Jereme6655

go out and buy yourself a clymers manual for your banshee.....its like gold. it has all the info for repair and step by step instructions on how to perform those actions. As for your overheating issue.....i bet your way lean. If it only has the jets the the pipes came with ( i wouldn't trust those anyways) AND it has a removed snorkel and a K&N filter which means its breathing easier, then chances are real good that its running lean. To find out....you need to pull your carbs off the banshee.....then (1 at a time cause they are different!!!) take the carb bowl off of the carbs.....you will see a hex shape brass colored jet (main jet) which is going to require a 6mm socket to take off. On the end that you see when you pull the bowl off of you will see a number stamped on it (yes it IS there....its jus a bitch to see cause its so small). That is the size of the main jet that you are running.......let us know what it is.... 10:1 odds its like a 240 which is still way too small. As jetting goes.... after all mods you need to at least CHECK your jetting.......most mods require you to re-jet. Also.....as the temperature drops.... there are more air molcules in a certain area (like a cubic foot) meaning that since the air is denser you are now sucking in more air molcules in the same amount of engine RPM...which in turn means you are running lean and have the chance of melting holes in your pistons. so you really need to rejet for colder weather. let us know what main jets are in your carbs and we can help get you close to where you need to be!!! Jereme

another way to distinguish between the two is to look at the outside of the bowls themselves too. The choke bowl has a brass ball on the OUTSIDE of the bowl. The non-choke carb does NOT have the brass ball on it.

i don't like to let my bike sit and idle even after the motors been broken in. i do know that my builder wants me to break my motor in by not letting it idle during break in but to keep blipping the throttle until there is heat in the motor.....then take it for easy accel/decel rides til its fully broke in.

gotcha.....so its a drag motor...haha......i was gonna say SHIT...you wont catch me riding that thing more than 2 blocks from our cottage. But its a little bit different if its a drag motor......not so much when it comes to having to do a rebuild....but definately makes a difference on how far you have to walk back to camp lol

i wanna know why your letting a fresh rebuild sit for 10 minutes idling when your not supposed to let them idle during break-in.....

you run a motor that dropped from 6psi to 2psi? so you run your motors with a 4psi pressure drop in 6 minutes? wow.......no offense but i don't wanna trust that...hahaha. mine dropped from 6.5psi down to 5.5 psi in the 6 minute period. i've heard that you can lose up to 2psi in 6 minutes...but i don't wanna even lose that.

called a crows-foot wrench.....or you can just squeek a short socket on there with a 3" extension hahaha

haha...yea i understood you were sayin it was fine. what i meant by more well known was that youve been on the hq for awhile and have been around these bikes longer than i have......so someone with more experience than me hahaha

thanks phelps.......was hopin someone like a more well known hq member would stick there dick out and answer....hahahaha thanks man...

so i just finished assembling my motor after having Jeff at FAST weld my crank and had him do a play/dune port on my cylinders after he bored and honed em out for a rebuild. First time i've ever split the cases on a banshee and things seemed to go pretty smooth and just wanted to make sure on what other people thought about my leakdown numbers.... pumped it to 6psi and let it sit for 6 minutes and it dropped 1 psi in the time period..... guess im just curious if these are decent numbers...

greeeeeat....now i gotta watch my back for zilla....bahahahahahhahaha if i dont get them zilla ill let you know and see if ion would throw you up in line after me

what kind of silencers? haha...ionroller and i are lookin for sets of turbine core (spark arrested) for our bikes...

yea id possibly be interested........where are you at? keep me updated cause ive been kinda seraching around for Turbines for a bit....

like mentioned above.....try gutting your gas cap. Jeff at FAST just had me do that just to be safe after i got my cylinders back from him. There's 3 screws on the inside and you can just take the screws out and lose EVERYTHING that comes out....and you dont have to put any of the crap back on.....Jeff said he wanted me to gut it so that you could see from one side to the other side. This might clear up your problem......if it doesn't totally hellp then it might be time for a pengel also....

you just gotta contact a site sponsor from the forum here (there's a list on the forum with their numbers and contact info) and after you talk to a few of them and figure out what sponsor you want to go with you just diassemble your top end and you shi them just the cylinders (unless you and the bulider talked about sending more of your motor for different work) its literally as easy as taking your cylinders and putting them into a carboard box (packed well in foam or something to keep them from being broken) and sending them to the sponsors address and they will take care of you.

in michigan here yes. the best thing to do is to get your porting done through a site sponsor like FAST.....Jeff will take damn good care of you and he can help you when it comes to choosing a dome size for what octane gas to run. alot of it has to do with elevation which is why you will see some people runnin 93 octane with 19 cc domes (theyr'e usually way the hell up in the mountains) or people runnin 21cc domes here in michigan on race gas or a race/pump gas mix.

yes you will see a power rise from raising the pressure of your cylinders (lowering the dome size). this will also force you to run race fuel as crusty said. but like he also warned.....you should do a few things to help keep your bike together. like gettin the crank welded to keep it from seperating from added power. but its not the race fuel that makes it run stronger....its raised compression.

race fuel (high octane fuel) doesn't add power.....it can actually hamper power. This is because high octane fuel actually burns SLOWER than lower octane fuels. however people use race fuel in banshee's that have high combustion pressures because once you pass into high pressure levels low octane fuel actually becomes unstable and will pre-ignite or "detonate" early. This will actually hammer the force against a piston that is still moving upward and will begin to hurt your motor. it can lead to broken pistons to moved metal on the pison and head (looks like a midget with a hacksaw went at your shit). When detonation happens is when you NEED to step up to a higher octane fuel. it does not add power. its the raised compression (lowered dome size) that up the pressure causing a rise in power...

cock-kicker! cock-kicker! cock-kicker! haha.... X2 with wacko......you just lined up and drop-kicked us....thanks for the warning...

what....none of you guys have teh specialty clicker-style elbow? shit mines good for any torque i need! haha but the last time i tried to torque over 200lbs it took a lot of grunting and groaning...and a shart to get the final click.....

you MIGHT be able to get like $25-30 for them. fact is since we're all slowly going to Noss style cool heads that everyone has one layin around. and if you get a cut head from a site sponsor you wind up with your old stock head layin around too lol. but it is decent insurance to have one floatin around in case your on a ride and someone has a problem....

damn you zilla! That's where i was goin with it....BAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....no worries. I need to track down some spark-arrested turbines cause i have the powercore 2's also.... kinda hard to make a silver lake trip if you can't get through the gate...

what kind of silencers are they? hey ion your sig says you got turbine core silencers.....what kind of silenecers are you lookin for?

wow.....$75 for a stock head.....geez. hell i can get a machines .030 stock head from a site sponsor for like $60

ohh forgot to add in that if you decide to drop in a +4mil crank then you will have to run the wiseco 795 series pistons to compensate for the offset of the wrist pin