252wheelieking

thanks brandon...that makes a whole lot of sense right there as to whats happening to my engines. There is a reason why they only made them for two years & I always wondered why...This must be the reason. Do you know where I should set my timing plate if I have one of the advanced timing CDI box's? how much timing was advanced on the 95-96 year CDI box's?

Me too.... ....what makes his comment so funny is that the milk wanted to stay with me but I couldnt keep it. So I sat it in some warm water & sent it back where it came from...... Cant even tell it's tainted

Mines does both of them as mentioned above.

I see you understand the power of a little chocolate...imagine alot..... so for your sake, keep in prayers that none of your milk gets to wondering

Can someone give detailed instuctions on how to proper adjust the essentric screw cause im having the same problem & I have all the clutch mods. shift pro kit, modded star & cut tranny. Also what mod is done to the shift shaft to help shifting? Not to be thread jacking but I figured it will benefit us both.

$400 for just the headers.....something smells FISHY

I brought two cranks & had them inspected & trued/weld by two different site sponsors....samething happened. I dont think I damaged them, as I have built them plenty of times & it only occurred with these cases on both builds. Cases are a matching set. top & bottom have X9 142 ingraved on them. Im not postive that they didnt mismatch the cases but they have the same number ingraved on them. I appreciate the help as im Thanks for the stator advice as im changing to a stock one for piece of mind. Heard alot of bad things about RM stators.

I agree on the cases but it cant be the cranks cause I had Kevin @ HJR look over & true/weld the first crank & Brandon @ Wildcard do the same for the second crank. Both crank thrust washers done the same exact thing. The spark plug on right cylinder looked gray from all the metal in the cylinder I assume, but when i was jetting it both plugs we're the same color. left cylinder plug still look good & ran & it had some small chunks on top of the piston also that i believe came from detonation. My jetting was 34 PJ's: 52 pilots, CEG mid clip, 162 mains temp was between 60*-80* @ 82ft. sea level.

understandable.... cause you cant fill the hole nomore..... That's a good response when you know if they go black they aren't coming back..... j/king

Man im at a point in my life where shit like that dont even bother me, whether it was racist or not. I took it as a compliment actually cause at least he knew where the tradition of BIG BOOTY come from. look at my avatar & nikki right below this Now I love me some BIG BOOTY NAPPY HEADED WOMEN

All I know is: 1st setup I had blow was 18cc domes @ 115 psi (needed to be bored), +6 timing, 100LL 2nd setup was 21cc domes, 150psi (fresh top end) +4 timing, 93 pump gas results was samething thrust washer on right side connecting rod shattered & killed the top end again. So im & wondering should I switch cases & stator? I never had this problem with any other build, only mines with these used cases. This problem occurred when I started using these cases & could be an coincidense. If I switch cases, stator & cylinders shouldnt that kill the problem? Im building my 421 cub now & I can't afford this to happen to my cub, so im trying to avoid this problem. I appreciate all the advice...keep it coming.

I have rebuilt my engine twice, both times the thrush washer on the big end of the crank shattered on the right side & damage the top end. It appears to be detonation & I have replaced everything with new parts except electrical parts. I brought used electrical parts but they passed all test. Can my aftermarket RM stator be passing the test & be the cause of the detonation. Im very All help is highly appreicated

SHHHHHHHH....dont say shit.....the next thread he post will be damn I should have listen to them & kept the bike & got the $1500..... let him do what he was going to do in the first place. Everdentley it didnt matter what we said cause his mind was already made up.

That's why I said fuck you cause my kids are all over me watching what im doing. They are out of school for the holiday & worring the shit out of me.

i was joking & i can take a joke.....actually your advice sounds better than this thread....

FUCK YOU TOO......

Tyler please delete this BULLSHIT ASS THREAD.....WE are not learning anything here. He asked us for our opinion & we gave it to him. Now it's going on & on & on about some other BULLSHIT that's not even worth reading.....

That's not even half my crew.... Surfrjag & mmajay know how deep we come when everybody bikes & money is straight.

No not yet....im leaning more towards something is wrong with the cases. My reason is because have rebuilt stock banshee motors alot & never had this happen to any of them except mines. I just finish rebuilding the topend on my cousin motor. I built that bottomend also & I checked the rods on the crank & everything is still passing specs. I never had this problem until i started using these cases. So im going with everthing different, cases, cylinders, & stator.

Ok im going to use 100LL with +3* timing to start out with. Im just being cautious cause of the last two engine I had to blow in 1 years time. I can see that the domes are still good & looks brand new. You are right I have alot to learn about domes.

I want to run the correct timing to make fun, fast & more reliable. I brought the domes from a member on here who had Andy at M&M cut them. The guy I brought them from said he had Andy at M&M cut them & they we're set up for 100LL & pump gas. He said he ran pump gas without any problems, but im nervous cause I been having bad luck with my engines here lately. I PM'd Andy & he said if he cut the domes they would be ok for pump gas & 100LL will most definitely work. Now the part that gets me nervous is that from what im reading & was told 22cc domes require 110 race fuel. If I run 100LL I will not be able to run any timing. From the looks of your set up, i dont think i can even think about pump gas with 22cc domes at sealevel (82ft).

Seriously tho....keep the bike & take the $1500..... you can buy a new frame & cases with that $1500 & still have money left over.....Its not not a hard decision to make.....you will be actually losing out if you take the $2165 leave the bike.....

I think I need some 23cc or 24cc domes then cause im at sea level. From my understanding you should lower one dome size for every thousand feet of elevation that you rise to keep your compression acceptable for your fuel octane rating. Then opposite for every thousand feet of elevation lowered. So if im at sea level & running 22cc domes that makes me have to run 110 race fuel or you think 100LL av gas will keep it from detonation? I dont have easy access to 110 race fuel but I can get 100LL av gas easy.

I agree^^^^