Jereme6655

well from the looks of it and the story.....id say that your buddy didn't have it jetted correctly.. so i believe it may have been run lean and torched the rings. 2-strokes need to be jetted correctly (or even just a little rich) as they will meltdown when running lean. Also unless you have the carbs dialed in EXACTLY.....then running 2-strokes wide open is not a great idea. i can't tell from the picture but are those little dimples starting to form in the darker colored pistons? usually they are the same color.....there is definately something goin on in there.......either something went bad on that dark cylinder or something like a head gasket popped and the coolant on that shiny piston is why its so clean. but honestly without seeing it more then i'd GUESS that its probably only a top end issue and a simple rebuild would fix it. just make sure you do a leak down test to make sure its not going to lean itself out when you first ride it. 2-strokes are honestly super easy to wrench on.....hell sometimes i think i could teach a monkey to do it.......yea....its that easy to assemble and disassemble...

did you soak your clutch fibers in your trans fluid BEFORE you installed them into the clutch pack like you were supposed to?

hey special......its a piece of cake. When you go to do that pancake bearing you will see the shift star in there......its literally just a machine screw holding it on. it has a pin also to align it and hold it in a specific spot while its on its shaft. just pull the screw (just make to try not and strip it) and pull the star out. Then round down the points on the stars.......there's a write-up on doing it....its super super easy. Then put it back on its shaft and align the pin and screw it back down.......done.

gotta-gofast has a good point.....it really could be that you torched teh rings chances of seating right. Why can't you do the work yourself? Did they just do the work to the cylinders or did they do the ENTIRE rebuild and reassembly?

your bike also have a parking brake limiter.....it kills the bike when you put it in gear with the parking brake on ..........some people have problems with the switch so they just cut the wires to the parking brake which solves the problem.....that's why yours has been cut. its no big deal

it almost sounds to me that you have either an airleak or your carb is WAY lean... A lean condition will actually cause the engine to rev HIGHER......and since its lean it will actually cause a meltdown. You should really do a leakdown test to see whether you need to fix a leak or whehter you need to do a plug-chop and richen up your jetting in your bike.

yes the mikuni carbs just hate water that much.....the TORS system is meant to sense when your carbs stick that a certain throttle range but your throttle gets released.......this will limit the ignition so that it goes basically into a "limp-in" mode.......so you can at least get SOMEWHERE. Alot of people have problems with the TORS systems....so they usually remove them. However yours seems to be working correctly.........since you went through water and it held the bike from going WOT into the trees with you on it...haha. IF it really freaking out you can actually just unplug the little black box as mentioned earlier (under gas tank left side of bike) and leave it unplugged and it will just disable the tors system. And yes the screw on top of the TORS system IS for adjusting your throttle. If you do decide to remove your TORS then you have to get the kit which will include a new throttle cable, carb caps and also idle screws (since your current idle screws are mounted on the TORS unit) You'll have to take the carbs off and then drill out and tap a certain hole (in a boss on the carb) and then tap it so that you can thread the idle screw in so that you can actually have an idling banshee...

yes trans fluid can effect it that much......if it used to be atf type F that you were using it is pretty thin.........then you step up to a way thicker 10w-40 and its that much thicker when its cold so it can drag on alot of parts. Its not BAD for your stuff.....it just changes the charecteristics of your bikes performance somewhat. also it could be how you adjusted your carbs. and a leakdown will not show you if your going to leak trans fluid. it will only show you if your going to leak pressure form the cylinder ENGINE CASE. where as the transfluid that your talking about is on the outside of the engine case and leaking from the clutch.

yes the cable can actually still move even if the slide is stuck....that's why the TORS boxes were mounted to the top of the carbs and the micro switch was in the thumb throttle.. The tors monitored if the SLIDE was up and if the micro switch was/wasn't activated.

if it starts to rev up naturally on its own then you have an air leak somewhere and it is sucking in air which is leaning the HELL outta your motor. If you dont' find that air leak and fix it then you will wind up melting down your motor REAL soon

at first i was kinda worried matt..... tellin us your gettin married and then tellin us all that you been with a guy for a couple months now.... bahahaha......but no seriously man.....congrats on gettin hitched. and have a good time on your honeymoon......although i doubt that your going to see very much other than then inside of your room...haha <---- to you and the new woman

i can't remember which head it is for....but i do know that some members wind up having to use a little bit of sealant before they run the nuts on....

you can also pull the choke. if the motor goes from a high rev/free rev situation to a more of a normal running idle then you do have an air leak. You can also find the air leak (as long as its not TOO big of a leak) by spraying some starting fluid or carb cleaner around all your gaskets/possible leak areas.....if the motor changes speeds then you definately found your spot. The tester is REALLY cheap to make......hell its cheaper than $15 if you still have the stock carbs. i found that you don't need to extend the pvc tubes like they show on the write ups.......you can actually use just a 3/4" pvc end cap (the round ones) and they fit almost perfect into the carb boots......so there's no need to be gluing or buying any straight pipe pvc....just mount your stuff to the caps. i also found that to make sure you have an accurate reading (some of those air tire guages can be alittle hard to read sometimes) you can us a digital air guarge on the valve stemt that you installed.....it works pretty well and also makes for a good check between the mechanical guage and the ditigal...

and practice practice practice! Alot of guys that you see racing in the 1/8 strips will tell you that when its that short, the launch has ALOT to do with time. It may take you quite a few trips before you can figure out how to launch your banshee on the strip to maximize speed and minimize wheel lift. Alot of guys who do dirt drags will often mention that they launch in 2nd leanin forward to keep from having to feather the throttle or grab a footful of break to keep the front from comin up too hard...

well.....its either your vitos internals (some have had good luck...but alot have had bad luck) or it could be too small of a pilot jet in your carbs.... pull your carbs apart and look and make sure the correct slides are in the correct carbs......and that the right bowls are on the right carbs. AND check to see what size your pilot is......most aftermarket pipes like to have (some need to have) extra fuel way down low so you have to jump your pilots to a 27.5

umm...banshee and limited budget don't go together in the same sentence......like saying "safe" and "grenade with the pin pulled and spoon dropped" in the same sentence

one of the most common problems is jetting issues. have you modified the motor with any new parts or new port jobs? That will affect jetting and could cause a hard start if you don't replace the jets with larger ones. The other common problem is the choke tube. The tube is a little black rubber tube that goes between the carbs and is what is used to engage the choke on the right side carb... if its missing you MIGHT be able to get it to start and run but it's gonna be a while before it starts....

you have any snowmobile or motorcycle shops around you? or you can order them from our site sponsors....they can defiantely get you teh jets you need...

shit.....look slike its time to either just ditch the TORS or you can also temporarily throw some chaulk or some sealant to goop up those holes...

but did you put the choke tube back in? and also you NEED to get that pilot up to a 27.5......it will run like shit with those fmf's on it unless you bump up the compression and it will also help the starting issues....

well.....it feels better knowing the inside of the cases and what's done to it doesn't it? if it were me i'd send that crank out quick like to get it welded up.....at least then it'll be off your mind when you go to squeeze that thumb throttle in hard next time...`

stupid question.....but you are installing the springs correctly right? as in not putting all the stiff springs next to each other? they need to be offset....... don't take offense.....ive seen people goof out of just natural habit....hell ive seen pros install stuff and look and go "oh shit" as they hold a bolt that goes WAY down in hte motor...

yep....you can have extra weld done to an already welded crank...

id be kinda nervous about doing that. For one i wouldn't want to chance them ever coming loose way out on a trail and leaving me stranded somewhere.....and second im not sure what it would do to the stock balancing of the flywheel.......id hate to see you lose a crank early because of a little bit of off weightness

also it has happened (not everytime to every crank...just seems to be more random than anything) that since the cranks are pressed together crankshafts they can seperate and wind up digging the side of the crank into your cases...