Jereme6655

ba99 that is SWEET......if they were to ever legalize street riding here in Mi (which they wont do cause they're nothing but pricks or dumbasses that make the rules here) i know i'd definately have to find someone who is able to do that.......what'd you charge for that if you don't mind me asking?

i bet you that one of them was broken and that caught your eye so much that i bet you overlooked that the other one was bent...

i would say try and go up to a 30 pilot. Alot of bikes need a 27.5 for aftermarket pipes but there are a few guys on the HQ who's bikes need the 30's to run right. The problem is that there is no SET jetting for certain mods with a 2-stroke. Every 2stroke motor is just a little different.....so you could have a 320 and a 27.5 and i could build the exact same bike with the same mods and wind up runnin a 300 and a 25 pilot and be totally jetted correct. its just the way it rolls

problem is that with another closed area for threads on maintenance and stuff........your still gonna get the same people who haven't figured out how to use the search button posting stupid comments. or making new posts in different areas about a sticky that is already up trying to eliminate that. stupid people will always walk this planet.....its a shitty deal.

you could give jeff a call and ask him if the slighty amount of light would be the cause.....however i doubt it is. what is your pilot jet size?

to tell what carb bowl is currently on what carb.....look at the carb bowls......the one that is meant to go on the left (choke knob side) carb has a small brass ball on the outside of the bowl...

your frame and a-arm components will see WAY more abuse from the dirt rocks and typical stuff they're being ridden through than they could ever see from a little drop by mistake.

if you want to walk all over them then your for sure going to want to get your cylinders ported for that 4mill. it'll for sure wake that bike up. and advancing the timing will give you a little more grunt way down low in the power.....however it will also take away a little from your topside...

call a site sponsor to find that out.....they'll be able to get you CLOSE. or you can also just buy a section of it and add just that section to your chain.....its not the preferred way...but itll work

your riding between 800 and 2000ft? shit man.....your gonna need to do a jettin change between 800 and 2000. the hgiher in altitude you get the thinner the air is....meaning your pushing too much fuel at 2000 where you might have been perfect at 800. Try the 27.5 first. No 2-stroke motor is the same......but MOSTLY ALL of them perform way better with a 27.5 pilot when you put aftermarket pipes on. The plug chop goes like this........warm bike up on old plugs. Change out plugs and fire it up and run 1-6 gears wide open to the top end. Then pull the clutch in and kill the motor and coast to a stop. Then put in your old plugs....go home and chop the threads off of your test plugs. You want to see a ring approx. 2mm tall starting at the base of the spark-plug on the white insulator. And you want it to be a light milk choclate color. If its darker then its running rich and if its lighter colored then its running lean.

it connects the 2 carbs together and that is all. It is a little larger in diameter than the hoses on the T-fitting. The T-fitting that your seeing is your crank-case vent tubing. One end goes from the rear of the motor to the T and one goes to the right side of the motor (just in front of your brake) and they T together and go up towards your handle bars to keep fluid from coming out and water from goin in...

are you sure its coolant? if it is then also look around the head....there are a few holes i believe that can allow liquid to drain from the top of the engine cases through the holes and out the bottom of the motor.

yeah....blue angel has dropped it multiple times....everytime i had to swerve coming around a turn in the trails to avoid flattening it. haha....... Like he said.....we just put a WIDER hose clamp....not a larger diameter one. They fall off because of the force and leverage applied to them given their shapes. I do know some people have made metal brackets that go from the upper frame rails where the seat rests on down to the filter and have used a self-taping screw to fasten the filter to the bracket. Just make sure you don't try and use a small bolt with a nut on the inside of the filter.....it'll vibrate the nut loose and it'll end up in your top end doing the cha-cha tap dance on all of your shit.

The choke tube can be seen if you just take your seat off of your banshee. Like stated above its a little black tube that connects the center of the two carbs. Its purpose is to turn BOTH carb chokes on at the same time with the pull of only 1 lever. Its done using the tube, and when the tube is removed or forgot about it will cause one carb to be on full choke and the other carb to be completely unchoked.

yea you can run stock carbs....but you'll gain more by runnin larger carbs but you can wait to save money to replace them. yes you can run a stock head BUT you'll have to get one that is shaved (because you'll need to bump the compression back up after they alter the port timings) later you can run a coolhead if you'd like Andy at M&M will give you a break-in procedure and will suggest a jetting size for you to run .080 is pretty much the MAX that you can bore out to. You may want to think about possibly buyin some used cylinders like .20 over and getting those bored and ported your not missing anything unless you want to make more power....... like advance the timing or you can put reeds in it. AND you should send the crank out and get that trued and welded so that it doesn't come apart after you rebuild it and have it eat itself inside. and while you got the cases split you might as well do the do it yourself trans mods that are on the forums....

hey king.....most aftermarket pipes like a 27.5 pilot jet.

Give Jeff at F.A.S.T. a call and talk to him....he's a great guy. Tell him what you want it to do and he can make suggestions.......i'd also ask him about the new Serval cylinders. They are making 85-90hp on pump gas. And to answer your question about reliability.......any bike will run strong and reliable in the cold as long as its set up right (ie jetted correctly, tuned accordingly and running correct oil/fuel mixes)

from 87-89 the banshee had J-arm upper suspension arms....they are a little lighter and have slightly larger brake pads on different callipers.........from 89-present they have a-arm upper suspensions and different brake callipers featuring slightly smaller brake pads. Other than that there are not alot of differences in the 87 to say a 06. There are some MINOR changes such as the style wire connectors and what not.....and from 2002 and up they put brake lights into the rear light also. Things to look for are usually pretty easy to see.......such as bent steering stems or broken or cracked from around where the rear grab bar mounts to the frame. Remember...you can always replace a part without a problem. You should also set the bike up on the grab bar (so the front wheels are straight up in the air) and look at the bottom of the frame.....alot of the times you can see if the frame has been tweaked sideways from a really hard hit. Another thing to also ask the person your gonna be possilby purchasing from........when you set a time and date to look at the bike...ask them to not start it before your arrival. This will show you just how easy the bike will start when its really cold and will make the guy skitterish if he's one that has to use starting fluid to start it. You can touch the pipes and then touch the sides of the cylinders to check to see if the bike has been started and warmed up.....they should be cold to the touch..

The pistons being dirty is a normal thing for a 2-stroke motor.....its just carbon build up from the oil that your burning in your fuel....nothing to worry about with that. The reason you have a hole forming in the middle of on of your pistons is because your carbs are not tuned correctly....your running way lean and your motor is about to meltdown.....sorry for the bad news...but it looks like you gotta do a top end!

the wires that go up to the brake lever are for your parking brake switch. You can keep the parking brake and remove those wires.....its SUPPOSED to keep the bike from revving up while the parking brake is on. but usually what happens is the switch will go bad while your riding and then all the sudden you have no ability to go anywhere... just disconnect it...

and another tip of advice..... the guys on here will get pretty crabby if they see you making more than one post abou the same problem...... i know your problem is frustrating but we need a little bit of time to get through the basics about your bike. And 2 posts that are SUPER undescriptive are gonna make people real pissy around here. and since your other post said it took a long time for you to get it started makes me think even more that you didn't put the choke tube back in place between the carbs...

we need some more info on your bike....is it stock is it a Cub is it a Serval? Did you do any other mods to the bike while rebuilding it? How about the choke tube that goes between the two stock carbs?

the 513 at the begining is the wiseco 513 series pro-lite pistons........good pistons if they're installed right. correct the arrows point towards the exhaust side. and its still on its stock bore of 64.00 mm

well....to fix the problem with the throttle cable your probably gonna have to take the carbs off along with the throttle cable and take them into a warm house to get them thawed. As to it runnin away form you and not shuttin off even with the plug wires pulled......that's cause the thing ran lean. If you get an airleak (like your buddy probably has) it leans the hell outta the fuel mix which spikes the temp in the cylinders. When that happens your spark plug node gets so hot that it will actually ignite the fuel without even sparking. so basically your motor is doin its own thing......... you can kill it by starving the air outta it (holdin over the inlet of the air horns) or some have luck with stabbin the throttle to get the plug to cool down for a split second. but mostly what helps the most is the choke.... pull your buddies pipes off and the carbs and do a leakdown test before you tear the motor apart.....it will help you identify where the leaks are that caused your problems...

pull your carbs off and give them a good cleaning and then look and see what jet sizes are in it. My bike was doing that when i first bought it and it turned otu that the previous owner never put a larger pilot jet in the carbs to account for how much more my FMF FATTIES needed...