Jereme6655

stupid question.....but have the spark plugs been threaded into the cool head yet? Just a question as im wondering if the cool head dome are cut way off to what they are supposed to be or if maybe somehow you managed to get a bad set of threaded plugs....

your flux capaciter is tweaked.....

haha....we try and stick to the orv routes john...hahahhaa.....BUT we have come across "some" mud.....but we try to avoid it....or pick spots where the mud and water isn't gonna hammer up hard enough to get to our carbs....bahahahahaha

it really doesn't matter too much. you may notice 1-2 lbs difference if you were to do it while its warm......however as it sits now your 15 lbs BELOW where most of us would normally tell you to start thinkin of a rebuild (110 psi). So basically it doesn't matter....your gonna wind up having to do a rebuild. If you keep pushing it the way your running now it will continue to run however eventually your compression will get so low that you will need to pull start your banshee behind something else and you will not be able to shut it down unless your willing to pull start it on the trails. And it can cause more damage internally as parts will wear faster from excessive piston slap. So just do the right thing and check into a rebuild. Im pretty sure you can find a rebuild kit from one of our site sponsors for around $180 dollars including seals and then you just need to pay for the bore from them. Jereme

and welcome to the BHQ buddy! Your gonna find alot of useful info in this site....so set your mind to absorb mode and let it suck up all our useful knowledge!!

welcome to the world of stock banshee carbs......unfortunately that is a normal occurance for the stock mikuni carbs that are on the banshees. you can try completely different carbs like a flat-side carb. Or you can tell your friend to stay out of the water and mud as banshee's were more built for dunes and trail riding...

if you only have 95psi in each cylinder then you DEFINATELY are in for a rebuild! It will restart easier because of the heat that is still in the pistons adn rings....they swell a little with heat and help seal the compression....but not much. Anythiing less than 110 and she's gonna run real sluggish and be a pain to start. If you take about a teaspoon of oil and put it down the sparkplug hole and do a compression test right away it should read with more compression....this is another way to test that it is just in need of a rebuild. Was the plastic piece semi circular and white? if so it gets a splash guard that gets put in the carb UNDER the main jet... ie you have to put it in place and then the main jet screws into its hole holdng the plastic piece in. I've seen the bikes run without them....however you should put them back in.....it helps for the splashing and also spaces the main jets out to the correct distance from the carb sorta like a washer. Id suggest sendign your jugs out to a site-sponsor as they eat sleep and breathe these bikes.......and they have all the stuff you need on their shelves and can get you the rebuild kits WAY cheaper than you could at most local shops... Jereme

as said they are both good.....however i sent mine to Jeff at FAST.....amazing service and a decent turn around time too. He had my jugs back to me in about 2 weeks and i coudln't be happier. Send your jugs out to either of them and let THEM do the boring and get you a piston kit also. They can get you a better price on pistons than most shops out there and will have EVERYTHING in stock to do them. Plus that way they can do the porting also instead of having to have the jugs going out to another shop.

yea that's fine.

i think heath's talking about like if we he ran an ice race while wearing a BHQ hoodie....and won and the local newpaper took a picture of him and put it in the paper. Does he gotta tell them they can't print it, or do they have to pay royalties or can they have legal action taken because the trademark wasn't approved by you to be in a photo?

Definately get yourself a clymers manual. its worth its weight in gold. A plug chop is what is done to get jetting dialed in perfect. It bases the readings off of BRAND NEW spark plugs as your fuel will form a carbon ring on the little white porceolin piece of a new spark plug. in order to do a plug chop.....you need to start your bike up and warm it up on the used plugs that are already in it. then remove those plugs and install new plugs and as soon as you start the bike up run it up to full speed through all 6 gears. When you top out, you need to pull the clutch in and hit the kill switch and coast to a stop....then install the OLD plugs that had you warmed the bike up on and ride home. Cut the threads off of the new spark plugs and look at the white insulator. You want to see a milk choclate colored ring about 2mm tall starting from the base. If its darker then your bike is running rich......if its a lighter color than milk choclate then your bike is running too lean. hope this helps...

id probably say to start around a 280 also....if it seems to have a small problem starting from a stop or if it seems to stumble then you're going to need to jump the pilot jet up to a 27.5 just make sure you do a plug chop to make sure that your jetting is spot on...

oh yea....and i forgot to mention....please try and type out words rather than use thigns like 2 or h8 or crap like that..... it gets annoying and makes you seem rather juvenile.... im not complaining to make you feel bad.....and im sorry if i am.....that's not my intentions. But you WILL get more answers (see.....not ancers <-- that just looks stupid) if you type things out correctly. its not that difficult.....hell its only one extra key stroke to spell out the word to. thanks...... sorry again for the rant

hilarious is totallly right. ANYtime you change somethign that has to deal with exhaust and intake you need to rejet. if you don't you can actually cause premature wear (if your lucky) and if your not lucky....you can actually run it so lean that it will have a meltdown and cause you to wind up walking home...

it sounds like you may need a new light......but i would also take apart the headlight switch and check the connections and check for corrosion inside of that. Could be starting to corrode and cause electrical issues

see guys....we just had another guy do it again.......total of 15 posts on his account and he's starting a new thread in the GENERAL DISCUSSION forum asking if anyone has anything for sale.....wow.... maybe you should check the "FOR SALE" section..... holy crap bomb....... it really is a "i want the answer now and i don't wanna do the work for it" era... shit.

i agree with both sides here......i think some have started to give less than great instructions on how to solve problems HOWEVER.....i think that it is because of the newer younger crowd that is now trying to fix things and instead of wanting to go through the work, they are used to and still want to just have it instantly fixed without the joy\entertainment\frusttrations that come along with trouble-shooting.......which is how you learn. i also do find it annoying when the same titles keep coming up...... help! wont run.... or jetting.... or is this right?.... I think Larry's shee is right though......YES the search option is less than desired.....however it WILL bring up the info you need.....you just need to look for the right answer a little deeper sometimes.....more than just glancing at the first 3 posts and getting mad because its not right there. TO THE YOUNGER CROWD: Yes there are still some of us around here that WANT to help you. And we will help you......if YOUR willing to help out also. If your looking for an answer and expect to just turn a screw and have the motor completely fixed....it wont be. We need you to understand that you WILL need to get your hands dirty and you WILL occasionally need to say "sorry guys...can't go riding right now.....gotta tear the motor down and fix the problem." Some problems need a little bit of R & R to come to a conclusion as to what is wrong.....some are just sitting there in front of you and the answer is slapping the shit outta you. Im sorry if this is a little bit of a rant for you..... And if your a younger crowd individual who HAS found this offensive.....then you are one of the crowd that was raised stuck on your mama's tit too long and needs to be introduced to the world of reality.....sometimes you need to drop your purse....attach your nuts to where they belong and get your hands dirty. BESIDES....you may actually find that you actually enjoy it.

advancing your timing +4 degrees will help your low end however it will take away just a little from your top end. Running a smaller dome and higher octane fuel will give you more compression. if your spinning on launch with 8 blade paddles and in 2nd......you need a little more practice...or new paddles. Some paddles are just absolutely junk and dont' do shit.....but if i were you i'd try to continue to launch in 2nd but moving weight back just a little to gain more traction... (ie you want to practice until you can find that certain point on the bike where it wants to hoist the front end....however you don't want it to come completely up....that'll cost you launch when you have to feather the throttle\clutch to get the front down. What you want is to find that spot where it just BARELY want to hoist the front wheels......then move your butt about an in FORWARD......just enough weight on the front to keep her down but still enough weight on the back to keep her from over-slipping the rear paddles....

So...did you have it honed out? Did you have it bored out? my questions is how did you do a full REBUILD if your running new STOCK sized pistons. if your running stock sized pistons then i doubt it got bored out....which means that even though you have new stock pistons in there...your cylinders are going to have a natural wear curve in the jugs. It happens to every single cylinder.....it winds up having a very very very slight egg shape to it....you can only tell by meausring it with a micrometer.....but boring it is what removes the shape and brings the jug back to correct shape...which in turns helps with compression by replacing the pistons with correct new bore sized pistons. Sounds to me like your a little low because your rebuilt with stock sized pistons. Either way if you have 115 id still run the shit outta it...

definately use the soapy water to find any leaks. when i assemebled mine i was losing .5-1 psi every 10 minutes and it just had me a little worried. (even though my builder told me that you could run it perfectly fine like this) So i started working with the soapy water.....trust me....when you find the leak you'll know. Mine was another overlooked one.......it wound up being a leak in one of the sparkplug washers.....i hadn't tightened them enough to create a good seal. After i tightened it a little i did another leakdown.....held 6psi for over 3 hours...

they sell adaptors to hold the filter on while the lid is off....or you can just trash the whole box and get yourself some pod filters for the carbs.... or if your just looking at modifiying the air box for free then you can actually take a drill and drill a series of pretty large holes into the airbox...that way your lid stays on which still hold the filter in place but allows ALOT more air to flow in...

matt is exactly right when he says that everyone is going to tell you that their sponsor is better. TRUTH IS both of these guys are well known in the ATV world as outstanding builders. I haven't dealt with Kevin at HJR......but i have dealt with Jeff at F.A.S.T. I can tell you that jeff is a real nice well spoken down to earth guy. I liked how FAST and the shop employees handled business (ie...i got a phone call to verify that they received my cylinders and crank). They asked me a real quick description of what i was lookin to get outta the bike and i told them and he informed me that Jeff would be calling me in the next few days to personally talk to me to get a feel for what i was looking for so that he could port my cylinders exactly to what i was looking for......shit it wasn't even 4 hours later when he called me....and it was evening time for him and his friends were over hanging out while he was on the phone with me getting a description of what i wanted the bike to do.......that to me shows dedication. turn around time from jeff was about 2 weeks and that was for both welding my crank and porting my cylinders i was really impressed when jeff offered to ship me back my crank (he called me 2 days after they received my parts because he completed the work on it) to see if i wanted it back so that i would be able to start reassembly on the low-end of the motor while i waited for the cylinders to be ported. really an outstanding guy.... Jereme

haha....way to go larry....i like your mind set

Do they stop mud? yes. Do they still let mud through to cover you? yes. Do you still wind up getting off of your quad dirty and requiring a shower and a good clothing wash? yes.... It doesn't really matter too much......some people will say it doesn't stop that much....but honestly it depends alot too on what kinda mud it is.......if its REAL wet and liquidy mud then its all over you no matter what. If its real sticky thick mud....then you might notice a SMALL amount of deflection from the fenders...

Try this......go find one of your ladies good friends who knows/has a manual tranny car and see if she'll try and show her. Problem is our women get frustrated tryin to learn from us because they feel pressured cause WE want to see them ride. They want to but they also don't want to let us down so its alot of pressure on them (or at least they think) i agree with jbookers on the LTZ400. I own both a banshee and a 2004 ltz400 and i have to say that the z400 is a PERFECT starter quad and still a formidable quad when your experience level grows. I've taight a few different people how to ride the ltz400 and they all wind up saying the same thing.....this isn't hard at all! My buddy is now planning on getting his wife a z400 because of how impressed he is with mine. she's got really bad back problems but she don't mind riding the z400......and the clutches that are on them are REALLY smooth and easy to pull/control even for the smallest of women. I still hop on mine quite a bit and every single time im still amazed at how great it actually rides. You can come into a turn WAY too hard or with horrible technique and where other quads would create REALLY hairy situations that would make your ass pucker.....the z400 just bares down hard and takes it. you can push it too hard into the turn and the suspension on it will make it very very easy to save it or correct mid-turn so that you can exit safely. I plan on teaching my little woman to ride this spring summer and she's going to be taking over my z400. She's 120 lbs and im not going to have any worries about weather she can learn.....