Jereme6655

not a bad bike......id take a look at that air filter though......at least by the looks of those carbs. Looks like they sucked in ALOT of dirt.......not too helpful to compression...

im hoping that....when you say you put 65mm pistons in.....you had the cylinders bored to the correct size right? Did you have it bored for the piston and THEN went and bought pistons after? This is all pertinent information to solving the issues you have....

it increases your bikes low end performance.........after +4 timing, your running the risk of causing detonation in your motor and also losing a slight bit of top end performance as well.

hang on......there are some things about these quads that someone has apparently forgotten to tell you or purposely didn't tell you when you bought this quad. These bikes are not for the cheap, or for the frightfully frugal.......these bikes require maintenance, and parts, and tinkering......they will gobble money. If your dad if freaking out about you going to the dealer to buy jets.......then you may have problems. Another question......how old are you? Do you have a job or is he payin for your quad and whatnot.....only asking cause its gonna take a decent about of money to continue to run one of these quads. On another note....go pick yourself up a clymers manual. And STOP going to the dealer. They are a excessively massive rip-off. Not to mention, more than one person on here has had them "work" on their bike just to mangle it and wind up causing an issue which leads to catastrophic damage. Just do your research on here. I did. We all did and have learned MASSIVE amounts of info from some really smart people. Then learn about our sponsors. You'll save money and these guys eat sleep and live banshees. Prime example about dealers........dealer here wants $27 for a head gasket for the banshee. Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing (farmandsandtoys.com) sells them for $15 or an entire top end gasket kit for $35. Or the head itself.....the dealer wants $207 for a STOCK head.........Jeff sells a coolhead style head that allows you to interchange domes to up compression for power, and its only $190. So just get your bearings straight about whether tis worth it to you to spend the money in this sport. And get your dad a quad. And stay out of the DEALER.

he's not saying its leaking into the pipe.....he said its leaking ONTO the pipe......so im taking it he has a removed over flow bottle and the hose from his radiator is running down the front downtube of his frame to just above a pipe. Like said.....your jetting is wrong. You need to be in the 280 range with a 27.5 main jet for the stock carbs. also make sure your putting your carbs back together correctly and clean. report back.

Hey Jacowils......to be honest.....being on the stock porting....with the pods, head and fatties i'd bet its going to be around a 290 for summer here. That being said....a lot of the builders here will tell you that its roughly every 20* that will require a jetting change. So say if your going from being jetted for 80* and suddenly decide to ride and its 40* out........it should require approximately 2 mains larger to compensate for the cold air. With the boysen reeds, id suggest probably jumping up to a 27.5 pilot. But with your mains.....you wont need a larger than a 320......hell im running a 330 with fmf fatties, k&n pods, 20cc domes, vf 2 reeds, and a dune/play port from FAST. Where are you at here in Michigan?

oh boy.....the "cases" that he is talking about are the engine cases......as in these are built in 2 piece engine blocks and then sealed between them and bolted together.

your jets. FFS......change your jets......not to mention they were already small, but now its starting to get colder out (depending where you are) Im telling you......shut it down and get on the jetting thing....at least get in the ball park......or your going to lock your motor up.

with no filters you also leaned it out and ran it hard........she's gotta be toast. I bet it was a starting to seize up when it quit. and your plugs should not be "light brown" if you've been running on them for a bit. They should only be light brown while during a plug chop.

your motor hates you. if you don't stop riding it and learn how to jet the hell out of that thing i GUARENTEE you will be rebuilding that bike all over again. It doesn't take much....especially when your doing a wide open run, if they're jetted lean....and a decent amount like yours, they'll melt down in minutes.

and where and when you racin on the ice tricked? Wouldn't mind comin and checkin out a ice race.........as long as the snow up north isn't plentiful.....

/\ plus new water pump timing plate case saver You MAY be able build the motor correctly for 1500. But.....that is if your being a real thrifty buyer and waiting for the right deal. Just remember though....when buying a 4mil set of jugs.......you can run a 4mil crank with stock cylinders (obviously you need a different head to clear the extra stroke length)....however it will not run great. It will be like putting a v-8 into a geo metro and then pulling 4 spark plugs and driving it. So.....if you get a 4 mil crank......try and find either a set of pre-ported cylinders, or get a nice set of stock cylinders and have them ported.

what jets are in it? You asked the "shop" what they put in it correct? I bet either you have an air leak, a too small of a pilot jet, or your not telling us that it got extremely cold since you had your bike taken to a shop and that is the reason.

ill be a test subject on Ti internals! hahaha All said aside.....it sounds like it would be a good project to undertake.......obviously only if it is done on downtime at your own cost (had to throw that in there to avoid a shit storm....) Please....keep us informed with updates and photos of this project going on....perfect way to keep things new and fresh to enlighten the minds to keep these older technology on the updated side of things.

I have the a VERY similar setup to what your wanting to build.....only real difference would be with me running 20cc domes as opposed to 21cc domes like you. YOU WILL LIKE IT ALOT. When I say its a total different beast.....it really is a totally different beast. just make sure you get the crank welded.....I think its about $65 to have the work done.....which is serious peace of mind considering if you wipe out a crank and have to replace it you're talking at least $300 if you find a deal and it didn't hurt anything else. I wont lie.....after you get it ported....its not going to be something your just willing to pass off to a friend to give it a lap and see what he thinks.......it will make you have to say "no" to the majority of friends. Not just cause it may be too much for them.....but because it will and can get them hurt in a hurry. But if you run really tight trails then you're gonna be more interested in the trail port......if you run roads or fire roads or wide open trails......dune/play port from Jeff at FAST all the way.

you can have the head rechambered and decked to give you more compression. Either way, YES you can get past all them with a stock stroke bike. I am running a stock stroke, dune/play port by F.A.S.T. Racing (one of our great sponsors), 20cc domes, vf2 reeds, fmf fatties, k&n pods, and +4 timing on 91 octane. It will beat a lot of stuff......and its fun to ride in the trails.......some motors after they are built wind up being no fun to ride. There are also some other things you should think of to put into your budget that people seem to forget.....such as pancake bearings, new water pumps, etc..........the little things can add up quick too....

okay....and no offense....but you must be young. You're not going to make it long in here with the "new age" (gay) texting style lingo. Its getting harder and harder for us to understand what the fuck people are talking about these days when they start smashing in some serious weird shit..... like cuz.....if your too lazy with a computer to type because ....your gonna hear it from a lot more people. Just giving you a heads up. Also....buy a clymers manual and you will get massive amounts of info from it. You could have a problem with a blocked line that is causing pressure to build up and spew tranny fluid out, or your seal on the side of the motor has taken a shit. Either way.....WASH your damn motor, and then let us know exactly where its leaking out. then we can help you more.

Could be a couple of things going on here.... 1) This is one of us running as a troll on the site.... 2) You fucked with your bike and aren't telling us cause now you realize you fucked up and we're going to make fun of you.... 3) You didn't fuck with anything and ran your bike hard without changing the jetting like you should when the weather gets colder. 4) or you had no idea what you were looking at and bought a terd from someone who said it was "the fastest bike around and rare"...... Either way....I bet you smoked one of your cylinders. A compression check would be the first test to do......it will tell you whether your motor is fucked or not.....within seconds of hooking everything up. Thread in end to spark plug hole......hold throttle WIDE OPEN.....and kick til the needle stops moving. You "should" be in the realm of 120-125 on a stock bike that has great compression. lower than 110 is where I draw the line and just rebuild the fucker. If its got an aftermarket head, or stock head with modified domes......then your compression should be higher than 125. Granted, there are differences based on temperature and elevation.

wait....aaron....what exactly does your bike have done to it? reason I ask is I ride a dune/play port from FAST and still run a stock tank and can easily go out for around 3 hours of hard/fast wide open trail riding. My buddy rides a 421 serval with a stock tank and also has no issues running for 3 hours...

pm camatv. I believe he still does them on the side.

do a leakdown test. it will ensure that your not detonating from being lean.... Then do another compression test. Make sure your holding the throttle all the way open and kick until that needle stops moving. If both those check out good.......grab your self a 6"x6" piece of plexi-glass, some greese, and a drill bit. Pull your domes. Drill a hole just off to the side of the center of the plexi-glass. Then put a spark plug in the dome and press it to the glass so that the drilled hole is semi near the sealed lip of the dome. Then fill with water until you can see that there is no air bubble AND that the water is not coming out from being too full. This is how you check the cc of a dome. Not doubting brandons abilities.....but we're all human and all make mistakes sometimes. Doubt its a problem from him.....that's why this is the last option.

With a port job you will also wind up with lower compression (as to make the power through port work you must lower the intake and exhaust ports) which will need to be compensated for. There are a few choices......you can go with a stock head and have it milled to increase the compression, or the better idea is to buy a cool head, which allows you to interchange different cc heads for more compression. The port job is the best bang for the buck......HOWEVER.....its not going to really work correctly unless you already have the normal bolt on beginning stuff such as pipes, filters, timing plate............don't get me wrong, it'll work without those.....however it will work FAR better with those mods.....

bingo tricked.....the average atv rider doesn't have a clue when it comes to what they should be doing for maintenance and how often if they're going to push the envelope that much

more cc's don't mean that you get more power out of the motor.......with 4 strokes yes......with 2 strokes......especially these motors, just by having port work done, these things will turn into entirely different beasts.

2 things first.... one .....if you are currently running a 15 on the front and only going 60....there is something wrong with your bike. Fix it and get jetting on that thing first. two...... There is no reason to go that fast in anything but a sanctioned drag race. Trust me....I get it....we all want to run our bikes hard as hell and see what it can do........but its not worth riskin your life over. And trust me....running down a country road at those speeds is risking your life. Yes yes....ive done it before. But that doesn't mean I warrant it anymore. Forget to tighten a hub bolt? Break a tie-rod? shear and axle? big pot hole? shear the wheel lugs? break a ball joint? Guess what.....if any of those things happen......your going to smoke a tree at 70-80 that your wishing to be going. At 70 mph......your dead when you smack that tree...... I know ill prob get flamed......but fuck it.....just want to get you to thinking of all the consequences before you do it. We already pay too much out of our own pocket to take care of moron kids who wind up brain dead from doing something COMPLETELY stupid.