Jereme6655

on the newer bikes (such as an 03) there was also a parking break switch built into the system.....when it is activated (by you or by a electrical fault) it will clip the ignition not allowing the motor to rev.

its really easy to swap out the jets on the carbs........pull the carbs off and flip them upside down and remove the carb bowl from the bottom (4 screws) when you take the bowl off you will see the MAIN JET sitting there starin you in the face. its a 6mm hex head jet.....you'll need to jump the size of that one immediately for the pipes. just below the main jet is a small hole......if you look down in there you will see the very small head of the pilot jet (takes a pretty small screw driver to get his ass out). the problem with 2 strokes is that no two motors are the same and require the same jetting. 4-stroke jetting is easy....you look at the chart and put the right sized main jet in for the application and forget about it. However our process is a little harder. You MUST do a plug chop after jumping your jetting for the pipes. Its not that hard... lol To do a plug chop..... Fire up your bike on the spark plugs it currently has in it and let the bike fully warm up. Then shut the bike down and pull the plugs out and put in 2 BRAND NEW plugs. When you fire the bike up you will then need to run the bike hard....1-6th gear WOT......as soon as you hit the top end in 6th pull the clutch in and shut the motor down and coast to a stop. Then pull out the test plugs and put your old plugs back in......ride back to your place and cute the threads all the way off of your test plugs and look at the carbon ring at the bottom of the white porcelian. It should be a light milk choclate color thats approx 2mm tall.......if its darker brown then your running slightly rich....and if its slightly whiter then you are running slightly lean. The object here is to NOT run your bike too lean as it will melt holes in your pistons....

400ex hubs blaster axle

could have been a number of things.....could have been a carb intake that cracked from a wheelie and it was semi sealed and you just bumped it and it opened it up. or it could be a spark plug that wasnt tightened down correctly.....hell it could be a number of things. Best thing to do is to do a leakdown test on the motor and spray it down with soapy water....you'll see if its leaking...guarenteed. And if its reving USUALLY that's due to the fuel mix leaning out.....hell it could have had some dirt in the tank that made it past the sock and into the carb plugging it up. If it wont shut off when you turn the ignition off and the kill switch off then quickly grab at the spark plug wires....if you can get those off and the bike stays running then your problem has just moved away from electrical (for the not shutting off) to a detonation situation......it's runnin so hot inside that its not needing spark to ignite itself anymore.....its now become a self sustaining robot that's out to really jack up your wallet..... the mikuni carbs are known for sticking when they get run through water.....you may want to see if the guy that tore it apart happened to clean it and then OIL them before he reassembled them...

what year is your bike? after a specific year (i think 02??) they started putting brake lights on the rear as opposed to just running lights. Makes a little more wiring to be searched...

on the back of the motor kinda low (in between the motor mounts) there is a plastic nipple that should have a tube on it to vent the cases.....it supposed to go all the way up and connect to a T-fitting just above your cylinders (the other side goes to your clutch cover and the 3rd tube goes up near the bars) i bet your is either real short or came loose...

If it were my bike i would just slowly rotate the motor around by hand to make sure its still rotating fine for peace of mind before i fired it. letting it sit in there shouldn't be an issue...it should disapate over time as you ride. If you REALLY want to know then you could actually just pull off your left side cylinder and use a flashlight and look down into your cases to see if you can see anything.....although i doubt you will find much at all.

Yup....like windycityjohn said....your detonating. The constant hammering of the sparkplug and the cylinder dome is jarring the spark plug loose. You can keep riding it if you want.....but i guarentee you that you will wind up doing a full rebuild on a totally blown-up motor REAL soon if you do. Id either call the previous owner or do a compression check and then post up your findings on the HQ here and we'll help you get her figured out!

not grease! when lubing tranny parts you should be using the fluid that your going to be running for assembly (such as ATF Type F). When dealing with your clutch you need to soak it in the same fluid that you're gonna be running because the clutch pack will actually expand a little when its wet. When your assembling your motor there's 2 choices. The first choice you don't hear about alot anymore and that's to use an actual assembly lube. Its specially designed and it will not harm anything in your motor. The second choice is to use whatever oil that your going to be running in your motor as an assembly lube. You don't want to just use straight grease.....unless your repacking seals lol. READ the clymers manual....it will tell you where to apply the lube for assembly and it will also give you suggestions on what to use. Also make sure you have EVERYTHING before you start. If you read the chapter first that your going to do on a certain day then you'll know in advance what parts you need so you don't get stuck in the middle of putting your cases back together or whatever.

hey longrod....is this your first banshee?

i wonder if he had clearance issues with the carbs while he was trying to install them and that was his ghetto way of making them fit better. The only way that you can find out about your crank is to split the cases.....it sucks. To tell if your head is milled you can do a compression test.......IF its still on a decent top-end it should show you weather its a higher compression indicating that its a milled head. But the sure fire way would be to pull it and measure it. since you've got all the questions....you may need to just rip the motor down and see whats goin on inside.....plus it'll give you peace of mind as to whats been done.

depends on what your doing with the bike.....trail riding or dune shooting? And how much power do you want? The Rudy i bet is maxxed out as far as it can go on power........but the serval comes with a ton of power BUT it can still be ported so that you can run even harder!

you also have to remember he said he wanted a top end rebuild done too.....which is gonna cost you about $180 for the pistons and about $90 to bore and hone it and then about $25-30 for a gasket set!

yea its a new kit that includes the carb toppers and new cables. Just make sure you unplug the TORS brain-box that is under the gas tank on the left side of the frame......

just take your time and do some reading before you try and jump in there and try and assemble it. also do a leakdown test before you go firing it up and melting down your motor...

so is there any modifications done to your bike? it almost sounds like you may be having a problem like if you have a set of aftermarket performance pipes on it but have not changed the pilot jet size....

the cr500? shit....you gotta be a real man to kick that bastard over.... and you need a hell of a leg brace and ankle splint. cause if you get the kick back from that beast.....your gonna feel like you've got a broken ass leg haha.

haha...okay zx10.....alot better mood now. yea ive seen them idle fine with the stock pilot and FMF's.....but as soon as you start to throttle up it'll usually kill one cylinder until you get the RPMs up a little higher...then that other pipe will fire again and itll run hard. its runnin lean.....i ran through this exact same thign on my bike......just about ripped my hair out cause of the lack of performance/bog issue and the misfire... but when i found out what it was i wanted to cry cause it was like a $6 fix and the thing screamed after that...

first things first......look at your carbs....if theyr'e stock carbs there should be a little black tube that goes between the carbs that. That's your cross-over tube and your choke circuit in your carbs wont work correctly unless you got it in place. And don't run your bike like that!!! The reason that your bike wouldn't shut off is because your motor was detonating. And it was detonating so bad that it created enough heat inside the cylinder to self ignite the fuel. That's why it wouldn't shut off when you turned the ignition off. It usually happens if your running your motor lean......and since you said it was reving itself up at idle then that would explain why. You have an air-leak somewhere in your motor. My advice would be to build a leakdown tester (dont' worry itll only cost like $10 and its a lifetime tool you'll need for the banshee) and do a test on it....it'll show you where your air leak is when you spray soapy water on it....

also before you rip the head off......build yourself a leakdown tester and check to see if your losing pressure.......its a SURE way to find if you have a leak and have leaned out your motor.

okay.....first....kill switch and key OFF.......then...reach down and unclip your fanny pack and leave that at home. You won't be needing it. From here on out its time to get dirty and your fanny pack isn't meant for that. But in all seriousness.........do a compression test with your key off and holding your throttle wide open.....and kick until the needle stops raising on the guage. Then report back here.....anythign under 110 is where i would make the cut off and do a rebuild. If its above 110 then your next action would be to pull your carbs off and clean the hell outta them. it sounds like the problem your having is that your floats are slightly gummed up and aren't dropping when they need to......so your breath is just pushin them up real quick and breakin them free for a little bit. Then kick it......doesn't have to be super hard....but don't pussy-foot the thing......its a banshee....it'll handle it.

zx10.......im really straining to be nice right now...haha....so sorry if i come off as a prick. Fastbanshee8 already GAVE you the answer to your problem! Let me guess....you put the pipes on and after you switched back the slides in the carbs it will BARELY run on 2 cylinders while your standing there trying to keep it idling......but as soon as you get on the throttle the left pipe (usually left one) starts cutting out and wont fire but as soon as you get into the powerband the pipe comes to life and your off and screamin right? ITS THE PILOT JET. Get yourself a 27.5 pilot and it'll clear all the problems up.....hell it'll be a new damn bike as soon as you put them in. Sorry if i get a little rough about it.......just gets frustrating when you see the answer and it either gets ignored or people try and fix something that's related to the real problem.....creating a different problem.

welcome to the HQ! sorry to say it but i have a couple of things that come to mind that could be a problem.....none of them are good. but we need some more info......was this JUST a guts swap? or did you have a top end rebuild done also? 1st. you said it had a bog at the low end. Is the crossover tube between the carbs in place? its a little black tube that goes between the carbs to allow the choke to function correctly. 2nd. You said that it bogged at low but ran hard up at the top.....that makes me think that it was running the clyinders lean. And when you lean out a 2-stroke you do serious damage to it. Im leaning more towards it leaning itself out (due to either a bad carb jetting or even a air leak in a seal somewhere). Since you said it slowly started to take more and mroe kicks to get it to fire up makes me think that it was wearing hard on those cylinders. And the worse part is that since it died while you were on it (shouldn't have been riding it with a problem like that) makes me think that you cooked the pistons........sorry bud but its time to pull the head off of the clylinders and take a look down inside.

right next to the search box that your typing your stuff in you have to make sure that it says "forum" and not "this thread"

haha.....nice catch snop! i totally didn't even catch that.....snop is right....you want the guage between the head and the radiator....where the coolant comes straight outta the motor THEN to your guage. The way you have it set up its going to be telling you the temperature of the cooled down collant coming OUT of the radiator.....not the important heat number which is how hot the coolant is coming OUT of the engine block.