Jereme6655

well if your fuel was shut off....then it shouldn't leak at all. Are you sure its fuel? if it is then take your sparkplugs out and slowly turn the motor over and see if you get fuel spraying out the plug holes..........it almost sounds as if your floats got stuck open and for some reason your fuel wasn't off and it filled your pipes....

hey.....when you glass bead them...do you have to have the mating surfaces remachined? i always wondered if blasting cases would cause issues with sealing or anything

its done just how it sounds.....they are screws that are made with carbide heads on them so they don't wear down as quick and they literally just screw right into your knobs on your tires with either a flathead or a 1/4" socket...

So your gonna run a ported 392 for a pit-bike? ehh boy.... okay lets run your list real quick... dont go with the athena....go with a site sponsor and they will get a feel for what you want and advise you on what to get.....id suggest a 4mill or even a 4mill serval to run 34mm carbs....yes you will be needing bigger intakes... reed spacers are a waste unless you need to extend your carbs out a little farther for clearance issues......they're just another spot to leak air The twist grips are nice....however alot of people have problems with them in trails.....mostly because when you catch whoops or are making turns quads wont lean like dirtbikes...so your wrist is locked when your coming into the turn with the juice applied.....then you can't uncock your wrist quick enough to cut the power before you tree your banshee. its really all just preference....but i don't like it. avoid most trinity stuff.....there's no reason to purposely give your bike an STD how about some pod filters to get this thing to breathe a little better and some jets cause your definatley gonna need to up the jetting alot. since your gonna be adding power like this......id suggest getting your crank welded and trued. If you get a 4mil more than likely it will come welded....it should state that when you purchase one..... my suggestion for port work is to send your stuff out to Jeff at F.A.S.T. he's a really great guy (as are all of our sponsors here on the HQ) and does some amazing work. And since your gonna have some down time if your gonna get the port work done....then split your cases and get that crank pin welded and at the same time you can do some trans mods inside....

neutral has always been hard to find on a banshee.....its just the nature of the beast on the stock trans. and you may want to think twice about using lighter duty springs in your clutch.....the banshees powerband will more than likely break your clutch loose if your runnin lighter springs than stock....especially if it has any power mods...

i was even thinkin like ridin to class when its spring......cool day runnin through the woods and having the fresh air in your helmet......except for your non-banshee buddies....they got 2-stroke smoke in theirs...haha

you gotta describe this "slip" that your having a little better. When does it happen.....how long does it go (or do you back off of it) is there a funny sound. What i think your trying to ask is this..... "what does it mean when im riding and the motor begins to rev up without moving forward any harder while ive got the clutch let all the way out" If that's what your asking then yes....your clutch is slipping and it needs replacement. I suggest the clutch setup from Jeff at F.A.S.T. as alot of people on here say it holds up awsome.

god that sounds awsome....i wish i lived somewhere that i could go out a little early and fire up my bike and rip it to school....

take it out riding again only make sure this time its a dry place and see if it does the same thing......then if you can.....find yourself somewhere semi-wet and try it there too and see if that's where your running into the problem. Like i said before......mikuni carbs are nutorious for binding up slightly when you run run em in wet conditions...

its either a stuck float or the needle isn't seeting like john said......or it could also be a mis-adjusted float that is causing your over-fill problem

when you went riding at this place did you ever wind up running through or splashing up a little bit of water? The stock mikuni carbs are nutorious for sticking when you run them through water...

straight from a site sponsor on here.......he says that you should start it and run the motor for 10-15 minutes and then shut it down all while blipping the throttle so that it does not sit and idle at the same RPM. Then let the bike cool completely down. Then restart it and let it build up some heat (while still doing the throttle blip) and then ride it 1-3rd gear.....going easy on it and not getting into the throttle hard for more than 2-3 second.........also do not stay at the same speed....you need to keep the rpms varying. Do this for 10-15 minutes then let the bike cool down again. Continue doing the heat cycles this way until you burn 3/4 of a tank. Then do your plug chops and if your getting is good then your fully broke in and ready to rock!

yea sounds like your runnin really lean. Did you do a leakdown test on the motor before you started it? might have an air leak...

yes...you definately need to pull the jets completely out of the carbs and then be cleaned...

is this a new build or a new never started before bike?

wait wait wait.....your free revving it? as in revving it with no load? im pretty sure that's a big no no...

its a lean condition if your bike will not shut off.......its because your combustion temperature is WAY too high and the gasoline is getting hot enough that its self igniting the gas that's being introduced to your cylinders. You need to do a leak-down test and recheck your carb float heights.... and on the more modified bikes you CAN get it to stall by dropping the clutch in gear....you just need to do it upper end.....like near 5th gear and 6th gear haha

you said it would miss on the right? try and switch the plug caps to see if the problem changes sides....it'll limit out if its an electrical problem or a carb/mechanical problem...

alot better......but id still pull that trinity sticker off the side.......its like a disease...

you should do a leak down test.....it will let you know if your having problems with an air leak. When you start it and it starts to rev up on its own its a sign of the motor being leaned out on the fule/air mix. I bet if you let it start to slightly rev up and you leaned over and pulled the choke out a litle bit i bet you that it slows your motor down.....its cause it WAS starving for fuel and now your giving it all it needs

Correct.....your old cylinders were ported for a stock stroke crank and if you were to go with a stroker crank you'd be seriously affecting the timing. With new cylinders on there and a 115 Long Rod crankshaft you will need to either run a spacer plate to make your stock port timing work correctly or you will need to get the new cylinders ported for the stroker crank along with different dones for both applications. You will also need to run a different piston.........it will need to be a 795 series wiseco piston to compinsate for a different stoke length

yup....the 400ex hubs are the same size...

bad jetting can definately melt holes in your pistons in with a quickness...

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx put in your bikes year and then look at the clutch exploded view......its #29

cant be a nut inside the case.....the bolts thread into the case itself which are tapped......its kinda like a flat spoon lookin bracket that just gets bolted over top of the clutch actuator to hold the actuator pushed down against the cases.