Jereme6655

wow.....tell your buddy he's got some people hopin he pulls through okay.

haha....The Pink Store.....shit i haven't been there since our ride from hell. My buddy and i decided to ride from mio to the pink store.....little did we know there was a poker run on that very trail that day.....with over 1000 registered dirt-bikes runnin the same path. What should have been like a 3 hour trip wound up being almost 7 hours of hell. Shit by the time we got to the pink store there were riders askin us if we were the 2 quads out there doin a little berm-busting to help the bikes out....haha

ive yet to run mine....but im waitin for it. but honestly the way i look at it is even if i don't beat a modded craptor.....hell..it'll still be a damn decent run. OHH and wait.....I made you kinda worried you wouldn't win.....and i only have HALF the size motor.

you should do a leakdown test on your motor....it will help rule out the possibility of a gasket leaking. there's a sticky on how to build the leakdown tester.....your motor needs to hold 6psi for 6 minutes without dropping the pressure.

Been here before....tappin it actually causes the wrist pin to pivot on an angle a little bit making bind and not want to come out. IF your doin a full top end rebuild replacing the pistons and wrist pins then you can try this....on your piston there should be a small notch to allow you to access your c-clip holding your wristpin in....if you can get the pin out just enough to get needle nose pliers in there you can slightly twist the wristpin as you pull it out. the twisting motion really helps out alot haha

we need some more info.....are there any mods done to your shee? what size are the main and pilots jets....has the temp changed in the area you live in around the time it started acting hectic? what year is your shee.... if it hits only on one cylinder but the other one comes on when your part way into the throttle it could be a problem with your pilot jetting. if it doens't want to rev at all when you try to give it throttle it could also be your parking brake limiter.

did the carbs overflow onto the ground through the overflow drains? try taking your pipes off and see if there is any fuel in the pipes....if there is you may have some in your cases....so you'd have to drain the cases then put your pipes back on and try starting. BUT first....make sure your getting spark. haha.....nothin like trackin down a problem that appeard to be caused by something else.

if your pulling the choke out and it goes from idling like crap to idling perfect then its definately asking for more gas....BUT...now you gotta find out why its askin for more. Make sure you check your intake boots....especially with you running a boost bottle...they may have torn and created a air-leak. usually it will lean you out and cause the engine to rev higher....but i have seen other motors go the other way. Do a leakdown test too....it'll put your mind at ease. AND put in those 27.5 pilots....

drop in the 27.5 like firebanshee said...should really help you out. did this just suddenly start out of nowhere? or havey ou just put a mod on your bike?

yea that will make for a decently quick bike.....but what kind of trail riding do you do?? tight technical trails or trails that are decently wide and let you smack the throttle hard? if your ridin a mix then i might suggest the FMF Fatty pipes....they have more low end power which works great for slightly tighter trails. T5's tend to have a better mid to top when pull. so they would be ideal for trails where your able to wind out your shee. either choice is a good one though! And welcome to the great world of the Banshee....theres ALOT of people on here that can help with just about everything...

it could also be that you need to sync your carbs.....one carb might be dumping in more fuel/oil mix while the other isn't....could be the residule burn off. along with what sheefreak said i would take the few minutes and make sure the carbs are sync'ed

before you tear the petcock off to check and clean screens......just REAL quick.....open the gas cap and check your fuel level.... i know i know... your probably all sayin "well no shit" but ive seen it happen before HAHA

Dont clean out the stock pilot jets.......go out and get yourself a set of 27.5 pilot jets. They will keep you from running rich on the low end of your shee's throttle. if your bikes pilot circuit is running lean it will definately make it hard to start.

you should do a leakdown test after assembly so that you can make sure your motor has no airleaks that will cause a lean condition and make you rebuild it again. Other than that.....take your time and don't rush...and wear latex gloves...makes life easier. also depeneding on the piston you purchased....check the ring grooves around the piston. Some pistons have a tab in the ring-lands that require you to line up the rings with them.....or else they will totally ruin your day when you can't get it to start and need to bore it AGAIN. Other than that....its not hard....coat the wrist pins with a little 2stroke oil to ease the install. Some say to let it run through 2-3 heat cycles.....others say 5 hrs of easy break -in. But most of the hardcore wild riders here will just easy ride it for about 2 hours or 1 full tank of fuel......then drop the hammer.... Let us know if you need any help or if you get stuck anywhere! and let us know how its going.

did you change your pilot jet at all? i know when i got my shee i had to step up one size on the pilot jet because the previous owner never changed it when they put on Fatty's......wow...what a difference... im not sure if pro-circuits would need rejetting of the pilot jet but it sounds like that could be a aproblem with your shee. sounds like you may be a little lean on the pilot circuit.

theres part of your problem..... the TORS also controls your idle speed. So when you remove your TORS and don't follow through with putting in the idle screws your banshee will not idle correctly.....and without the screws you have no way to adjust the idle. you can order idle screws from the sponsors on this site....they aren't that expensive at all. in order to find you pilot and main jet sizes you will need to disassemble one of your carbs....on the jets it will say what size they are

we need some more info. did this happen after the fresh top end got put in or was it an on-going battle. when it got reassembled did you make sure to put the tube between the carbs back in? what's your jetting at? and did you do a leakdown test after the fresh rebuild?

we need some more info here....like where you're at in altitude and what main jet and pilot jets you are running. the backfiring at WOT makes me believe that you may be running a little lean on the top side of the powerband.

yea 2strokes can actually rev up on their own if you run the fuel out of them....plus since the fuel is being run out of it (starved) it actually will (over a long time) spin the motor multiple times without fuel/oil being in the cylinder. you may also want to drain your fuel tank and then pull the fuel-valve off the tank and carefully check/clean the in-tank filter. and while your at it make sure your vent tube on the fuel cap is clear. as for shops on the west side im lost....i live on the east side of Mi so i don't know of shops out there... and since your float stuck in the up position causing the fuel to overflow it may be stuck in the down position restricting the fuel into the bowls.....try tapping gently on the float bowls a few times then trying to start it.

when you took your carb off to spray out the float did you remember to put the carb-tube back in place between the two tubes? sometimes people forget this part and its a headbanger tryin to get the shee's to start. Why are you runnin the fuel outta the carbs? its actually hard on a 2stroke to keep doin that....plus it can actually cause the motor to go into an unrestricted rev. but if it worries you that much you can always just turn the fuel off and drain the carbs using the carb drains on the bowls themselves. As for your spare engine....id suggest giving jeff from F.A.S.T. a call....tell him exactly what you want and exactly what you are running on your bike and what you want to upgrade later on and he can build the engine to you. Let us know what you find with your current motor.

haha yea i was thinkin the same thing...but i also know that when it comes to the "premium fuel" labels on cars it can be mis-leading. There are a few car companies that put "premium fuel only" labels on their guages.....when they actually mean QUALITY fuel... those cars can be run fine on 87 oct....the car company just wants to cover their ass in third world countries where they sell dirty fuel. BUT....we're not talkin banshees.... but i think your right....i think the manuals call for 91 oct to be run for safety measures

haha....good point....9000 revs and water dont usually turn out good...tempered or not. even if the tempering were to hold up to a hydro-lock it would just the force into another part that can't hold the force haha

no worries marc...i know what they're talkin about...haha....its a spray on gasket that gets sprayed onto the gaskets and helps adhere the gaskets to the mating surfaces....either you or i can pick up a can when next time we get some time in the garge...lol

what i really want to know is where does one come up with the idea of putting mop and glow into a paint gun.....haha

Ray's an awsome guy....bought a bunch of parts from him.....hell i even got his # in my phone cause im always lookin for stuff. He's really an awsome guy with massive amounts of used parts.....and he's actually really good on prices too. Here's to becoming a site sponor....