Phelps

If it has sat for a long time it needs the carbs cleaned, petcock rebuilt and possibly jetted up once the real issues are fixed. Could also have a ground issue.

You answered your own question. Not enough compression. ..

Send it to? Buy it from a sponsor. Even as cast it will run good as cast. Least you will have someone to help if the parts are messed up, or...

You see the head and the clean spots on the squish band? You see the spots on the sealing surface between the dome and coolant port? Coolant has been getting into the dome and compression into the coolant.

Find out which is not decked flat. honestly I would get a aftermarket head but still have the cylinders checked.

Looks like a exhaust burn to the coolant port. Head, or cylinders are not flat.

Step away from it. Give it a week and then jerk the head back off.

I was giving you reasons why it's still puking coolant. You need to fix the real issues before jetting.

Busted impeller, head gasket allowing compression into coolant ports, lean, dirt packed radiator

Is this a mild bike that you don't intend to tear down often? high/low Temps in your area? It's all about what you do with your bike not what someone says is best all around. Ain't no sand/asphalt guy gonna run 50 bucks worth of coolant when they tear into their motor once a month. Same time ain't no trail guy gonna put free water in his bike when he might tear into a motor every few seasons. My drag bikes go distilled water and a quart of water wetter. My trail bikes got 50/50 and never touched for years unless something broke.

too answer your coolant question.... it leaking outside of the head doesnt mean it's leaking into the cylinder. the fire ring has a much better seal then the outside edge of the gasket.

i would have never said advance the timing anymore. strap already looked sand blasted which is a good indication there was detonation. either lack of fuel or too much timing or both. you can cover it up with fuel, back the timing off or both, but hey i'm sure someone will correct my advice. start safe and then start the leaning process. it's not a drag bike....

^lol trying to go riding with you..... well trying to be where you're riding late at night...

yeah. they work ok, but don't increase signal like a vforce. you may end up a little bigger than most. i'd stay on your path. try the 165's and do another chop.

nice

the title did imply "and girl"

well.... the 28's do have a strong signal so 160 do seem a little high, but on the other hand every combo wants something different. if you had stock reed cages i would say 165 would be "ballpark", but if you're running vforce typically most end up around 155. if it passed a leakdown it's possible the porting dropped some signal and it just needs more fuel. either way you're still on the lean side for sure.

well i guess if she don't mind the mass robbing power go for them. they did seem to hook very well while duning.

those were heavy as crap on my buddies 450r. might have been the rims though

sand skate II??? i always liked them on dune/stock bikes.

rockwool is what goes in the plentums right? 3/4" thick and black? thinking that is what i used a few years. had it laying around and the drag bike would spit packing out within a weekend so i just used it until i ran out. worked great.

def too lean.

110 is about minimum for any performance. i would consider even 120 to be too low. def time for a rebuild.

Like already stated. Swap wires