Jereme6655

well...if you ride mud alot then you should really hose out the fins on your radiator. Also the banshee water impellors also tend to go bad. start your bike and open the radiator and look at the coolant....you should be able to see it flowing....if you can't see it then your problem is the stock plastic impellor. Get yourself a nice billet one.

Welcome to the site!! The carbs are something that need to be maintained every so often. other than that you need to ditch that boost bottle and get yourself a standard cross-over tube. The boost bottles weight is too much for the cross-over boots to handle and it will eventually tear it and run your motor lean....

hey drew i bet vito's could get you that crank pretty quick seein as how they're like right around the corner from us here in michigan...give him a call....he's got a pretty good rep around here

the elcectrical boxes ontop of your carbs are TORS units (throttle over ride system) its meant to keep your bike from runnin away when it sees that the carbs are opened up but the thumb throttle is still at idle. The reason your bike is screaming up in the RPM's is because it sounds like you have a large air leak. When you get an air leak on a 2-stroke it leans the fuel/air ration out and will make the motor "free-rev" or rev up completely on its own. The best way to find your leak and make sure you have no more is to look at one of the sticky threads up on the forum.....there's one on how to do a leak-down test. you want your motor to hold 6psi of air for 6 minutes.....if it passes that then your golden. If it doesn't (which i believe yours wont by the way you've described it) the air will continue to leak out which will give you the ability to spray soapy water on all seals and find the leaks.

put a new tag there that says "no fat chicks"

nope....the TORS and the P-Brake circuit are two different circuits.....the p-brake limiter gets clipped by the CDI box. AK sayin clip means cut the wires....

agreed....if you buy a decent wiesco piston you will not have to worry about the piston being the unreliable part of the rebuild.

have you checked out your pipes or silencers? a mouse or something may have gotten in to your pipes or silencers and plugged up the pipes.....resulting in too much back pressure to allow it to run

your stockly carbs will handle that fine

haha....your right on the runnin it dry on a cold motor......but i figure most are gonna be a little sad about stuffin it away for the winter....invoking a one last blast down the street. hahaha

hey AK....how many heat cycles do you usually run through before givin her a good beat-down?

small air leak on your left side and maybe jetted the left carb to be a tad rich??

he only sells one....can't screw it up haha.....but one of the other guys will know....i vote on just using FAST cause he's a real reputable builder and has done some really really impressive work on alot of bikes for guys on this site.

the loss of power can be caused by the mix of fuel and coolant in the cylinder.....as coolant is not flamable.

you can purchase them through any sponsor here on the site. i know Jeff from F.A.S.T sells them.

running the fuel out of any 2stroke is a bad idea. when you run them outta fuel you are also running them out of oil.....so your rotating your pistons still with zero lubrication. also when you run 2strokes dry they can cause a "run-away" engine issue......basically the motor will start to rev up on its own uncontrollably

well if your bike has the mods that are listed in your signature and nothing more then its no where near race gas compression. like said before....timing does not increase your compression. it only changes when the spark plug ignites the fuel mix in your cylinder based on the cylinders position. most people will run +4 on the timing....seems to be the best for most shee's

like savage said.....drain tank and drain carb bowls. then for a little extra coverage i spray a little fogging oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole and slowly give it one kick. depending if your keeping it at say a cottage (in the woods as opposed to the city) we will even go the route of taping (or jamming a piece of steel wool) into the exhaust to keep mice from entering into the pipes.....if you don't have spark arresters.

nope....race gas is needed when your crankin more than 150 psi..... timing doesn't increase your compression....changes when the spark plugs fire.

you should do a leakdown test to insure that you don't have any leaks from the gaskets....its almost a sure way to get them all taken care of before you begin doing heat cycles

no you do not need to replace the piston rings.....im not sure about the base gaskets though....

is there a company out there that makes a QUALITY re-usable head gasket?? like maybe a neoprene one or one that uses a preformed o-ring style gasket?

ok this isn't related to the electrical....but are you shutting your fuel off when your done riding (as in shuttin the motor down then turning the fuel line off for storage?) my friends got a built up sled motor that had issues with a super hard start when it was cold.... it wound up being a pinched over-flow tube and slightly misadjusted carb floats.......basically if he didn't shut his fuel off the floats would allow the bowls to slowly continue to fill......and since the over-flow was pinched off it was flooding into the pipe...making it an absolute BITCH to start.

i know im gonna get yelled at for this one.......but have you tried a LITTLE bit of starting fluid yet? The problem with using starting fluid alot on a 2stroker is there's no oil in the starting fluid so its like running it without oil in your fuel.....it'll tear your shit up if your not careful with it. The few times i have had to use it on 2-strokes ill take about a 1/4 ouce of 2stroke oil and pour it into the cylinder (helps lube for the starting fluid) then ill use a SMALL amount of starting fluid shot right into the carbs.

what size pilot jet are you running? the # IS on the pilot jet also....although its really small so you may not be able to see it without lookin real close. like said.....stock is a 25. But if your running pipes you should be running a 27.5 my bike had a similar problem to yours and would clear itself up when it got above 1/4 throttle. dropped in the 27.5's and it ran like a raped ape.... also what altitude are you riding at?