Jereme6655

was your plastic one the same shape as the billet ones?

i was runnin 290 with a 2-1 air filter FMF fatties and +4 timing at 1500feet. i would say you should be around a 270 at 2000. BUT Fatties also need to have the pilot jet jumped up from the stock 25 to a 27.5 so that it doesn't run itself lean on the low end.

looks like when you mount up your silencers that its going to pull your pipe up wards more and may clear a little then. when you put that in-line temp guage in did you cut out any of the coolant tube or no?

i THINK its supposed to be offset at a 60* pattern. so like the first one goes in and the second one goes in 60* from that. The third one goes in 60* offset from second.......so on and so on.

if they are stock carbs that are on the bike....then there should be a black tube that goes between the carbs. If its there then that could be the problem with your bike. They need to be balanced and the tube causes one of the carbs to not be choked when your missing that tube.

everyone is got their own preference on what brand to run and what mix ratio.......if you use the search button in the upper right corner you'll come up with hundreds of posts about it. safe bet is USUALLY between 32-40:1 although there are some people that will run 50:1 on synthetic i run amsoil at 32:1

yea.....about what that guy said.......what the hell is he doing about carbs? if im reading that correct then i think that your saying he want to replace them? why...theyre fine...haha. just cause it may have snagged a ring doesn't mean you need to change carbs lol. like was mentined earlier....you could send out your motor to a sponsor and get it fully rebuilt and heavily modded for that price.....

welcome to the hq nutz...... first thing first.....we need some info on your bike. Does it have pipes or an aftermarket exhaust on it? Did you just get it or have you had it since new so you know exactly what's been done to it? It sounds like your having a fuel issue.....but without more info we can't be sure. Was this a problem that just happened recently or has it always been this way?

just the nature of the beast when it comes to the stock mikuni carbs that come on the banshee.....they are known for sticking when you ride them through water...

okay....the screw at the bottom of the carb bowl is a drain....you want that screwed in. unless you want gas flowing out while your bike is running or just sitting there. i THINK you may need to jump up your pilot to a 27.5......i do know the 25 is a stock pilot and aftermarket pipes require a larger pilot jet. However im not 100% sure about it since your so freakin high up in the stratosphere....geez...

what sized pilot jets do you have in there? with any aftermarket pipes you should be running a larger pilot jet size. and all i gotta say is DAMN your ridin WAY the hell up there in the altitude.....could have a very big thing....

describe why your bike seems to be running like shit? as in what symptoms does it have?

The site sponsors that your hearing about on here are guy who supply us with parts and services because they ARE the gods of banshee's. there's not alot of other people that have the knowledge these guys hold in their heads. Since you've got a few things already bolted onto your bike....you should call a site sponsor and ask them what they believe would give you the best bang for the buck now. The sponsor that i used for my motor is Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing (Farmandsandtoys.com) He's a great guy to deal with and will help you select what you need by how you want your bike to run...

from the photobook picture it looks like your showing us the underside of the frame.....the vin # (if its on the frame) is going to be located on the outside of the frame just underneath where the flywheel is. its located so while the quad is on all 4 wheels you can squat down and read the vin # without a problem. its almost located in a spot where if you turned your left foot towards the frame while your downshifting you'll be rubbing your toes across it haha

you can disable the TORS by unplugging it.....its the little black box that's under the gas tank on the left side.

jeez GY......is that 4 cranks that i see in teh back ground?!?

ive seen on here (just recently) of a guy that did a DC conversion for his bike.....he made a battery box that went under his seat. he had to cut out that TINY little area to store your factory tool kit....but its a hell of alot bigger.....fits a motorcycle battery.

go to a hardware store and go to the spray paint section. Then look for the Hi-temp black BBQ paint. my buddy and i used this on his FMF Fatties because his pipers were seriously in the hurt-locker when it came to looks. The paints been on there for 2 years now and still looks good....we just had to scuff them up a bit with sandpapers.

yea there's no rack that your going to find for a front rack on a banshee. its not a real demanded item....so your going to have to make your own. It just takes some thought and trial and error before you find the exact thing that works great for you. Hell i made myself a container to carry enough premix oil to mis up almost a whole gas tank worth of fuel.

if its a bad enough stuck float it will flood your motor and keep it from firing right. pull those carbs off and take the bowls off (one at a time cause they ARE different) and then clean the hell outta them.

woulda been funnier to see the cops zappin 'em as hes yellin "dont taze me bro!!!"

ive put together a banshee motor and a race built honda 125 with cometic gaskets....never had a problem with them. i also have used the namura gasket kit.....sealed up fine and is holding good. Only thing i don't like is some of the gasket sets don't come with a water-pump gasket

braided lines will help you with the whole bulging problem.... it'll help keep em constricted longer.....although after 11 years even the braided may need replacing hahah

Your right.....Jeff at FAST is still around....and his works still kickin ass around the world. Good to have you back man......as far as Nevada area....i have no clue of any builders. Honestly i'd probably only trust one of the sponsors to do our motors......unless i meet the dude doin it, but then im still gonna grill him to make sure he chamfers ports and what-not.

the clymers manual is REALLY helpful....worth its weight in gold when it comes to owning and wrenching on a banshee. They are like $25-30. Or since i know your on a budget then you can even go to the library and check it out for free. It has TONS of great info including the step-by-step disassembly and reassembly and how to check everything. You may be able to find some step by step written out tips on here if you try the search button. let us know how it all goes