Jereme6655

also don't forget that EVERY banshee winds up jetting differently. i can have the same setup you have and mine might like a different main-jet. its just how it is haha....but it keeps you wrenching on your own stuff and that's how you find problems... and you WILL need to change your pilot jets along with your main jets. the pilot jets you should need are 27.5 pilots.

The TORS (throttle over-ride system) is usually ripped off the shee's....they seem to always go bad and leave your shee restricted in teh rpm and running like ass. While the TORS is still on your carbs you will not have the idle screws on the carbs.....the idle screws come stock on the top of the TORS units. If you pull your seat you should see a knob the size of a dime on the top of the TORS....thiey are how you change your idle while you still have the tors on.

like elka said....they can be reliable. And with anything....if you modify the shit out of it....then its chances of breaking down are higher along with the repair bill HAHA. The best thing you can do for yourself is get yourself a clymber or a haynes manual for your banshee.....they will save you ALOT of money as its a 2-stroke....so its rather simple technology to repair yourself. Other than that the banshee is an AMAZING quad that can entertain you for years if your build it right and just do regular amounts of maintenance.

along with starving the motor for fuel and oil...when you run a 2-stroke out of fuel you can actually cause it to go into a run-away throttle situation. like mentioned before...it will begin to rev itself up...just the nature of the beast

and there's not really a dumb question....ya you'll get a few guys that will razz you about a question or 2....but we've all been there....shit that's how we've learned some of what we know......haha

on the in-bound side of each carb there is a nipple....its basically in the center of the carb....it is for a tube that goes from one carb to the other carb. alot of times when the carbs get pulled off for cleaning or adjustment the choke tube gets forgotten about...unless you've been burned by it before.

yea...they will still run "decently strong"....but after the rebuild you'll notice the difference. There SHOULD be idle screws on both.....the choke is what is actually works thru vacuum......there should be a small black tube between the stock carbs...if they are still stock carbs. To get a compression tester to be accurate you need to use one that has the same length tip as the spark plug AND has the shrader valve in the end of it.

haha yup....your right damnit.

wait...STOP. first off....are you REBUILDING or just taking the engine apart for inspection and reassembling it? if your rebuilding it then you need to take it to a machine shop and have them mic it....they will tell you how much you need to have bored out of the cylinder to make it round and to make it fit a certain sized piston. they will also have to chamfer the cylinder ports so the rings don't get destroyed. When they measure it they can tell you what sized piston to order.....be smart and order wiesco pistons....then take them the pistons and they will measure the piston then bore the cylinder to match it. if you just go and buy 64.50mm pistons they will not work if your old pisons were 64.00mm pistons!

damn phelps....beat me to it haha

a dome is what fits inside of a aftermarket performance head....such as a coolhead or a FAST perofrmance head. they are heads that allow different cc combustion chambers to be put in and changed for more compression per cylinder equalling more power. 16, 17, 18 and so on are the cc of the domes. in order to run a smaller dome (meaning less space for same amount of fuel/air equaling more compression) you have to do other things such as run higher octane fuel or even race gas once your compression gets too high. otherwise your bike go boom...

like toytech said....they put a really really strong magnet to it and use super fine metal powder...it makes ANY crack stand way the hell out.....its a sure test to see if its a crack or not. the cracked edges actually wind up acting as a N and S pole and display the crack in the powder.

i can barely make it out....but i see what your talking about......i'd take it to a quality engine machine shop and see if they can magnaflux it for you. it will be an absolute sure way to tell...that way you don't grenade an entire new top end along with your bottom end. Its not expensive and it will only take them a VERY short time....like minutes. the only reason i suggest that is that it looks like the line zigs and zags back and forth like a stress crack as oppose to a scratch from disassembly...

sandriders got it....its 3 degrees for every 1psi of pressure

sounds alot like you need to do a top-end rebuild. alot of 2-strokes will not kick-start when when the compression gets stupid low...but they will run when pull-started. do a compression check and let us know what you find. anything under 100 psi is gonna be needing a rebuild...

yea im runnin a set of Fatty's too.....they're really not respected the way they should be! they do pull pretty hard and i really like the sound they chop all through the power-band

yea your a LITTLE lean there what pilots are you running? you should be running a 27.5 pilot jet when your running aftermarket performance exhaust...

looked to me that going up one pilot ment that in going this i had to go down 2 main jet sizes is this tru the pilot jet operates the fuel control from idle to 1/8 th throttle. after 1/8 th throttle the needle opens up the main jet allowing it to run more fuel. the pilot jet is ALWAYS fully open....so even at WOT the pilot jet is being used. its possible that you may have had to come down a main jet or two if you bumped it up in the pilot....but you'd have to have been running rich in order to have ti really cause a problem. its not too wierd but its not common to have to drop down after a jump up on the pilot

and in all truth a good machinest will actually measure your cylinders and tell you what size your going to need. then when you order them you can take them into him and he will actually re-check the pistons that were bought and then bore the cylinders to the pistons that you bought.

your gonna want to use the wiesco......the namura pistons are cast pistons. The wiesco's are forged....so they're stronger and will last longer. Look up the site sponsors like alf or FAST or Vitos...they'll be able to get you a really good price on the piston kits. Your not gonna notice a power gain with the boring....but you will notice a boost from the 90 psi your running currently

did you make sure your choke tube between your carbs is in place?

First off welcome to the site!!! We gotta lot of info....but we need more info on your bike to help. Any mods...pipes,airfilters...anything?

it is normal for a slight thump to be felt when you shift from neutral to first gear....just the nature of the beast. And as far as finding neutral goes....chances are your just having a problem like all the banshee's have.....a REALLY tough to find neutral. There is a fix for this...you can either purchase a new or remove your shift star and grind it down....which will make it shift easier between gears and also make it easier to get into neutral. Check with some of the site sponsors...i know they sell them.

question for you....how many times have you tried starting it...and how close was it to the first problem. The only reason im askin is cause my buddy occasionally has this problem....we actually discovered that it was the extreme bouncing in his trailer that was causing his carb bowls to drain out into the engine flooding it. Now we just turn is fuel petcock off whenever it gets tossed in the trailer and we've never had that problem before. Only reason we even tried turnin the fuel off is cause his moded snowmobile is SUPER pissy about being trailered with the gas on...

gotcha on the power-washing and makin the tears larger.... running too small of a pilot can make it kinda bog out at idle. Do you have a drop in k&n filter on it or is the air-box totally removed makin it a fully exposed filter.... good catch AK....i totally forgot about the water causin the carbs to rev...