252wheelieking

Don't ride your shee no more & yes you have an air leak. Get a leakdown tester & check for leaks. Find the leak & fix it before it cost you alot of money. Speaking from experience.

I brought my chariot coolhead used & it arrived in the same condition as yours with 21cc domes already installed. I didnt notice the tabs we're bent until I changed the domes outs. I have not had any issues with mines. It works perfectly fine, but I was upset when I noticed that the tabs we're bent. If you can get a refund you should. Just my 2 cents.

Ah Ok just learned something new. Yes I see alot of people using them & would run them myself. I didn't switch to pwk's, because a site sponsor told me it wasn't worth the switch far as the cost/performance of PWK's. He recommend PWK's over PJ's & I agree that PWK's are a better carb. Hopefully one day I will get a good used set out of the for sale section.

From my understanding of jetting & tuning carbs you use the same concept on both carbs. The only differnce is PJ has choke/idle knob on same knob. PWK has a knob for the choke & screw for the idle. I do understand that the PWK is more modern, but what makes the PWK so much easier?

X2....elevation plays the biggest part in this post. But at sea level 19cc domes on 110 race fuel.

yes...do a compression test & leakdown test on your motor. Compression test will let you know what octane fuel to run. Leakdown test will let you know if your engine has any air leaks.

^^^^^LMAO.....It's not that hard.

I run 34 PJ's & personally think they are a very good carb. I wouldn't switch from a PJ to PWK because the price of the switch isn't worth it. From my experience of tuning PJ & PWK carbs are the same except the choke/idle knob on the PJ is all in one. It's easy: PJ carb Pull choke/idle knob up = choke on Push choke/idle knob down = choke off Turn choke/idle knob by clicks clockwise/right = higher idle Turn choke/idle knob by clicks counter clockwise/left = lower idle

From my experience of hearing that pinging sound in the fattest part of your header is a sign of detonation. Mines use to sound like that also at idle & I kept riding it. The second sign of detonation was when my spark plug backed out of the head. I installed new plug & tighten it down really good & kept riding it ignoring the signs. Then my engine blew up from detonation. just my experience. Basically I'm saying get it checked out & dont avoid it like I did.

Good info here. My conditions were from the 9th pic.

Good info here. I was assuming that +6 timing was too much. Now that you put it this way, yes I do remember that pinging sound in my pipes. It sounds like a little rock or something bouncing around in the pipe. The domes could have had some part in the deto because everytime I install them my engine breaks down. Far as the blowby my compression was low as hell to be using 18cc domes. It's been time to bore & hone them, but this is what happens when your being cheap or taking the easy route. I have all new parts for the rebuild & im getting Kevin to bore & hone them this time around. I've been told the same thing as to breaking your engine in. That if you break it in hard the rings will seat better. I feel better now that I have had a 2nd opinion as to what could have been my problem with why my engine failed. Can you give me your example of a properly hard break in procedure? Thanks for the info.

First let me start with the set-up that I was running when this happen. Chariot coolhead, 18cc domes, BR8ES spark plugs gap (.027), wiseco pro lite 64.50 (.020), HJR dune/play port, Cometic top end gasket kit, SB IF Shearers, VF2's, Boss Racing intake w/ built in crossover tube, 34PJ's 52 pilots/CEG mid clip/160 mains, 80*+, sea level, +6 timing, 100LL av gas, stock stroke crank, new seals for complete bottomend. Below are some pics of the damage from detonation. My first sign of detonation was my right spark plug backed out on me while I was riding it. I installed a new spark plug and snugged it a little tighter than the previous spark plug. I started to notice that it was a black ring forming around the right spark plug again. I avoided it & below are the results. I didnt do a leak down test before I tore it down, but I'm leaning more to a leak from the right spark plug is what cause all this. What you are seeing below is the lower connecting rod thrust washer shattered & came threw the transfers & damaged my domes, cylinder & piston. The crank still turns smooth but has alot of play from the thrust washer being removed. Right cylinder The right dome after I wiped the oil & grit off This is the left cylinder. It would still fire on the left cylinder but run sluggish.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? SB IF Shearers 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N pods 3) Are you running a airbox? No 4) What is your elevation? 82 ft. above sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 52 6)What type of needles are you using? CEG mid clip position 7) What size main jets are you using? 160 8) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70+ 9) Do you have a port job? (Yes) HJR dune/play 10) What kind of carbs? Keihin 11) What size carbs? 34mm PJ's 12) Do you have a coolhead? yes 13) What brand is your coolhead? Chariot 14) What size domes are you using? 21cc 15) What type of fuel are you using) 93 pump gas 16) What gas/oil ratio you use? 32:1 17) What type of premix you use? Klotz Supertechniplate

I agree with this ^^^^^.

Ask the guy that ported the cylinders what your port timings are? Have you done a Leakdown/Compression test? Sorry if someone already asked this as I didn't read the whole thread.

I never chop them either....I just pull plug & look at electrode, base ring, & tip.

LS3, Sands is the guy that started this thread & wants to see pics of decalv02 engine damage from detonation.

I have heard that you can hear detonation but I don't know what it sounds like. Pro's describe to us what detonation sound like. I need to know this.

Post them up CAM....Sounds like an good idea.

Make sure you do a leakdown & compression test before starting the engine after new pistons & domes are installed. After you do a couple of heat cycles check compression again. You can never check your compression enough.

From reading previous post on here 24cc domes would work perfect with 93 USA pump gas. Ask Andy at M&M I had to learn this the hard way...... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145800&st=0&p=1257153&hl=252wheelieking&fromsearch=1entry1257153

a .020 gasket is thicker than .012 gasket, therefore the piston would be futher away from the domes creating more area. The squish should be more than your previous squish test.

From what I have been hearing the .012 base gasket will cause it to detonate because of small squish. I talked to a member on here today, that is out right now testing the .020 base gasket on his 421 serval now. I will let you know the outcome when I talk to him again.

^^^I can't fully explain it as I just learned this from reading on here. Im sure somebody with more knowledge about this will chime in & explain it to you. I think it was gotta-go fast that explain this down to the Tee...