump gas. Also OP, you have said 2 different engines in your post. Do you have a 421 or 472? Is the bore of the cylinders 68mm or 72mm?

You do know that with the slight chance it might catch air there, it will not effect the cooling efficiency of the system right. What little air that might be there would be above the inlet of the radiator. It is also lower the the overflow nozzle. You can run without a coolant tank and it will not have any effect on the cooling capacity of the system. If you are worried about cooling capacity, get a bigger radiator (thicker core, more core, bigger with more fins).

So please explain how the cap isn't the highest point in the banshee system?

If you do get air into your radiator, it would be trapped at the highest point of the coolant system, air is lighter than coolant. So as soon as it gets hot again, it will push the air back out the cap.

i have never seen an increase in cooling effect because of an overflow tank at operating temp. It will not help the cooling effect of a radiator at operating temps as the fluid will be in the overflow tank and not in the radiator to be circulated. It doesn't go back into the radiator till the coolant temps start to drop, then the excess coolant in the tank starts to go back into the system. The coolant in the system has to cool first, and the tank had zero to do with it cooling.

I ran a coolant overflow tube that was maybe 3-4 inches long. It came out of the radiator, made a 90* bend upwards and that was all. Never had an issue. It will leak coolant at first till the coolant levels drop enough to where it is "full" at operating temps. Make sure your cap is good though.

So he only does 1 performance mod... Cylinder porting? Does he bore the stock carbs? Did he port the stock reed cages? Mod the stock timing plate? Did he mod the head? Again, give some more details.

He is popular in the quadracer community.

What is every performance mod that Mr Hall offers for a banshee? I see he doesn't make exhaust for it like he does for other quads. Stock stroke, 4mil? Stock cylinders, CPI cylinders? Porting? Stock carbs or? Details help a lot when trying to sell something like this.

So either you have a shit tester or the head is fucked. Like said before, have you check to make sure your head it flat and true? Might be warped. Also, check to make sure all your head nuts are tight, if loose, head can lift. The final thing could be a fucked dome design. I would say start off easy, check tightness of bolts. If good, might need to drain coolant and pop head to see if HG is leaking.

When you did the compression test, did you do it correctly? Hold throttle open, kick till needle stop? Also, did the compression have the valve at the tip or in the gauge? Did the tip thread in the same length as the spark plug?