Jereme6655

yea i know eastpointe borders detroit..... i live in fraser. Just boggles my mind how shit is starting to come farther and farther up. And yea....eastpointe has been gettin WAY scarier lol

good to hear your gettin your cases back dajogejr......that REALLY sucks about your buddies car. Shit-hole detroit.....shit im kinda amazed it got jacked from that far north....but i guess crime is happening farther and farther north around here....

try and replace to braided lines.....when lines get REALLY old they can actually weaken and balloon when you squeeze hard....so you don't get all the pressure in calipers....you'll loose pressure in the big bulge in the break line...

even if he is too cheap to rebuild anything (if it even needs it) in the bottom end.....at least pull hte cases apart and inspect it for pieces of the piston......i bet you find some. like i said....it'll do the cha-cha tap dance all over your shit. i understand the fact of yoru dad not wanting to pay.....but itll only cost you like $10 for a tube of yamabond to reseal the cases........haha

perfect photo tedd1......can't really get much clearer than that haha

n2o is completely right. your gonna need to split the cases no matter what. IF the piston did come up and kiss the piston then you probably blew a crank bearing and that's why it made love to your spark plug. and if your piston is broken then your going to have to pull your cases apart anyways to get ALL of the pieces out of the motor. Even though you think that you got it all out of the exhaust.....you could be missing a tiny little piece that's made its way into your cases......that bad boy gets up inside again and its doin the cha-cha dance all over your NEW pistons.

huh?

What the shit.......but why?

well tell your dad to look at it this way....those $60 pistons are probably so cheap because they are cast....cast pistons aren't the greatest and when they let go they tend to REALLY mess things up inside. Now if you were to get a set of 513 Wiseco pro-lite FORGED pistons...they will be FAR superior to the cast. They will hold up to extra mods (current OR future) and they will take a serious beating and continue to run hard. I think Jeff at FAST can get them for you for around $180 which inclues the normal stuff (piston/wrist pin/Cir-clips). Yes i know its $60 more than you can get cast pistons. But alot of us on here have seen what happens when you run no name pistons.....ALOT of the times it doesn't turn out good. But you could save yourself alot of heart-ache and stress by payin out the extra $60.......think of it as a small insurance policy.

just make sure your dad understands that you get what you pay for when you take the cheap way out. That would be why one of Jeff's sayings is "you can go broke trying to save money" If you cheap out now....its WILL cost you more to go back replace the shit you put in it cause it was a good price than it would to just put in the quality stuff the first time.

ok i can understand the being on a budget thing. But there are a few things that you should do to insure that your not gonna have problems again. Make sure it gets checked out at a reputable machine shop....if they meausre it and say its outta spec then its gotta get bored. But make sure they know to chamfer the ports so it doesn't break the ring. And order pirstons from Jeff at FAST or a site sponsor.....believe it or not they can get you the wiseco pistons (pro-lites) for cheap....probably cheaper than you can find anywhere else. And the pro-lites are ALOT more durable than the rest of the pistons out tehre.....they can take a serious beating.

if your going to run ATF in your tranny then you need to make sure its ATF Type F. The Type F doesn't have the friction modifiers that the new ATF fluids use......if you use the other types of ATF the modifiers will leach into your clutch fibers and then start slipping bad. Once that happens its time for a new set of clutch fibers as you cant get the modifiers out of them.

Welcome to the HQ!!! Since you said the skirt is shattered then there is only one real course of action....your gonna need to split the cases to ensure that no pieces of the piston skirt made its way down into the cases. And while your in there....you might want to see about sending your crank out to a site sponsor and having them true and weld your crank to help prevent any damage that can occur from modding the motor. Also have your cylinders checked out for scoring or wear marks and ring lips from the damage.....and take them to a shop to have them checked for being out of round. that way you will know if you need to have the cylidners bored/honed. if you do then you shoudl also send those out to our site sponsors....they are all awsome guys to work with and will do an awsome job on your juggs. I send my stuff to Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing and had him recently port my cylinders......seeing that your motors going to be apart you may want to think about having some engine work done.....as you wont have to disassemble the motor a second time when your itchin for more power....

the search button....

most aftermarket pipes require more fuel on the low end so you need to throw at least a 27.5 pilot jet in there. and jetting on a 2stroke isn't to make more power....its to supply it with enough fuel/oil mix to keep the motor from leaning out and melting the pistons...

send your stuff to a site sponsor.....i trust Jeff at FAST for all my stuff. Our site sponsors can get you a top end rebuild cheaper than you can usually get it anywhere else. plus these guys eat sleep and live banshee's.....so there's no question as to whether they are good at what they do or not...

i cant remember who it is that makes them.....i do know the guys a really reputable guy.....but alot of the site sponsors carry them now. i know for sure Jeff at FAST carries them.

if you do a search on the serval cylinders they are a new cylinder that is out.....its a mono-block cylinder (not seperated jugs) but they are made in a way so they actually loook like seperate cylinders. There's pictures floating around on here of them. They were originally setup to be more of a stock look sleeper style motor. only these things dont sleep. i believe they have intakes like a cheetah cub??? I know people were saying they were supposedly able to pull almost 80 hp out of them.

ill give you $50-$75 for each elka..... haha....but okay in all serious-ness.....call or pm matt. He rebuilds our atv shocks on here and he's a pimp about it. From the sounds of it you will just need to have your shocks rebuilt/revalved for your specific riding and your weight. I bet after you get them back you'll be in love.

okay....since your new i wont bash you about using the search button haha. a plug chop is to find out if your running too lean or running too rich. If you run too lean you can and will melt your pistons and cause catostrophic failure in your motor. if you run too rich you will foul out your plugs and you will be lacking total performance. To do a plug chop you want to warm your motor up on the plugs you currently have in the bike. Then shut the bike off and put in BRAND NEW plugs. Fire it up and ride it wide open throttle all the way thru 6th gear....when you hit top speed in 6th...pull the clutch in and shut the motor off and coast to a stop. remove new plugs and put in the old plugs again. then go home and cut the threads off of the new plugs.......at the BASE of the white porcelan insolator you want to see a light brown ring about 2mm tall (should be like a milk chocllate color or the color of a light cardboard box). if its lighter then you are running lean.....if its darker then you are running rich.

that is getting pretty low.....might be a good idea just to pull the head....and also it is good to look for ring-ridges. if its got some ring ridges starting then its time to rebuild!

every 2stroke motor is a little different. its not like a 4stroke that you can just look at a chart and be close and that's pretty good. its more of a test and tune then more test and tune.....to dial in a 2stroke.... by far the best thing to do is to do a plug chop on it.

larry has a good question. Was it freshly bored? looking at the port on the upper right side of your picture it looks like there are chunks taken out of your cylinder. It does look like your ring may have snagged the middle port and folded itself a little and then wore that pattern into your cylinder. If this was a fresh bore who assembled it? it does look like the chamfer may be a little shady...

almost all aftermarket pipes for the banshee's need a 27.5 pilot jet....they require more fuel for low end....so basically if your still runnin the stock pilot then your running lean on your low end. bump those pilots to the 27.5 that you ordered and your gonna notice a difference

ahhh....now i understand why your doing your tests with a little oil in the cylinders....your talking doing the test AFTER youve pulled the carbs and the reeds. I always do compression tests while the engine is still fully assembled while its in running condition (or WAS running condition just can't run anymore). correct.... a dry cylinder wont give you a totally accurate reading. but if the carbs are still on and functioning correctly then you will be getting a fuel/oil mix into the cylinders while your checkin the compression.