Jereme6655

stock carbs? do they still have the TORS on them?

try doing a compression test now...and let us know where its at. When you installed your pistons did you make sure the gap in the ring was lined up with the small pin in the ring-land? i only ask cause ive seen this fuck someone over before.....they pu the rings on wrong and it wouldn't start so they tried pull starting it and wound up having to get it re-bored and a new piston cause it scored the hell outta the both of them..... let us know what your compression is now....it'll help with diagnosing...

sorry to say it.....BUT.... faster, keeping up with the big boys, and not hurting the pocket books....are phrases that don't mix. but porting and pod filters or a 2-to-1 will help.

damn cajun....hoistin the front while cruisin pretty fast haha.......both your tires got the same pressure in them? maybe thats why you're pullin to one side?

when the packing gets REALLY oily or burnt up its time to replace it. its pretty cheap to buy it....its around $8 for a package of it thru some of the sponsor on here.

the numbers are on the pilot jets....they're jsut really small and a bitch to read. and a plug chop tells you if your runnin rich or lean .....here's how to do it Warm up shee on old plugs.. Ride shee to area where you can make one pass as fast as she'll go. install 2 NEW plugs. start the shee and pin it to win it. run it as HARD as you can all the way through 6th gear......THEN (VERY IMPORTANT) when you hit top end pull the clutch in and shut the motor off. Then remove your plugs and take them home using the 1st plugs to get you back......and chop the threads off the new plugs to see the color of the porcelan on electrode. you want a nice milk choclate ring 2mm tall from the base of the plug. if its dark brown your running rich and need to jet down......if its too light then you're running lean and you need to jet up some.

What oil ratio are you running in your fuel mix? and running it for that long pinned isn't really that good of an idea.....runnin any 2-strokes that long at WOT is a bad idea as they cannot keep up with lubing themselves at that rpm. If you are going to run it that hard you should be constantly blipping the throttle.

and you should also really jump your pilot jet from that 25 up to a 27.5 The 25 is a stock pilot jet size and MOST pipes and shee's run a ton better when they go up a pilot size with aftermarket pipes.

hey AK....almost sounds like he may have had a fractured piston skirt and the shock from the trans may have just dislodged it and dropped it into his crank lockin it up......at least thats what comes to mind to me when he said he put it in gear then he heard a thump and it locked up. If that was the case....that's just a bad timing situation lol

ya....ditch the boost bottle. and like said....get some aftermarket pipes. What kind of riding do you do? FMF Fatties make for some really good trail pipes as they are more of a midrange power pipe. You can also pull your cylinders off and send them out to a builder that is a sponsor on this site and have them ported....from what i've heard its a BIG kick in the pants from stock power.

yes but your friends raptor is a 4-stroke......much easier of a powerband when it comes to bringin the power on. the banshee's powerband makes it a bitch to drive in the snow....cause when your motor does perk up...its already too late to keep from breakin the tires loose.

Yes there are sponsors on this site....im sure almost all of them on the site will be able to sell you what you need for the rebuild. I do know that Jeff from FAST Racing does have everything to do the rebuild. AND if you did hve a bad experience with boring out cylinders...and are still slightly concerned....you can send them out to one of the site sponsors. They are the serious ones to consult with these motors and they know what they are doing. The upside of doing this is when you send out your cylinders they can mic them to determine size then they can grab the right piston off their shelves and bore the cylinder to the correct size. They can honestly do these things in their sleep. and if you want to get a port job to really wake up your bike they can do that too. One note on getting the cylinders bored if you DONT go through a site sponor.......ask if the shop knows about champfering the enges for the cylinders.....if they give you a puzzled look...RUN!!! Banshee's need chamfered edges around the ports so the rings don't snag when the piston is runnin its stroke.

ummm....you got a reading with 160 psi per cylinder? That would be race gas territory. If your not running race gas you are causing detonation inside your cylinders being that high on the compression (may be why you cant get her to idle right). You should definately be running something higher in the octane than just pump gas.

why are you against boring out your cylinders? They are 2-stroke cylinders so they are designed to be bored out.....it is how all 2-stroke rebuilds are done. The stock cylinders come with PLENTY of meat in them to be bored multiple times.......so when you get your pistons out just take your cylinders to a reputable shop and have them measured......they can tell you how many more times you can SAFELY bore it out.

Since your interested in goin with a 4mill and porting and a rebuild and all that fun stuff i'd suggest you call Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing. He's a sponsor here and has a great reputation. He has everything that you need for your problem.....from your pistons for that rebuild all the way to different pipes for you to run. www.farmandsandtoys.com or 785-364-5325

pull one carb off at a time.....take the float boal off of the bottom of the carb. there is a little brass bolt with a hole in it that is holding a white plastic shield on (the bolt with the hole is your main jet!) just above or below it (can't remeber which) there is a SMALL hole that has a TINY pilot jet down in it.....it requires a small flat head screwdriver to get to it... the numbers of the jets are marked on them...

did you rejet the carbs since you put on the pipes and head? do you have stock carbs? and is the choke tube in place between the two carbs?

its supposed to be 10% of each other..... but that would still make it around 10 psi hahah........

120 is pretty close to bein a fresh rebuild. easily runable is 100-120...............90 will still run but its gettin time to look into a rebuild those psi's are for a stock head though.....if its got a aftermarket head like a Coolhead or a shaved stock head then the psi's can be different (as in higher)

Hmm......strange. What model Wiesco's are you runnin in it? Only reason i ask is cause we have a race built CR125 which requires 3 oil passages to be drilled and chamfered before installation. Im sure the guys on here can tell you what model piston that was on and whether the model you put in requires those holes...

More than likely it started reving up on you because it was lean at idle......and the cracked reed pedal could have been the reasoning for the bog when you restarted. Rejet it and do a plug chop to tell if your jetting is correct. We can get you close to the right jetting if you list all your mods.....but every banshee is slightly different....that's the reason for plug chops on all banshees.

Did you do a pressure test on the motor after it was assembled to see if you had a small air leak?

did you put the t-6's on? is this a new banshee to you? askin cause it kinda sounds like you may be runnin the wrong jets in your carbs.......what size are your pilot jets and main jets?

okay....lets start simple.....NO MORE STARTING IT WITH STARTING FLUID!!! starting fluid doesn't have oil mixed in with it so you're basically running it with no oil = bad BAD thing. but since you did and it DID start real quick...that means you've got spark... but you said you aren't getting gas........don't take this the wrong way....but ive been fucked over by it before.... Is there enough fuel in the tank? Is there ANY in the tank (if there is but its low...then try turning the fuel valve to reserve). IF its got plenty of fuel in it then pull the fuel line off the carb and turn the fuel valve on and see if its flowing fuel out of the fuel line.... if it is then your carbs are definately goofed inside. when you cleaned them out did you maybe mix up the slides? the slides CAN go in the wrong way into the wrong carbs... let us know...

ahh the thunder-gun......nothin says you value your tools more than a impact that's able to bend metal....break welds...or absolutely fuck up the part you were trying to remove the bolt from....BAHAHAHA. no seriously though....the thunder-gun aint nothing to laugh at.....DAMN strong! and like said......put a good crank on the flywheeler puller and hit the end of the puller with a hammer......if that still doesn't work try this.....this takes longer but works the same.... step 1......put puller on step 2.....crank puller on pretty damn tight (use common sense here....don't put a freakin 8 ft breaker bar on it...) step 3.....go inside and grab a beer step 4.....check on it in AM and it should have popped off from the force being applied all night...