Jereme6655

2 things first.... one .....if you are currently running a 15 on the front and only going 60....there is something wrong with your bike. Fix it and get jetting on that thing first. two...... There is no reason to go that fast in anything but a sanctioned drag race. Trust me....I get it....we all want to run our bikes hard as hell and see what it can do........but its not worth riskin your life over. And trust me....running down a country road at those speeds is risking your life. Yes yes....ive done it before. But that doesn't mean I warrant it anymore. Forget to tighten a hub bolt? Break a tie-rod? shear and axle? big pot hole? shear the wheel lugs? break a ball joint? Guess what.....if any of those things happen......your going to smoke a tree at 70-80 that your wishing to be going. At 70 mph......your dead when you smack that tree...... I know ill prob get flamed......but fuck it.....just want to get you to thinking of all the consequences before you do it. We already pay too much out of our own pocket to take care of moron kids who wind up brain dead from doing something COMPLETELY stupid.

sorry to tell you jacowils......your gonna be over. Im about 95% sure you're going to be too high to continue on jut straight premium fuel. My setup I run 20cc domes, k&n pods, fmf fatties, vf2 reeds, and a dune/play port by Jeff at FAST and my bike runs absolutely great on premium fuel. However.....your setup being that it is still on the stock port jobs (I think it is because you never mentioned a port job) will have more compression when you put in 20cc domes vs if you had a port job done and then tried the same 20cc domes. It has to do with the port timing.....when the piston moves past and either opens or closes the ports.

haha...when he means rework it he means re-message the transfers and custom cut different domes. The major problem that trinity has was incorrect dome designs that FORCED the motor to detonate and eat itself to death. Unless you have the ability and brain power, along with the machinery and blanks to do custom cuts.......GO FOR IT! haha.........but DEFINATELY, we on this site are TOTALLY for rebuilding and doing all the work (as much as we can) on our own.

boring a 2 stroke does NOT get you power. The reason you need to rebuild a 2 stroke is due to the amount of wear compared to a 4stroke on the piston/cylinder.

run it.

Stock compression is around 125psi in each jug......with some variance due to elevation depending where you are. That being said.....don't always count that 125 is where your bike is actually at due to the upgrades.........it all comes down to what cc domes are in the head and what/whether there has been port work done to your cylinders. Stock bikes push 125 psi and at about 110 they get harder to start. At about 100 they are push start bikes. There is a down side to your bike that others will start mentioning.....and I hope it has been worked over already for you. That part is TRINITY. While they may do some builds on 4 stroke quads decent.........they have failed time and time again in the Banshee world. To the point where there name is on par with the word cancer to a banshee owner. There are a few "trinity" cylinders out there that have been sent out to a few of our site sponsors and while they shook their heads the entire time at trinitys ignorance.....they were able to solve the issues and make some decently hard runners. If I remember correctly........its pretty much trinitys shitty ability to do math and design as it was their dome designs that were causing issues. And when I mean issues.....I mean issues that usually cost you your motor. Where are you at? Keep us posted and let us know what you find with your compression test. AND THANKS FOR STAYING 2 STROKE!

10:1 odds its your jetting. I know you put in the "Toomey perfect jet kit".....but there is a problem with that statement and I have never liked the idea of a "perfect jet kit." Reason being, they aren't perfect......no motor is the same. Your bike may like a 310main and mine runs like piss until I drop in a 320......so buying a specific kit isn't going to work. Also I bet you any money says that the Toomey kit is JUST solely for their exhaust........not including the K&N.......which would lean you out. Since your new to this we will take it easy on you when it comes to jetting. My bike did a similar thing when I first bought it and knew nothing about banshee's. Left side would run....and the right side would run when you hammered on the throttle past 1/2 way.........thankfully I noticed it relatively quick and shut it down. The problem was having too lean of a pilot jet in the carbs.........(pilot jet is the metering hole that allows fuel into the motor from idle on) Anytime you allow these machines to "inhale" or "exhale" any different than they used to.........you must also change the jetting. Remember.....2.strokes live and die based on the amount of fuel they are fed as they cant get enough lubrication if you don't allow them to swallow enough fuel. If you remember.......what Jets came included in your jetting kit? like what numbers.........and also.....what elevation and temp are you at right now. Temperature and elevation also vastly effect your jetting.

as these guys have said....soapy water and check all the areas that leaking is possible. technically you can leak off 1psi per minute and still run it. However I do not let my motor out of my shop unless it is leaking less than 1psi in over 15 minute time span. That being said.....there are a few places that these guys have mentioned about that tend to leak more than others. Every motor is different so keep that in mind when your doing your leakdown test. For instance.....my motor tends to like to leak between the reed cage and the cylinder.....to the point that I have to use a little dab of case sealer to aid in sealing it. However I've never had to seal the keyway on my cranks. ALSO the crush washers on the spark plugs can bite you in the ass.

pipes, decent carbs, air filters for the decent sized carbs, advance the timing to +4, and throw a cool head with smaller domes on there to up the compression. All bolt ons that are pretty decently cheap that will net you a good kick in the butt from what your used to knowing.

carbs don't have moving parts? So the floats, slide and needle aren't moving parts? DAMN we've been thinking of this ALL wrong then.....hahahahaha. BUT very true.....find a new mechanic.....as the only part ive ever seen with wear was a slide or a bent needle from someone forcing it into the carb body. The odds you will wear a carb out is little to none.....more towards the none.

Just pull it apart and take a look again. there shouldn't be any real resistance....Just be thorough and make sure you get everything back together correctly. AND while your at it, grab all your measuring gear and start taking measurements on that new crank. Hell....remember.....these things aren't impervious to human error.......guy could have had an off day and poof.....you get a spooked crank.

Just do the plug chop to ensure your not damaging it. If you do plug chops you aren't going to hurt it later. However if you keep riding it.....even if your running it rich....you could do damage. If its jetted too rich you can actually cause it to over heat.....

the fluid that is on the piston did not come from the leak you have. That wound up on the piston from pulling the head.....it just what happens when you want to check the pistons. There really isn't a way to get to the crank case without cracking it open.

Im taking it your looking at the pin holes in the dome and in the head? That is caused from detonation. Either an air leak, too much compression for the fuel your running, or too much timing. What's been done to your motor? What elevation and jetting are you running......and what fuel are you running in your bike. There's a good chance it wasn't done by you....you can continue to run the top end the way it is (as it doesn't look that bad in the photos)......but good job on finding the problems. Just remember.....2 strokes live and die based on fuel/oil mix........so when you run it up hard because you "think it sounds funny".....that's some serious rpm to just "hear" a sound........be safer than sorry and find the problems.

woffy.....like said....try a new seal, with an extremely clean surface. And also watch the amount of fluid you put in the trans. Where are you from in Michigan? I ride quite often in Mio.

Since you've worked on auto engines for some time......reed "valves" on a 2 stroke are the literal comparison to valves in a 4 stroke motor. Different is.....they are a spring loaded flap......its intent is to let air/fuel pull the reed open using vacuum to suck the air/fuel charge in....and on a 2 stroke since there is exhaust back-pressure/reverb.....when the pressure comes back due to the exhaust.....the reeds are meant to snap shut and be held shut by the pressure.

keep in the back of your mind that those are the gas tank dowels.......as no matter what...you still have to pick up those damn things off the floor....

You do know that you can fill the banshee radiator all the way correct? What I should say is that when you fill the radiator on the banshee all the way up.....it will puke out coolant until it gets to a certain point where it will then stop over flowing....its roughly about an inch from the top of the radiator.

are you SURE that you put both the pistons in the correct way and didn't mistakenly reverse a piston?

the left handed drill bit will not work. Listen to what we are saying.......it is not threaded. it is a solid "push" style rod. It is basically a spacer that goes from the actuator arm to the ball bearing. Its just a spacer.........no threads, no nothing. If it has no threads then it wont be able to be extracted with a left hand drill bit. This problem is caused by someone who doesn't know what they're doing with a clutch setup. You cannot hold the clutch in and coast for a long distance on these setups without a pancake bearing. Get one. They're about $40-50.

That oil ratio is WAY heavy unless your planning on running Yamaha oil. If your running a decent synthetic......back it off to 40:1. That's where I run my motor and a few guys here will run quality synthetics up to 50:1. You will find the average on the site is that people will run 32:1 and have had zero problems. So 16:1 is WAY WAY WAY too much oil.

time to get out the volt meter and grab a Clymer manual.....sounds like you could have an electrical component that is starting to go weak. Make sure you also check the resistance of the spark plug wires as they have been known to go high with resistance also.

with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.....every psi of pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant by 3*. So that being said....if your radiator cap IS still holding the 15psi rating.......your coolant wont point until 247*f. Your jetting is still in question......as a 260 main for pods, and fmf's is pretty lean. Remember.....the higher the elevation, there is less air volume.....so you need less fuel. When you go DOWN in elevation, you gain air volume......so you need to account for that and go up main sizes. HOWEVER....there is an opposite side many don't mention/realize........being too rich on jets can ALSO cause your bike to run hot. Here in Michigan for 80-85* temps with pods and fmf fatties, I was running 270-280 main jets. And we are ride at 1200' When you checked the plugs......were they checked after doing a plug chop AT the location you were riding at? or were you just checking the plugs that you had been running all day? If you had been running them all day already.....you cannot take a reading on jetting by those......unless your WAY WAY off.... you wont see a huge difference.

what is your jetting? Is the small vacuum tube (choke tube) plugged in between the two carbs? How about the throttle over-ride system? (TORS) Look under your gas tank and on the left side there should be a small black box......disconnect the wiring to it. After all that......then check to see whether you have spark or not. Report all your findings....

just put in your exhaust and carb plugs and pressurize it to 6psi......You can just pull the trans dip stick to check to see if it is leaking. If your motor holds 6psi for 6 minutes WITH NO MORE than 1psi loss per minute it is fine. However I ensure that the motor does not leak at all.....my motor has held 6psi for more than 30 minutes. The transmission in the banshee should NOT wind up getting pressurized. The crank area and the transmission are separated in the cases by a wall to keep the bike from pulling trans fluid into the crank and burning it up. Let us know your findings....