Jereme6655

your looking for more acceleration? or more top end? depending on the trails your ride a 16t up front it pretty tall.....you could always drop it down to stock (14/41) and see if you like that better.....it should give you a hell of alot more of a hard launch and hard pull feel as you will hit the powerband sooner....but you will notice you will be shifting slightly more often.

if your thinking of getting the port work done to add some good power then send the jugs out to a site sponsor.......like Larry said....you really gotta know what your doing before you start just grinding away. 4stroke porting and 2stroke porting are totally different because the timing of the ports (ie when the pistons open and close the transfer ports) is pretty critical. and if your thinking of getting it ported you may also want to look into just having the site sponsor bore it and hone it for you and order rebuild kit through them. unless of course you know for sure that your rebuild was done correctly relatively recently. its alot easier to get it done all at once than to take it all apart twice because you held off on doing a rebuild. and the site sponsors can actually get your rebuild done usually for cheaper than you can because they get their pistons at a killer rate....

i used a 3/8 torque wrench and for those ill put a 3in extension on and a shorty socket and i can manage to squeak the socket on carefully...

howd you get it off?

your gonna run a 485 pv motor in the trails? wow....should be...interesting hahaha

fouled out plugs?

oh and i was talkin to jeff from FAST on friday and he was sayin some good things about Badassbanshee......said you've got a mean little bike haha.

pm = private message. if you click on badassbanshee's name (to look in his profile) there is a button kinda like facebook that says send me a message. that's what he's sayin to do haha.

you may have found the problem.......the real test comes when its time to start it from being dead cold. And modded 2-strokes should not have the problem of stalling out or idling bad....there is either something wrong or the bike just needs a little more tuning to be setup right and run right. doing a compression test will tell you alot about the health of the cylinders even while it is running good.....such as if you come back with extremely high numbers (like above145 psi) per cylinder it would be a good indicater that it is running more compression than stock and the previous owner may have been running race fuel or a race fuel/reg fuel mix. if the numbers are starting to get on the low side (around 100 psi) then it is an indication that there is going to be a rebuild in your near future.

This used to happen to us at work.....trying to take off large boat propellers from tapered shafts can be a real bitch. We used to have to use pullers that basically did the same thing. I know its not a good idea (saying that so i don't have to hear everyone bitching about this) but you can tighten down pretty tight on the puller and LIGHTLY tap on the puller bolt....it will slightyly shock the crank (why its not so great of an idea) and can break the seized flywheel loose. There are ALSO a few other ways...like tightening down on the puller while its tight lightly heat the flywheel.....or what ALWAYS used to work for the really stubborn props.....crank some damn decent force onto it and walk away and come back in the morning. The pulling stress left on it ALL night long will eventually give in and it should pop off.....

do you know what pilot jets are in the carbs? the pilots from stock should have been 25's but since your runnin aftermarket pipes it will require more fuel at idle and upon starting.....so when you jump to aftermarket pipes you should also jump the pilot jets to a 27.5 you should also do a leak down test and a compression test to help in diagnosing. when its running does it seem to rev up slightly on its own? It may be running lean which is a good chance. Its either that or it could be very low on compression....which could be why its taking so many kicks to get her to start... let us know your compression numbers and what your leak-down indicates.....

and i was startin to wonder why loco kept blowin cranks.....bahahahahahahaha

gotta remember though....michigan is one of (if not the only state left) that is still under the "no-fault" insurance. Which means you could get hit by a guy driving a cadillac that suddenly lost all vision and broke both his legs purposely and tried to drive to the hospital on his own....and you still WOULD NOT be able to sure him.....nor would your insurance company. That being said the insurance companies here don't have to worry about losing money because of one of their stupid clients who smashes into you and being sued. So it equals that they can charge a little less...

There are also brackets that are made from aluminum and mount in the holes that the stock air box fit into and mounts it under the seat. My bike came with the 2-1 air filter and the previous owner had cut the back of hte stock air box to still hold the coolant bottle (in the shape of the aluminum aftermarket piece

welcome to the HQ!! We need some more info about your bike to really help you diagnose or give insight as to what your problem could be..... it could be anywhere form too small of a pilot jet to a faulty CDI or bad stator or a lean fuel ratio. Could be tons of crap....so lets hear what your bike has done to it so far! haha

Hey john if you figure out a date that works for you guys for the bull gap run let me know....my buddy and i ride in that area alot and we'd be up for rippin around. it'd be awsome to ride with some outta state HQ memebers

i think i pay either $160 or $180 a year and that covers both my 01 shee and my 04 z400 and the person riding it for medical...

if its got a fresh top end build....it should be pushing around 125 psi in each cylinder....

yeah like larry's gettin at....sounds like your clutch cable is dirty and jammin up with isn't lettin it engage.

looks like you got it going good there.... the crank vent routs up along the wiring to the front of the bike where it T-'s in with the clutch tube and the other end continues up to the front of the bike near the bars...

ya i say call Jeff...he's loaded with seriously good info. Your not going to want a cub....it'll be too much of a hassle trying to control it easily in the woods. The cubs power curve is just too fast to come on with the power to keep you outta the trees haha. a +4mil or a serval is what your gonna want.

haha....ya i got how to do the leakdown test lol.....i was just confused as to why you bolted it back on.....totally forgot that you said your head gasket blew and that's why you had the head off in the first place...lol

its $75 at FAST to have it trued and welded. You can call Jeff and ask him about the cylinders and what he would recommend.....he will tell you his honest opinion. He's a really great guy that stands behind his work and has made many of our bikes lay down some serious power. Www.farmandsandtoys.com

haha your ride midlife.......sorry guys...kinda had a shitty day yesterday and it just kinda twisted me the wrong way haha....jason im sure you didn't mean it the way i took it... and welcome to the site buddy..... got lots and lots of info here for everything about these bikes