Jereme6655

x3 on being lean.....the ignition problem and the kill switch and plug caps are not the problem...they only kill the spark going to the piston itself.. However if your running super lean you can create a "dieseling" effect.....basically something in there is either SO hot or detonating so badly that it is continuing to generate enough heat inside the cylinder to continue igniting the fuel.. like fastbanshee said....DO NOT ride it or start it til you can track down the problem or you will definately make things worse... let us know what you find and we can help you out with your problems...

when you get all the screws out and the brake bolts out BEFORE reassembly.....go to the auto parts store and buy a small bottle of anti-seize for your fender bolts and caliper bolts....trust me....it will be the greatest $5 that you'll spend....

shit man.....workin on it and gettin it right is HALF the fun...lol

has your plastic rock guard been broken recently? the reason i ask is im wondering if your radiator took a rock hit that bent the interal tube and pinched it so that it couldn't flow through. also you should spray out the fins on your radiator as the mud and crap stuck inbetween the fins will bake in and hamper the cooling abilites of the radiator itself...

and i have a bad bad feeling your gonna tell me that the only way to tell if you have a welded and trued crank is to split the cases right???

.....been thinkin of a setup like what your describing... can you run a mx port job with 20cc domes and +4 timing on pump gas (premium)? what about with FMF Fatties on it? and would it make enough power to worry about having to get the crank welded and larger carb bowls for the stock carbs to keep them from running dry??

nope....they don't restrict fuel...they are a splash-guard which should be left in. did you properly break the engine in after you fully assembled the motor?

The intake and exhaust ports on the inside of the cylinder can get really sharp after being bored and honed. If the ports are not chamfered then there is a possibility during install to catch a piston ring on the sharp lip of the port damaging the ring...thus deterorating the life of the engine/rebuild.

haha....yo sloryder....your pretty close with how to calculate horsepower....but your missing the dividing number. But your right...horsepower is a derived number determined by rpm and torque. But the equation is ..... TORQUE X RPM / 5252. That is torque times rpm devided by 5252.

have you tried your pilot jets yet? the main jets only function PAST 1/8 or 1/4 throttle. The pilot jet is what takes care of the fuel from idle and also keep going all the way to wide open. The guys were just wanting you to up your mains so that you don't melt your motor down on a WOT run by running it way too lean. TRY steppin up the pilot jets!!! 27.5.

yea i'd say that a 260 is small for you.....but what is your pilot jet size?

i hope you have some mods done to your bike other than just a tors eliminator with that jetting. haha......what's all done to your bike and about what elevation are you at?

you could always mix the 93 L and the 110L to get a mix that's should be around 100 L

didn't blow it up???? what.....not riding hard enough?

what gas are you running? is your jetting right? what mods do you have done to your motor.....all things we need to know....then we can try and answer more questions.

well if you have spark and then you need fuel to get it to fire. but lets start simple....switch your spark plug wires.....if the left suddenly runs then you have a spark problem...do you have the tors eliminator??

have you pulled the carbs apart to clean them out? and have you tried the 27.5 jets yet? they're not expensive....they're like $3 a piece X 2....so $6 total

Fraser checkin in...

Well that's some serious good news man.....cause i think your old frame may have a bit of Scoliosis of the spine....haha...

the amount of oil actually has little to play with the power gain part....unless your runnin retartedly SUPER rich or SUPER lean.......either way you can run 32:1 or 40:1 with a synthetic without a problem. And welcome to the site buddy

Those jets may be the problem...they are stock sized jets. Granted every shee is a little different even with the same mods...but you should be in the ball park of a 27.5 pilot jet and a 230-240 (correct me if im off on this guys) main jet... your shee may be starving itself cause the main jet main not be big enough.

on the stock carbs there are big funny lookin things connected to the top of them...the tors (throttle over-ride system) it can sometime cause problems resulting in what your symptoms can be. just find the box under the front left near the gas tank and try unpluggin it and see if that helps

has it always run like this....or did you just pick up the bike? Did you put the fmf's on? your gonna have to fix that choke tube...that'll lean you out. and also you may need to step up your pilot jet from the stock size (25) to a 27.5 Sounds like something my bike was doin when i first bought it.....fmf fattys...idled bad and popped and had no bottom end when in gear but it would rev in neutral just fine. Tore the carb jetts out and put in the 27.5....wow did it change alot.

That pilot jet is the stock jet...try jumping that one up to a 27.5 or even a 30 with those T-5's....it'll really help out.

no prob man....we're here for a reason...HAHA