Jereme6655

case porting is just like it sounds....they port your cases which is good for approx. 2-3 hp.......downside is you gotta split your cases to get them ported. While your T-6 pipes are good pipes......they are good for STOCK motors. They do not perform good at all if you start modding your motor.....they will actually hamper your performance rather than enhance...

yes it will help it idle SOME. 2-strokes live and die with jetting. its not that prevelant on 4-pokes because they have a serperate oil system.....2-strokes die because of lack of enough lube to make things stay in shape. There is a thread in the jetting board that tells how to do a plug chop....id recommend that. And remember that no matter what.....when the temperature drops or rises (depending what your jetted at) you need to change your jet sizes!!!!!

its a tight fit.......but it will come out....if it wont come out then your bikes got a bent steering neck....BUT it will come out.....gotta pop the back up really hard to get it to come out.

Agreed with Phelps

it is fun to ride lakes....and yes they scream hard in the winter. BUT the odds of blowing up your bike actually increase if you don't rejet. The colder the air is means that it is also more dense.....so there's more air molecules in the same amount of room as say when its 100* outside. More Air means you gotta throw more fuel at your bike to keep it from running lean which means you must rejet. Other than that there isnt anything difference as to whether your motor will blow up. And i don't like to keep it pinned in 6th for really long distances....never have and never will

reed gaskets

what other mods are done? any? you should be running MINIMUM 91 octane if not higher......you may want to contact him again and see what fuel he was running in it.... Also pull the pilots out and look at the marking on it....25 is stock and the fatties along with most aftermarket pipes require a larger pilot jet such as a 27.5 Running a 25 pilot and aftermarket pipes will make it hard to start alone.....not counting the cold weather. Jump those pilots up one size and it'll also help cold weather starting

look at our site sponsors website or give them a call....they're all GREAT people..... Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing has my cylinders right now.....

what pilot jets are in it?

This is one of the reasons we use site sponsors here......we know that the site sponsors here aren't goign to fuck us over. Did you send them enough in the money order to complete all the work? Did they give you a estimated time of repair? If they did and you sent them the full amount then id call them and leave a message AND email them and tell them that you are going to give them 1 week of time to hear back from them before you start taking legal actions. It IS theft even if you pay them to preform a service and they DO NOT do the work or will not return your parts. Also you could call your local news stations and see fi they can help you.....you wouldn't believe the kind of work companies will suddenly do when they have a news reporter calling them asking why you will not do mr. smiths work and if they would be up for a on camera interview....

your runnin aftermarket pipes and stock pilot jets........your lean on the pilot circuit. go get some 27.5's and run those....it'll help your bike not only during the cold for start up.......but it will help your bike all year round as aftermarket pipes really need to run 27.5 pilot jets....

Alot of guys on here will tell you to just run Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F......which you should be able to pick up at any automotive repair store. You have to make sure your using "type F" fluid as it does not have any additives in it. ive had ATF in my bike for a full season now and there is no extra wear cause by using the atf as gear oil.

Fraser checkin in here......been out on the lake a few times....its a blast....

Loco could start 5 new posts (1 per class) at the end of march and have everyone entereing it post up one previous and one current. To make sure people aren't using really old photos of their bike and just puttin up pics of their current bike (then what the true point of the build off) we could start the builds on january 1st.....and say you must have the previous photo of your shee assembled (old look) with a January or newer dated newspaper. Helps keep the honest people honest.... hahahaha

i put larger (27.5) pilot jets in the carbs.....clearned it right up.

my left cylinder was doing the exact same thing.....the right was running perfectly fine (or it seemed) and at idle it would run fine......give it a little throttle and the left cyl would cut out and around when i hit mid-throttle (where the main needle was really startin to open up) the left cylinder would actually come back and it would run like a raped ape...

while your there get yourself some 27.5 pilot jets. no doubt that is part of your problem......aftermarket pipes really do need a lil more fuel at the low end. you can get jets from most site sponsors along with ordering them on-line or even snowmobile shops will carry the mikuni hex head main jets. If youd like you could even call a site sponsor (im gonna suggest Jeff at FAST) and tell him your mods and what jets your running right now and he'll tell you what you need to be running.....

dont go with a .040 bore yet man.....start at the smallest size. Otherwise your only shortening the life of your cylinders. Give Jeff at F.A.S.T. (Farmandsandtoys.com) a call and he can set you up. He can get you the correct sized top end kit for almost that price.....or even better yet....you can just send him your cylinders and he can bore/hone and chamfer the intakes (like your supposed to do) and then send you the cylinders and top end kit and everything you'll need. He is actually pretty cheap when you think of it.......he does the bore and hone for like $100 total for both cylinders. Oh ya....and i didnt see any price in your listing for the machining cost of the cylinders which will be anywhere from $100-$180

my bike was doing the same thing when i first picked it up.....turned out to be too small of a pilot jet (stock). what pipes are you running and what pilot jet do you have in the bike? may want to try and jump up one size...

well.....yep....your gonna need to do a rebuild on the top end. its definately melted itself down. The tiny bits of "dirt" are actually tiny bits of metal that are heated onto and stuck to your spark plug.

okay....stop yelling heater..... change your pilots to 27.5s.....the fatties will like it and it should aid in starting also. Is your choke tube on or maybe fall off? Did you do a leak down test? and it may have become flooded.......pull off your silencers and tip it back on its back and maybe a little farther without letting it fall over and see if you get fuel out of the pipes......ive seen it where they become flooded and the less size of the expansion chamber (due to so much fuel in it) causes the bike not to fire.

yes there is one pilot jet in each carb. If you take the float bowl off of your carb you should see a SMALL circle opening.....shine a flashlight down it and you should see a very small brass colored pilot jet. it requires a flat-head screwdriver to unscrew the pilot jet.

you have the choke tube in place between the carb? how about stepping up that pilot jet in the carbs to a 27.5. when i got my bike it had stock 25 pilots in it and had FMF fatties......thing would BARELY run on two cylinders until you got above 1/2 throttle........dropped in 27.5's and it woke the thing up and smoothed out my non-running cylinder issues

doing a plug chop is how you tell whether your bike is running rich/lean. you warm the bike up on the old spark plugs and once warm you install new plugs. then you make a full speed run.....1-6th gear. When you top out in 6th you want to pull the clutch in and shut down the motor and coast to a stop. then install your old spark plugs again and take your new (just tested) plugs back with you. what you want to do it cut the threaded ends off the tested plugs and look for the carbon ring that is on the porcilan segment of the plug. you want it to be approx. 2mm in depth from the base towards the electrode and have a light brown color (much like the color of a carb board box). If it is too white then your bike is running too lean.....too dark and your bike is running too rich. running a bike too lean will cause premature failure while running it too rich will cause a loss in performance.

the filter all depends on what you typically ride in......the stock airbox is pretty good at blocking alot of things/dirt from entering your engine.....however it is also pretty damn restrictive.