252wheelieking

Redline 4mil stock cylinder dune port. Might do a serval.....The cub is too much for the guys I ride with.

Tomorrow Im tearing bike apart even the motor. I thought a memeber on here was interested in the complete motor but he stop responding to my PM's. So I assume he's not interested anymore. So everything must go & if I dont respond fast enough to messages tomorrow don't doubt me. Im outside getting your parts off the bike, cleaning them up so they will be ready for shipping. Thanks in advance Reek.

No it's not ported

All Pm's returned

I am parting out my 421 cub banshee. I built the engine in may 2012 just before the busco trip. A few members on BHQ that came to busco can verify the condition of my bike. Prices are not including shipping except for cylinders & pistons. Pics of parts will be sent as requested as bike is still fully assembled. The pic in my sig is the way the bike is currently. Thanks Reek Engine: 421 cub w/ 68mm wiseco pro lite blaster pistons- $950 shipped Cases port matched to cub- $150 Hot Rods Trued/Welded +4mm crank low hours - $325 Polished Chariot coolhead- $100 22cc domes 162/165 psi- $45 Boss Racing intake w/ built in crossover- $100 VF2 reeds- $100 34mm PJ's- $150 cast iron timing plate- $20 cut stock tranny w/ shift forks- $125 modified shift star- $20 SB IF Shearers- $350 K&N air filters- $25 flywheel- $75 stator- $75 clutch cover- $35 Chassis: Renthal low bend handlebars- $15 billet bar clamp- $25 polished grill skull with flames- $20 Lazer Star billet headlights with MR16 bulbs- $100 chrome +2+1 ASR a arms- $275 chrome +4 swingarm (standard style)- $200 +4 G Force axle- $80 front & rear stainless steel brakelines- $50

Ok BHQ fam so I decided to part out my shee...The bike is currently still together & I will remove parts as requested. Everything is for sale. Thanks Reek

Im down Even if I dont have a banshee then.

No spark arrestors

I couldn't tell you, as my stock cylinders was ported before I installed the Shearers.

I forgot to add that it also has front & rear galfer stainless steel brake lines. If I can get enough buyers wanting most of my parts I will part it out.

The pic is in my sig dude.....

You are right...but the hassle of dealing with shipping parts. I might part it out.

yes it is.....I'll build another one later...right now it just sits & no one rides anymore. The most it gets ridden is at busco.

yeah man I know it alot of money & time invested in this bike. I'm not having a hard time, it's just that I dont really have interest in it anymore since the guys around here don't ride like that anymore. Far as racing it, I thought it over hard & that is only going to lead to more expensive parts for it trying to get faster. It's only so many guys around here that race. Then that's going to send me in deeper & make it harder to get cash back. So I figured I sell it & use the money towards something that's benefit me. $3500 sounds fair...

I'm looking to sale my banshee & need a some opinions on a ball park figure to set the price at. It is a 1996 with clean title. The following mods done to it are: Engine: 421 cub Cases port matched to cub Hot Rods Trued/Welded +4mm crank Polished Chariot coolhead 22cc domes 162/165 psi Boss Racing intake w/ built in crossover VF2 reeds 34mm PJ's +4 timing/cast iron timing plate driveline performance clutch kit cut stock tranny modified shift star SB IF Shearers K&N air filters Chassis: Renthal low bend handlebars billet bar clamp trail tech vapor polished grill skull with flames Lazer Star billet headlights with MR16 bulbs chrome +2+1 ASR a arms chrome +4 swingarm (standard style) +4 G Force axle Itp polished rear rims

I know this thread is about VP C12, but i just felt the need to answer a question. I've been running 100LL for two years & love it. IMHO 93 pump gas will hurt your engine before 100LL will. 100LL is not the best fuel in the world for performance, but it is better than pump gas I can promise you that. A few members on here that came to busco seen how the 100LL performed in my 421 cub. Now I believe with 110 race gas it will perform better, but 100LL is closer to me for a cheaper price. Im not fully drag racing yet, but when i do i will be switching to 110 for better performance gains. I think people down 100LL because they dont know how to tune to it. JMHO

I totally agree VP = VERY PRICEY

yes....more air needs more fuel assuming your jetting is almost perfect.

Im running the same setup on 100ll using 55 pilots CEG needle mid clip 160 mains at sea level. It runs like a raped hostage.

Just as topic says, I am interested in buying a polished lockup/cover with the see through lense. It DO NOT have to be polished but that is what I prefer. The lense can be any color, long as it's interchangable. Let me know what you have. Thanks Reek.

n you will not be able to move the fibers & steel at all when the pressure plate is installed correctly. That's is what you did wrong, follow the instruction i gave you before & your tranny should work fine from there. Your welcome

I think you didnt install the pressure plate correctly so that it's fully seated. On the stock clutch basket & pressure plate there are arrows that helps you line up the pressure plate so that it would fully seat. The aftermarket basket may not have them marks. If you didnt do that it will cause the steels & fibers not to fully compress against each other which will act like the clutch is disengaged. Take the clutch springs & bolts back off, then pull the pressure plate & slightly turn & seat the pressure plate until you noticed that the pressure plate sits flush against the fibers. Then reassemble. Hope that help

Freshen it up with a Hot Rods 4mil crank, dune port from any site sponsor, 21cc domes cut for 4mil, sell the T-6's & buy T-5's. You will be very happy with that set-up & will be waiting for your friends craptor to catch up on alot of your trail rides. You should be in the 70HP range with that set-up since numbers matter. Banshee's are not expensive in my eyes, they are just addictive which leads to wanting more upgrades & that's what's expensive.

I let it warm up a little first, then ride it around until it reaches normal operation temps. Then I ride it hard as hell thru all gears WOT.... I was told by a site sponsor the harder you ride it from a fresh rebuild the better the rings seats. IMO that is true from first hand experience. Honestly I think you should break the bike in the way you are going to be riding it. Sort of like a woman, your getting her use to what she will be handling. Of course after it cools down go back over engine & make sure everything is torqued to spec. & your done.

You been tellin me for about a 1.5 yrs. to get a dunable.....Im sold now Wacko2000 came to busco & I seen how his dunable 1-4 m5 & m6 pulled & that was my reality check. Soon as the funds are available for a 1-5 dunable, the cub is getting torn down & refreshed with a 1-5 dunable. Night & day difference